I am building a 383 and need some new rods(5.7"). I have read they need to be ground to clear the cam. Some say yes, some say no. So before I buy, if they need more room what needs to be ground? Thanks, Alex

Factory type rods need to have the side of the rod bolts ground at a 45deg angle to clear the cam. You will also have to grind the oil pan rails.

yep what he said take it you a machine shop to be ground

What they said, althoiugh you can grind them yourself ifn ya know how. There needs to be at least .060 between any moving parts.

You should be able to buy a set pre-clearanced for that application.

TEX

Thanks guys. I thought you would have to do something. I'll look into how much it would be to grind them compared to a set already done.

Well they are $430 from GM already done. So, I noticed the rods with ARP bolts are already angled. How much more would they need? Thanks, Alex

So, I noticed the rods with ARP bolts are already angled.

No matter what you do for rods, use the ARP bolts. It's a no brainer.

Yeah, I was planning on it. I just wondered how much more needs to come off. Thanks

http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/perfparts/images/parts/large/12497624_large.jpg

12497624 Connecting Rod 383 ci The rod is machined to clear the camshaft in most small-block stroked type engines.
Connecting rod set of 8 rods - P/N 12497870

Pace Chevrolet will sell you a set of these for $363.25.

No messin' around with grindin' bolts, put em' in and go.

If my computer was working I would scan you the pic...but I'll just have to describe it to you.

The rod bolt needs to be ground so that when measuring from the ID of the big end to the 45deg angle on the rod bolt it needs to be less then .375". Make sence? If not just take it in and have it done...or if you want to see the pic it is in David Vizard's "how to build chevy small blocks on a budget" vol.3.

So does the .375" go to the middle of the 45? If so I can probably do it. I could just have my brother do it too, He is a machinest. :)

No...it is the maximum from the ID of the big end to anywhere on the bolt head when measured perpendicular to the ID (i.e. in line with the center point of the big end). The angle doesn't have to be 45...just eyeballed.

I've built several of these engines,each one has required different amounts of clearancing on the rods and blocks. I would put the bottom half together minus rings and set each rod to the proper clearance.

So if I grind these bolts down, How much strength am I going to loose? Is that ever an issue? Thanks, ALex

I've never seen the bolt bolt break at the head even with it ground to clearance it. Most of the 383's I have put together were drag/mud race motors. I have seen these things take a real beating when the tune up on the nirtous gets out of hand.