Bead rollers

[Sapper]

Just curious what people are using for bead rollers and what if anything you would change about the ones you have.

[fj40guy]

What size and thickness of tubing?

For some FUEL LINE, I had some 3/8" aluminum line. Needed a nice little bead in the end, just enough to help retain a fuel line from slipping off once clamped.

Ended up making up a tool. Basically a metal rod that dropped down into the tube, with a snug fit. Drilled that metal rod for a 1/4" metal rod, with a sharp tip at the end (bevel). Then drilled an intersecting hole in the 3/8" diameter rod to fit a 3/16" ball bearing into it. As the center rod pushed down, the ball bearing was force out. To get the center rod to force the ball bearing out, I tapped the hole for a 1/4" hex screw.

Take the "about 3/8" diameter" shaft. Weld a nut on to it. (so I could get a wrench on the thing). Drop the center shaft in... just start the threaded 1/4" nut. Now slide the bearing into the hole. Slide down into the tube. The nut keeps the thing from sliding too far into the tube. Little oil. Tighten the 1/4" screw (forcing the bearing into the side of the tubing to have a bead). Turn a couple of times. Tighten, turn, so on... nice little bead when left.

Seems possible to make something like this for larger tubing. Found all sort of good "tool material" when taking apart some scrap transmissions. Never built a large tool, only the one for fuel line.

Tom :usa:

[PTSchram]

Um, bead roller... Sheet metal fabrication or tubing bending?

I have a poor excuse for a bead roller.

Buy the biggest one you can afford with the deepest throat you can afford.

The instant you begin to use it, you will find it won't really roll the gauge of metal the ads said, the shearing rollers don't, the flange rollers don't do a real 90' and the beads are too weak to really do the job you want.

If you're gonna use it for one job, you might get away cheap. If you're gonna do anything approaching production, get a good one with adjustable roller pressure and power feed otherwise, you need at least one helper to feed material as you turn the crank and eat your wheaties as the crank is a bitch to turn with anything of any size at all.

Yes, I wish I'd bought a better one.

Similar comments apply to sheetmetal brakes. (I'm shopping for new for both now!)

Peace,
PT

[Sapper]

I was refering to a sheet metal bead roller.

So the basics to look for then are;
1. Deep throat
2. Adjustable roller pressure
3. Ability to add power
4. ??

Anything else to add. I have been looking at a few of them and I was hoping to get some input on what people have now and what they like/dislike about them.

[camo]

here is the real deal

http://www.irvansmith.com/catalog2/parts/bead_roller_electric.shtml

[MiniMog]

Camo you like the electric rollers? Man I can't get used to them, I use a home made hand roller with a groovy (ya I said groovy) steering wheel as the crank...

Heres an example of the work it does

[camo]

my buddy has that electric one in his shop. i have only made some practice peices on it and yes it takes some getting used to but it is the one i plan on getting for my new shop.

[66CJdean]

http://www.fournierenterprises.com/videocov.htm
This place has a badass one and showes some different rolls for it. This is a bitchen site for this sort of thing.

[lish189]

Anyone know where you can get a manual bead roller? Websites, company names, recomendations, etc...??

[Navajo1]

I ended up with the model 2 from pro-tools. It is a not to expensive alternative to the cheapo HF versoins, made of very heavy steel with quality parts. Went with it because they offer a ton of dies, it has a 24" throat, and can be upgraded to electric once I learn and am comfortable using it. The same model with the electric motor is called the model 3 if I remember right.

I also bought it in the kit form. It was shipped un-assembled and in raw steel so we had to weld it together and paint it. Saved a $100 doing it that way, plus it was nice to see how everything goes together in case I ever need to trouble shoot a problem.

With that and my new 6 foot brake I have no more excuses to finish my interior the right way. :D

[Foxfab]

Any thoughts on the mitler brothers electric roller?


http://www.mittlerbros.com/Beadroller.htm

I'm looking to do a 2" bead to try and replicate the factory floors. Or should I do a 1" step and flip the piece over to do the other side?

[Foxfab]

bueller?

[MiniMog]

Personally I couldn't get used to an electric, to me it seemed like it was a race to finish the piece ...I don't know how to explain it...kinda like it was on and moving and you wanted to keep it moving. With a manual I kinda felt more in control if you don't like something you can slow down or stop change position behind the work.

I could be a crack head but I like manual because I am doing the work.

As for the floors what kind of detail you going for? I would lay out the bead on the piece do one side and then the other but thats just me.