This is for all the guys that are building on a severly restricted budget. Everyone wants an Atlas but we all start at the bottom. It may not be the toughest solution but it works, its clean, and you don't have to have a full shop to make it happen. If you guys think it should be in newbie tech, move it.

http://www.4x4getaways.com/oldmansye.htm

i don't get it. how is it different then the Rubicon express hack n tap SYE??

which was probably more of a PTA then swapping the shaft, FYI.

The RE unit that is inexpensive is for the 96+ cases. If you want to do the earlier case, you spend more money. This way if you are a good scrounge you can do it cheaper and just as good.

Uhhh...The RE hack and tap was for the early cases.

Here is an example of the cheaper RE unit on a new case and runs about $90

http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/sye.html

It costs much more if you get the one that also adds the part with the aluminum machined seal holder for the older cases. They run around $190. So some scrounging and a $40 part yields you equivelent to the $190 setup.

Remember this mod is for the old cases that have the two piece tailcones.

you can still use the hack-n-tap kit if you can find that speedo housing for a 96+ case. Tom Woods says all you have to do to use a TJ shaft in a YJ case is to remove the bearings from the gears/synchros on the 4wd shift portions (this is because the TJ's don't disconnect the front end and it is thereby always spinning the shaft, therefore you don't need a bearing on a gear that is always going to keep the same relationship to the shaft that it rides on. I learned this when I was sent a TJ SYE from Tom Woods (basically a pre hacked-n-tapped RE kit) instead of a YJ kit.

The RE unit still costs $90 where you can do it for around $45 with the currie part.

only advantage to the RE kit, or at least the Tom Woods kit is that it doesn't require the flange type adapter for your CV. Mine came with a Spicer CV yoke.

Uhhh...The RE hack and tap was for the early cases.

dude I did the RE hack n tap on my jeep. yes $190, but also included a new tap, drill bit and bolts with nylocks. once you run to the junk yard and to osh, your cost savings is gone.


this is mine>
http://tellico.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/1305620-shaft.jpg

and that flange is very different from the RE flange. the RE flange will engage much more of the spline, like 2X. it doesn't have a flat side, hard to explain, the shank that engages the spline sticks out both sides: the spicer flange mount on the drive shaft has relief in it to clear it..

I've been looking for a compatible cv yoke and have set up a manufacturer to make them. A bunch of us are going to go in and pool our orders. The CV yoke would be better, but you do with what you have. If anybody can steer me to a supplier for a cv yoke with a 27 Involute spline with an ID of 1.187 for a 1310 u-joint, it would be most appreciated. I will work with the seal surface diameter.

Why would anyone pay $190 for a hack and tap when they could get an AA for $200?

I've been thinking about TJ and YJ cases this recently and now my questions have been answered. My brother has a 95 YJ. I have the output housing and tailshaft from my TJ. I first assumed that I would have to use the TJ tail shaft and wasn't sure how this would work since the YJ uses needle bearings and the TJ doesn't. Didn't wanna make my brother's t-case a guinea pig. If I can use my TJ tailshaft and my TJ tail housing in his YJ case then I can pick up an RE flange for <$50 used and then an XJ front driveshaft for ~$25 and have it shortend for $50 and get the companion flange for ~$50 and he'd be done. $175 including driveshaft is not too bad for SYE. Would be even cheaper if I could find the 27 spline CV yoke for less than $100.

BTW, browsing the Spicer catalog shows a 1.1720" 27 involute spline yoke (bearing strap style but I think they can accept CV joints). It's 1310 series. The part number for the 22* one is 2-4-5851-1 and the 30* one is 2-4-7751-1.

I've been looking for a compatible cv yoke and have set up a manufacturer to make them. A bunch of us are going to go in and pool our orders. The CV yoke would be better, but you do with what you have. If anybody can steer me to a supplier for a cv yoke with a 27 Involute spline with an ID of 1.187 for a 1310 u-joint, it would be most appreciated. I will work with the seal surface diameter.

http://www.4xshaft.com/ty231.jpg

I believe this Tom Woods SYE kit uses the yoke you are looking for because the kit requires the core of your old tailshaft and housing. I called and asked if they would sell the yoke by itself and they said no. I found another supplier on the net by searching google but they were over $100. I can't find them anymore and lost my bookmark when I upgraded computers. IIRC they were in AZ.

Why would anyone pay $190 for a hack and tap when they could get an AA for $200?

I've been wondering about this recently and now my questions have been answered. .

OK please tell???

OK please tell???

Sorry, still perplexed about the YJ hack n tap vs the AA. Was wondering about swapping the TJ tailhousing to a YJ case.

Sorry, still perplexed about hack n tap vs the AA. Was wondering about swapping the TJ tailhousing to a YJ case.

I guess you are asking me?? :shaking: I bought it because i wanted to, and I'm resistant to hype and pier pressure. :flipoff2:

(this is because the TJ's don't disconnect the front end and it is thereby always spinning the shaft, therefore you don't need a bearing on a gear that is always going to keep the same relationship to the shaft that it rides on.

But a YJ with an open diff will NOT be spinning. I assume that this is still ok since the AA kit doesn't use the needle bearings either and I've never seen anywhere where they recommend adding a front locker to keep the front ouptut spinning. I even ran it on my YJ like that for a while.

If you have the TW TJ SYE in your YJ t-case with an open front please tell me if you've had any trouble with it. I am considering doing this with my brother's Jeep.

But a YJ with an open diff will NOT be spinning. I assume that this is still ok since the AA kit doesn't use the needle bearings either and I've never seen anywhere where they recommend adding a front locker to keep the front ouptut spinning. I even ran it on my YJ like that for a while.

If you have the TW TJ SYE in your YJ t-case with an open front please tell me if you've had any trouble with it. I am considering doing this with my brother's Jeep.
with no front locker your driveshaft may try to drag a little on the front output of the T-case (simply due to the added spinning weight causing resistance to spin) thereby not letting the chain spin as fast as it would if the front end were spinning because of the tires. This could in theory wear out the gears/ synchros, or possibly even the shaft, but I highly doubt it. Run the shaft w/ no bearings just like AA, RE, or Tom Woods would have you do.