I've been reading about link suspensions lately and wanted to see if I understand some parts of it.I've been experimenting lately.This is what I
have found.

Stockheight 00 Rodeo with 235/75's...when climbing steep hills,the rear
of the rodeo "squats" a couple inches and the front suspension "lifts" a
few inches.This unloads the frontend and puts pressure on the rear tires/suspension,it is under a constant "load".Also note the lower links(no load)
are actually pointing down from the axle --->forward.

98 Rodeo with 4" T-bar crank and just 912's (I removed 2" spacers for this part of test) the rear sits about 1/2" lower than front.When climbing the hill
the rear will "squat" about 1" and the front doesn't raise. (The front is not on the stops it still has almost 2" of down travel).
Next hill was rutted out badly and had 2 small turns in it.The Rodeo went up
the hill but it "looked" like the rear suspension just wasn't moving much and the frontend was being bounced around alot (side to side).No load-lower links have a noticable upward angle ~7* didn't have a protractor with me :flipoff2:

I put the 2" spacer's back in.Climbing the hill the rear actually rose about 1"
(it did not squat!!)and the front stayed the same.Back at the rutted hill
the Rodeo climbed like it like it was paved.The front stayed fairly level
and rear stayed level (looking at the bumpers in relationship to the hill)
The angle of the lower links is about 2x what it is without the spacers.
(Short arms)

BUT the rear suspension was moving from bumpstops to bumpstops as she climbed the hill never loosing traction.The Rodeo stayed level the entire time.

My observation was that I moved the pivot point/IC from under the truck to a
position near the top of the bellhousing.

Is this the type of rear suspension movement that I should have? OR
Should the rearsuspension be neutral and not move vertically when
power is applied?
It works great now so it won't be changed it's her DD baby.But I want to make sure I'm on the right path.
Thanks

Come on guys I ask a possible dumbass question on pirate (Isuzu)
and don't even get a :flipoff2: whats up with that ~~~!.....I really
don't want to post this anywere else cause.........even the nubees might
flip me off....hahaha.....just curious if i'm thinking right. :p

i think your about right. i kinda did a similar test on my rig...98 rodeo, black as well.....ive got the ome coils and 2" spacers and love the way it rides and handles. without the spacers it was shitty, with, real good. so it hink your line of thinking i fairly accurate. HTH..... by the way, how big of a pain in the ass was your body lift ??? auto or manual? also , im having trouble finding a shop that will align me right with the t-bars at 4" crank......what do you think ????? later, :smokin: -tom.

B/L for me was easy.It would be a pain in the arse, if not impossible without a welder,
torch,saw etc. i had a lot of modifiing to do.But it was fairly easy modifiing,the bumpers
were easy the steering was the worse.I've heard others did not have to modify steering column,duh well dunno..........oh her's is auto.......

No prob with alignment we know the owners.....hahahahha
.

now with the bodylift on an auto. dont you have to modify the linkage ??? this to me sounds like an incredible pain in the ass....... but the extra clearance for bigger tires is mandatory unless i want to cut my fenders out.........and i dont !!! as far as the alignment.......i raised the t-bars 4" and it couldnt be aligned......is 4" too far? i didnt think so at the time but now all the shims are removed and i was still like this /-\ so i lowered it about an inch and the tires straightened out. any help you could give would be great.......as yours ( or lisa's ) was kinda a point of reference for mine. hence the 4" lift.....i posted this ? to the isuzu wire board and didnt really get a straight answer. thanks for your help, bansil. :beer: -tom.

I don't think 4" is too hi IMHO.Depending where you measured it at you may have been sitting higher than 4".
What couldn't be aligned?Camber?caster?
With Isuzu IFS,there is a fine line between being aligned like this /-\
and not aligned like this /-\.
At first we had 6" cranked into the Rodeo but it rode like a fawking
cement truck.The tires looked like this /-\ but the camber and toe
were within spec,we lowered it down to get some movement and not bounce
down the road.The caster on ours is relative to the height of the rearend
so unless you sit level or ass down than the caster will be out to a degree.
The B/L on the Auto 2nd gen is not as everyone says.search my name
onthe wire for B/L 2nd gen Rodeo.I did a write up.I will try to find the link.
But nothing at all has to be done to the shifter because it is a cable shifter.
and there is plenty of slack in the cable.

3" B/L write up (http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB86&Number=351131&Forum=,,,,,,f86,,,,,,&Words=&Searchpage=6&Limit=25&Main=351131&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=8635&daterange=1&newerval=1&newertype=y&olderval=1&oldertype=w&bodyprev=#Post351131)