What is involved with this? Do you open them all the way up (like a U) or just enough to allow more movement. If I open them all the way up how much risk is their in fanning? Should I drill them and add a bolt or can I get new open clamps with a bolt? Where? Thanks.

open them up and then rebend them further up so theres more room and they arent pinched tight.the idea of drilling the hole is good but i believe it is pretty hard steel try it though, if yah can drill it thats your best bet.

The answer is like a U

Like a U

heat up the top bend with a torch and pry it up with a screw driver when it starts to glow a little. your spring packs will destroy themselves a little more quickly than normal when you do this. i have busted a few so far. don't think i will use this trick for more flex in the future, but it wasn't bad for a sua rig.

i have used this trick with yj springs used in a soa. i don't recomend it. yes it will increase flex but it leads to other problems. tweeked and broken main leaves is the biggest problem. just my op.

I'm considering doing this on some 4" arched springs (Pro-Chump) to decrease the harshness on the road and add some flex (sua). I can see that doing it on flat springs would be a problem but I've seen alot of arched springs that come that way (OME, Skyjacker).

Arched or not, when you heat up the spring, especially to the point of it glowing red, its going to weaken it, and thats what the other responders are saying.. you will run into problems breaking and bending the springs in the weak spot.... oh.. and I wouldnt make it too well known that you run a super 35 kit.. Around here, thats not something to be proud of! :flipoff2:
Scott

I wouldn't be heating the leaf spring itself, just the clamp. I think they can be heated hot enough without damaging the leaf spring. Are you suggesting that the leaf might get too hot if I torch only the clamp? The other option is to cut them off and replace them with new ones that are already opened up with an anti-fanning bolt.

I hear ya on the Super 35. I didn't get it in order to be esteemed by anyone. I proudly call it my Super Turd. I'm really not proud of it but also don't see a reason to be ashamed at what anybody on this board thinks. Maybe I should be ashamed of my D30 4.88's too?:D That's not my intention with the sig. I'm running a 4 and 33's. Not enough there to spin a tube or trash a ring and pinion. Got a 5 year warranty on the Detroit and axles. So far there have only been 3 or 4 broken Super 35 axles by Superior's own admission and they were under extreme conditions. Everybody knows the Super 35 is not intended for extreme duty. However, the problem is not with the Super 35 axles it's with the tubes and r&p. If I had a 6 and 35's or bigger then I'd have snatched up an 8.8 or XJ D44 for it. Got the Super 35 for $799 so it was still a couple hundred less than an 8.8 build up with Detroit and I get a warranty. I'll let you know when I break it. Yes, I may not be wheeling hard enough but I will go where a 4 and 33's will take me in central NC. Not much to break on down here.

Thanks for the reply.:flipoff2:

I haven't been able to test drive the Jeep yet (and it won't be any time soon either), but when I bought my leaf springs the previous owner just cut the clamps level with the top of the main leaf. I am running SOA on 2"Rancho YJ's on my CJ w/D44's and 35's.

Should I grind off the rivet and put new open one's on? Where is the best place to get these?

Or just leave it?

Experience and opinions appreciated.

you are right about heating the clamp, it won't affect the springs,(for god sakes don't ever torch the springs if you are planning on driving on them) i did it awhile back on the pro crap 4inchers for a yj. they wear and fall apart faster than they should after the mod. they will ride a little better, but will make clacking sounds and steer sloppier. plus they fan out funny, even though i kept the clamps fairly tight vertically on the springs.

I run them with the tops cut off on my black diamond springs but they are startting to get a little bent out of shape after a couple of years like this.

Don't "U" the clamps. Open them up and run the bolt higher, sure, but don't leave them open at the top if you climb steep stuff.
Spent a week in Moab with Alcans with clamp bolts removed, had the second leaf hitting the ground on Double Whammy bottom step without spinning any tires, just windup.
By the time I got home the 6 week old Alcans lost 3 inches of lift.

ok, this thread has gone on too long. just open up the front clamps on the front springs and see how you like them. then you will know for sure how they work for YOU. quit talking about it, just go do it.