: High Steer and wheelbackspacing


WheelingPiazza
01-17-2002, 05:48 PM
I finally got part of my highsteer installed and I am running into a bit of an issue..

It seems the tierod ends are hitting the tire, So I am going to need new rims

Has anyone ran into this and if so what backspacing did you end up going to.. I think my rims are a 3.5 backspacing..

The fronts a Dana 44.

http://wheelingpiazzas.com/pictures/Hy%20Steer/DCP00531.JPG

The Jerk
01-17-2002, 05:53 PM
well u can get what ever size back spacing you need, so its what ever you need to clear the TRE. then order your wheels from somewhere. jiMMy

The Jerk
01-17-2002, 05:55 PM
guess i shoulda let teh pic load teh first time, lol, anyhow, who made those arms? usually d 44 hy steer arms are kicked inward an inch or more to acomidate for this. yours look stright ahead, sucky! jiMMy

WheelingPiazza
01-17-2002, 06:11 PM
Ben W from the international page made the arms and spacers..

No big thing, Just requires me to either get spacers or new rims.

I was just wondering what others were running with this type of arm..

CJ-Jeeper
01-17-2002, 06:51 PM
It looks like the tire has a lot of sidewall bulge on that rim. Maybe a wider rim with the same backspace would decrease the bulge & solve your problem? I can't really tell how much clearance you have to the rim.

Ben W
01-17-2002, 07:12 PM
Damn, that's a bummer Steve. If you want, I can build some arms that are angled in more, and swap you. Email me if you want to go that route.

ChadLloyd
01-17-2002, 07:32 PM
I believe BillaVista had the same problem on his 44/30 hybrid (44 knuckles, same idea). He went to less backspacing in combination with the rod mounted under the high arm, I think. There's a certain TRE that has an S bend in it so that even though it is mounted below the arm the rod itself ends up more or less even with the arm. Let us know if you're interested, I'm sure either Bill or myself can dig up the part number. Only problem with this TRE is that it is 3/4-16, rather than 7/8-18 like most.

When I made mine I angled the arm inward on more of an angle so it wasn't as much of a problem. I used the S TREs mainly for clearance around the spring packs.

CHOKEu
01-17-2002, 07:34 PM
The axle looks good Steve! Now go catch some rabid dogs or domesticated chipmunks!:D :D :p

REDDMANIAC
01-17-2002, 10:30 PM
Ive seen some wheel spacer @ PepBoys. Id try them 1st as they are inexpensive. Doesnt look like youd need much tho. Just till you can get your hands on a permanent fix.

BillaVista
01-18-2002, 04:09 AM
Had the exact same problem.

Went to 3" BS to solve it. Measure yours carefully to check.

Many pics and ideas and part numbers at:

http://billavista.tripod.com/Steering/Index/SteeringIndex.html

Bob
01-18-2002, 07:31 AM
sell those arms and get the some that fit

RustoleumWhite
01-18-2002, 07:41 AM
I thought you were useing Ford outers? or are you using the Scout hubs?

I was running into the same problem, and ben made up some twisted in arms for me. Running Scout hubs. The Ford hubs should give you some more clearance.

Or wheel spacers, thats where I was thinking to avoid new rims just yet... if you can get them cheap (I've seen $200 for a set :eek:) New rims would be cheaper them...

WheelingPiazza
01-18-2002, 09:18 AM
Gee thanks bob.. ANYWAYS..


I am going to look at pepboys today and see what they have for spacers. If I cant find the spacers I am going to order new rims with a 2 inch backspacing which should fix the problem

I am running Chevy outters.

GloNDark
01-18-2002, 09:24 AM
Summit has those 1/4" spacers as well. Doesn't look like you need that much. That may do it for you. They are like $12.

afecko
01-18-2002, 10:08 AM
I drilled my flattops special to have the exact situation you have, it achieves propoer ackermann angles. 15x8's with 3.5" bs clear just fine for me with 35" MTR's.

Maybe I'm wierd for wanting to attain proper ackermann, but why not do it right the first time?

Scruubing tires on the street leads to pretty quick tread cupping....

Andy

WheelingPiazza
01-18-2002, 10:15 AM
I dont understand your post.

Your saying you drilled your flattops identical to mine?

With 3.5 backspacing at the rims yours clear the arms?

I just got off the phone with 4 wheelparts,

60 a rim, 15X8 2 icnh back spaced rims 2 months wait

OUCH!!!

Tony Sobrito
01-18-2002, 10:26 AM
are your lug nuts snug in the pics?
are your balance weights hitting the arm?
try the wheel spacers, and try stick on weights inside the rim if they are hitting the arm.
i had the same prob a few yrs ago with dynatrac arms on gm knuckles with scout hub and rotor but it was so bad had to get a new arm.

WheelingPiazza
01-18-2002, 10:34 AM
Lug nuts are tight in the picture,

The wheel weights are not hitting

I am going to try the spacers and go from there..

Eric
01-18-2002, 10:42 AM
I have some 3.125" BS 6 lug rims on my Cruiser that you can try to see if they fit your steering. Let me know.

GloNDark
01-18-2002, 10:56 AM
Originally posted by WheelingPiazza
Lug nuts are tight in the picture,

The wheel weights are not hitting

I am going to try the spacers and go from there..
Here is a pic of the ones from summit

RoCkSkuLLz
01-18-2002, 11:02 AM
mine was doing the same thing. I called performance wheel something or other and ordered some 1.25" spacers.

tsm1mt
01-18-2002, 01:50 PM
Originally posted by WheelingPiazza
I finally got part of my highsteer installed and I am running into a bit of an issue..

It seems the tierod ends are hitting the tire, So I am going to need new rims

Has anyone ran into this and if so what backspacing did you end up going to.. I think my rims are a 3.5 backspacing..


What if you removed the spacer block under the arm and mounted it directly to the knuckle instead.

That would bring the TRE down inside the rim again instead of hitting the rubber..

WheelingPiazza
01-18-2002, 02:00 PM
True that would, but it would also put the Tie Rod right into the spring.

the spacers give the arms enough clearance to clear the springs.

tsm1mt
01-18-2002, 02:08 PM
Originally posted by WheelingPiazza
True that would, but it would also put the Tie Rod right into the spring.

the spacers give the arms enough clearance to clear the springs.

Would it really be that bad if you put the arm back down on the knuckle, then reamed the taper from the BOTTOM and ran the tie-rod just UNDER the springs (as I think someone else suggested)

you could go with the offset TREs if you really want the extra bit of clearance.. and if you're using a 7/8" shank TRE you could drop down the 3/4" and using a slightly smaller diameter tie-rod tube..

I'm kind glad I went with just the high draglink and stock tie-rod for the time being. :D Even more so with my Checker lifetime warranty on the tie rod. ;)

Maybe i'll just plan on putting the tie-rod under the springs on my trail rig.

WheelingPiazza
01-18-2002, 02:20 PM
Thanks for the suggestions..

I really like where the TieRod is located right now.. but I will do what it takes to get it fixed..

At this point I am going to try and work around what I have, If not I will figure somethign out.. You know anytime you build a new rig with custom parts theres always one or two little thigns that pop up..

I am sure I will figure it out.

vova
01-18-2002, 02:20 PM
Steve, i have wheel spacers on my truck that you can try out if it's the same 6-lug :) You can also try my rim with 2"BS, before you buy. 2" BS is a lot:eek:
e-mail or call me...

Eric Ruhl
01-18-2002, 02:28 PM
Don't change the backspacing Steve, that sucks for turning (dragging the tire thru a larger arc), also harder on bearings / ball joints. Looks like Ben is willing to make an exchange for arms that work for you, I suggest taking him up on the offer. FWIW I'm running 3.5" BS on 10" wide rims and 15.5 SX's and you've seen the clearance I have. As mentioned above, most hi-steer arms are angled inward for just this reason. Don't sweat the ackerman.