Any one know if you have to remove the spindle nut to remove the rotors on a D44HD in My 200 4by:question:

Thanks much.

Originally posted by ComputerCowboy
Any one know if you have to remove the spindle nut to remove the rotors on a D44HD in My 200 4by:question:

Thanks much.

200 4x. Don't know. But in my scout D44 front axle you do. Or, I suppose you could beat the rotor off the hub without removing the hub, but it would be pretty difficult. And you probably would damage the hub/bearings trying....?

Any ideas on where i could get a spindle nut socket to fit my Dana 44HD? I've seen "Universal" Spindle nut sockets but they work like an insde out easy out. I could get it off but would kinda goober up my nuts, and we don't want that now do we. and i havent seen any other brands that would look like they fit.

I could goober 'em up then replace them with chebby or furd ones...maybe

thanks for the insight

Originally posted by ComputerCowboy
Any ideas on where i could get a spindle nut socket to fit my Dana 44HD? I've seen "Universal" Spindle nut sockets but they work like an insde out easy out. I could get it off but would kinda goober up my nuts, and we don't want that now do we. and i havent seen any other brands that would look like they fit.

I could goober 'em up then replace them with chebby or furd ones...maybe

thanks for the insight

What kind of spindle nut do you have? Do they have holes in the face, requiring a spanner wrench, or slots in the flat sides? If they have slots in the flat sides, I bought a socket that fits on from NAPA. For the other kind, you can make a spanner wrench to fit.

Originally posted by ComputerCowboy
Any ideas on where i could get a spindle nut socket to fit my Dana 44HD? I've seen "Universal" Spindle nut sockets but they work like an insde out easy out. I could get it off but would kinda goober up my nuts, and we don't want that now do we. and i havent seen any other brands that would look like they fit.

I could goober 'em up then replace them with chebby or furd ones...maybe

thanks for the insight

It's probably the "spanner" type nut that Pat talked about.

Should be a "one size fits pretty much all" socket at NAPA and elsewhere

The socket is a spanner socket. Big round socket with 4 tabs on the end.

I haven't torn down my Travelall front end yet, but I used the socket on a Chevy D44 and an F150 with good success.

My 200HD is a 2wd. :(

if its like they said: a round nut with 4 - 1/4"X1/4" notches out of the sides, then yes, common tool found at most parts stores. Used on GM and Ford front axles as well. Usually around $10.

If your really in a pinch, you can use the hammer and screw-driver method. Then just file the burs out before you re-install. Works, but the "proper tool" is better.

early 3/4T Chevys (probably other) used a larger hex nut (larger than the Scout/Jeep version). Hammer may be the best method for that, sockets can be hard to find and $$.

hmm, are you replacing a bad rotor?? Have you found one?? Last I heard they were made of un-obtainium, which equeled high-costium.

You might be better converting knuckles out (or spindles out, depending on how 3/4T IH's are done) with a 3/4T Ford or Chevy... better parts availiblity.

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite

hmm, are you replacing a bad rotor?? Have you found one?? Last I heard they were made of un-obtainium, which equeled high-costium.


The 3/4T 4x4 are still available.. "only" $250 each (which, from my research, is about the rate for Dana 60 front rotors..)

The 2wd 3/4T rotors just don't exist at "any" price (aside from a buddy with a milling machine, a block of steel, and nothing better to do..)

Thanks for the assistance

and now on to conquer this project and weep when i get the bill

I found the rotors at the Scout Connection in Ft. Madison IA for $185 ea. not bad for the size of the things

It is of the spanner variety but not like the 4 tab, it has 4 unequaly spaced holes. I got a hold of a big hootus socket that fits the hex and tried to impact it but with no luck.

kida getting flustered and ready to break out the oxy-ace

Originally posted by ComputerCowboy
It is of the spanner variety but not like the 4 tab, it has 4 unequaly spaced holes. I got a hold of a big hootus socket that fits the hex and tried to impact it but with no luck.

kida getting flustered and ready to break out the oxy-ace

:question: :question: :question:

I think that the outer nut, the jam nut, gets torqued down pretty hard, but if you found a socket that fits over it, and got a large socket driver on that, it should have broken loose.

However, the system is composed of an inner hex nut, a lock washer that has a tab riding in a groove in the spindle, then an outer jam nut. If you slid the socket on, and both hex nuts happened to be lined up, you might have inadvertently gotten the socket over both nuts as well as the tab washer in between. It would not turn because you were trying to turn the outer and inner nuts, with the tabbed lock washer in between, all at the same time. That tab washer will not spin. It is keyed into the spindle. That locked tab washer is really what keeps the inner hex nut from spinning. The outer jam nut just keeps the tab washer against the inner nut so the washer can keep the inner nut from spinning.

Make sure your socket is only on the outer nut. Look to see if the spindle threads are already goobered up. Look to see if the outer jam nut has any holes in it, like an allen head set screw might be recessed into that might be keeping it from turning. Once you check all that, you should be able to put the socket on the outer hex nut, and put a good long bar on it. It *should* crack loose. It does not take *that* much to loosen that jam nut, as long as you make sure you are only trying to spin the outer jam nut, and not the whole locking system.

BTW, spindles for these rigs are not cheap. Hold off on the oxy/ace for a little while longer.... :D

Thanks I'm goina go take another look at the thing that is causing me undue stress .. i don't need this!

are the 4 holes "small"?? (1/4" or less)

if so, clean the grease out of them and look for little allen-head set screws. There will probable be three of them. Back them out (no need to completly remove, but back out most of the way). These are used to lock the outer nut onto a slotted "washer" between the two nuts. Once the screws are backed out, you would be able to easyly back the nut off with just a ratchet. Then carfully remove the slotted washer (you will have to pull it strait out, it has a key way in it), then the inner nut.

Note, the inner nut should/may have a small pin sticking out of the face, this locks into the slotted washer. Be sure to get it in the correct direction when you reinstal.

good luck
-mark

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
are the 4 holes "small"?? (1/4" or less)

if so, clean the grease out of them and look for little allen-head set screws. There will probable be three of them. Back them out (no need to completly remove, but back out most of the way). These are used to lock the outer nut onto a slotted "washer" between the two nuts. Once the screws are backed out, you would be able to easyly back the nut off with just a ratchet. Then carfully remove the slotted washer (you will have to pull it strait out, it has a key way in it), then the inner nut.

Note, the inner nut should/may have a small pin sticking out of the face, this locks into the slotted washer. Be sure to get it in the correct direction when you reinstal.

good luck
-mark

Did some of the hex head nuts have set screws?

Whoo hoo

I got the right rotor off but the allen head set screws on the driver side were stripped so i'm goina drill em out and tap em

Originally posted by Hooper


Did some of the hex head nuts have set screws?

Ooooooo, you catch on quick!!:flipoff2: j/k
yeah, some of the spindle nuts have little set screws in them to lock them in place.

Originally posted by TORC


Ooooooo, you catch on quick!!:flipoff2: j/k
yeah, some of the spindle nuts have little set screws in them to lock them in place.

I know some of the spindle nuts have set screws, but I did not know that any hex jam nuts had set screws. Doesn't make sense for them to have set screws, since they are torqued down so tightly. Lining the set screws up against holes in the tabbed washer would be a real headache.

Yeah, I catch on quick. What do you expect for a newbie.

Oh, wait, that's right I'm a wheeler now. I passed 100 posts (again) I should know everything now..... :D

Sorry I probally didn't say it wasn't a hex head jamb nut.

but now I know its just a ring with set screws in them