I recently finished my rig...the mods i did were an SOA, Dana 44's 4.56 Gears
SYE, and a Tom Woods custom drive shaft...

i had 33x12.50 15 bfg muds on them...but i know my dana 44's can do better,,

so...what will be the size of tire that i should mount without breaking u-joints on trail?

35x15.5 15 SX's? 35x14.5 15 Boggers? 35x13.5 15 Baja Claws?
36x12.5 15 SX's? tell me what size should mount....

thanks!

as long as your easy on the skinny pedal, these should all be ok. also be sure to adjust your turning stops so as not to bind the ujoints too bad. this will pop a ujoint no matter how easy you.

JJ

With stock axles shafts and joints sooner or later they will break with any of those tires. I would be comfortable with any 35 or 36 though.....I used to run my 38.5 SX on a stock 44 and guess what, Stuff broke. Never the gears, just the shafts and a u-joint.

I'm running all warn shafts and 297x joints in my front waggy 44... never had a problem turning 35x14.5 boggers

im running stock everything on the Axle...

will i break a lot of u-joints with the 35x14.5 15 boggers?



how much will it cost to reinforce (axle shafts and CTM u-joints) the Axle?

probably. boggers break shit.

I got a 98 TJ with a 30 in the front and 35 in the rear and it took me 6 years to finally break a u-joint , in the front, running 33 x 12.5 and 35 x 12.5 BFG's. Unless you are extremely aggressive you'll be fine. Never hurts to carry spares though.

BTW - I do run some of the toughest trails No. Cal. has to offer.

You might check out the Jantz u-joint....search for it on the web. It looks pretty good and like half the price of CTMs. Warn shafts are like 5 to 6 hundred, I think Superiors might be close to that as well. CTMs are about 4 hundred a pair.

Just ran the con in 7 hours with a dana 30 with powerlock and 35" MTR's. Haven't broke yet. 44 has to be better.

Just ran the con in 7 hours with a dana 30 with powerlock and 35" MTR's. Haven't broke yet. 44 has to be better.


not that much, sure the housing and knuckles and shit are stronger but a d30 from a 95 and up will have 297x joints. you are picking up some strength at the inner axle shaft where the splines are since the d44 has 30 of them thingies.

to answer your question though I think the 3612.50 would be a good choice and run 760x joints till you can go with better shafts and junk.

just dont get plain stupid on teh go pedal. easier said than done i know.

we came out from little sluice two weekends ago on front wheels only, with a broken rear t-case output on out CJ5. 33's on Dana 30 w/ Power lok through gatekeeper. So if the powerlocked Dana 30 pulling front wheels only can take a 401 with a t-18 all the way out, the 44 should be fine, like was said above the 44 is larger in diameter at the axle shafts than the 30 and has more splines, that goes a long ways

so....36x12.5 15 SX´s will be fine with stock axle shafts and u-joints?

Get yourself some of the new 37" IROK radials and beat the piss out of EM!

I'm going to be running 36" IROK bias on my yj with scout 44s once i get my lift done. it will be poered by a 258, np 435, 4:1 d300 and 4:88s in the axles with a detroit front and a full spool rear. hopefully that helps you a little.

If you are really worried about it run what you have this year then when you can save up the cash slide your stockers out spend some doe on the alloy supperiors with the extra beef around the joint ears, then get the 30 spline upgraded outers and hubs add some CTMs or super joints into the equation and youll have a pretty decent setup $300 on the alloy inners, $300 on the 30 spline hubs and outers, and whatever teh CTMs are 150 for the pair. so $750 for some serious upgrades, then carry your stockers as backup.

Thats what i will proabably do versus dropping 1500-2000 on a custom 60. Long story short though watch the skinny pedal like we did nursing the CJ5 out that i mentioned and it will live, you probably arent going to break in a mild bind, but if you get her tied up tight and jump the throttle trying to get out plan on swapping parts. also with the 258 you are not running as much axle breaking HP as we were, i will tell you that the splines on that D30 were really well twisted :D ad it been in my D44 with 35's though i doubt they would have twisted like that.

Honestly 36's on a 44 with a 6 cyl should be fine

this is what ill do..

Ive already sold my BFG's...

And im buying 36x12.5 SX's (is it ok? ill be rockcrawling...)

and later on....when money rains on me....ill buy the CTM's and Cromemoly axles...when i have this...i should be able to run wider tires right?

sounds like you have a plan there... the sx's are great especially grooved.

since you are running a factory width axle, pick up some junk yard spares and put the 760x's in everything, or bobby longs superjoints.

so you are saying that ill break a lot of u-joints with the sx's?

Guess what everybody a power lock is a limited slip differential it is not a true locker. I have seen dana 44s live for years with 39" swampers, but the diffs were open or had a limited slip. You dont start breaking a lot of axles untill you lock it( arb, detroit, lockrite, lincoln, etc, etc). :shaking:

36x12.5 sx's it is...


until axle is reinforced......

Guess what everybody a power lock is a limited slip differential it is not a true locker. I have seen dana 44s live for years with 39" swampers, but the diffs were open or had a limited slip. You dont start breaking a lot of axles untill you lock it( arb, detroit, lockrite, lincoln, etc, etc). :shaking:
but that's the beauty of an ARB, leave it unlocked until you've failed on an obsticle once or twice, then lock it. this saves your shafts and joints from being shock loaded over and over and over on just the easy parts of the trail.

Yeah those dirt sections of the trail sure do shock load axle shafts :flipoff2: HAHA ARBs are for yuppies....pssssst----I don't think it's locked.....psssssst----- I think the selenoid is froze.....pssssssssssssst----my air line must be broken.....PSSSSSSSSSST-----GET A DETROIT :laughing: Sorry I love doing that :D

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: Psssst selenoid, Pssst get a SPOOL :D



Guess what everybody a power lock is a limited slip differential it is not a true locker. I have seen dana 44s live for years with 39" swampers, but the diffs were open or had a limited slip. You dont start breaking a lot of axles untill you lock it( arb, detroit, lockrite, lincoln, etc, etc). :shaking:


Thank you for pointing that out, I would hope in Jeep Tech on PBB everyone knew what a Plok is. But if they don't know anything about a Plok i'll at least say a few things in its defense over other options.


I actually have to disagree with the comment that you dont break axles till you run a "True Locker". With a true locker you do seem to break more, but then again in defense A PowerLok "IF" Setup properly works extremely well because of the unique ramping action of the cross shafts and should be IMPO a level above all other LSD's and just a step below a a Locker because of its ability to hold and not release once power is put to the unit and the cross shafts ramp up even when pinched.

The CJ5 pulled with both front tires all the way out it was better than open, only thing better IMPO would have been an ARB. Both axleshafts are twisted and the splines are twisted to shit too but it got us out past Gatekeeper before it finally broke the front axle trying to get it up that final slab. Had we had a detroit a few shock treaments while turning and it locking and unlocking and we would have been breaking alot sooner so it did buy us time.

And on top of that I have broken and twisted multiple front Dana 60 axle, 30 and 35 spline shafts on my ford/cummins running a Power Lok in the front, running only 35's and tire chains in snow, sometimes pulling a trail in shit. And on two occassions have broken both front outers at the same time because the Plok didnt release and i was pinched not just aimlessly spinning but just bound up while crawling. But i will agree that on any vehicle no amount of additional preload will keep a LSD engaged.

And you are right the true locking of a detroit or ARB cant be beat, aside from the occassional blown seals with an ARB , it is the way to go.

With the Detoit, the Racheting action (that i dispise) which places alot more load on your axles because of the shock from release and engagement is a Real PITA. Plus in tight spots while balancing in a bad location it loves to pop and then slide you a little bit left or right away from where you wanted to be.

But the Detroit is Failsafe for the most part or get a Spool

If you do it spend the additional bucks for a selectable locker. ARB or Eaton. even though they have some problems especially with seals.

Yes the clutches on a LSD will absorb some of the shock preventing some breakage thats why i got rid of my detroit and went back to my Plok's, the Ratcheting increased my Front 44 axle joint failure/ wear problems, went back to the PLok and i at least had both tires still working just like before minus the continual ratcheting and joint maintenance.

Plus when on a budget a Plok can be had for $25-50 at any wrecking yard and another $35-40 puts in clutches, massage it a little with a little added preload and for $100 I can run the little sluice like i have for years without any problems then pop it open in two or three years do it all over again.

Just a few words to defend the Plok because in all the trial and errors and different setups that ive run i do feel that it handles alot like a locker and really should be considered just a hair over all other LSD's. Yeah its not the best but for $100 vs $500-700 Otherwise F&R I'll take my compromise.

My next setup because i Liked its manners and lack of wheel spin and shock from ratcheting will be a Eaton or ARB up front in the 44 and i will continue to run the Plok in the 60 rear since i dont want to spend the doe all around.

Either run a

Spool
ARB or Eaton Elocker
Plok-custom setup tight (All other LSD's are worthless)
Detroit (but i really hated the ratcheting and as you can tell i think there are better options)

Its not worth the money on anything else.

Yeah those dirt sections of the trail sure do shock load axle shafts :flipoff2: HAHA ARBs are for yuppies....pssssst----I don't think it's locked.....psssssst----- I think the selenoid is froze.....pssssssssssssst----my air line must be broken.....PSSSSSSSSSST-----GET A DETROIT :laughing: Sorry I love doing that :D
oh don't worry, I said screw it to the solenoids too, I run my OBA straight to a pneumatic switch, straight to the ARB. It's about as fool-proof as you can get. And when I say easier sections of the trail, I'm not just talking about dirt; I went all the way through Fordyce, doing all the "winch hills" without ever locking my ARB (115"wb, 35" mtrs).

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: Psssst selenoid, Pssst get a SPOOL :D






Thank you for pointing that out, I would hope in Jeep Tech on PBB everyone knew what a Plok is. But if they don't know anything about a Plok i'll at least say a few things in its defense over other options.


I actually have to disagree with the comment that you dont break axles till you run a "True Locker". With a true locker you do seem to break more, but then again in defense A PowerLok "IF" Setup properly works extremely well because of the unique ramping action of the cross shafts and should be IMPO a level above all other LSD's and just a step below a a Locker because of its ability to hold and not release once power is put to the unit and the cross shafts ramp up even when pinched.

The CJ5 pulled with both front tires all the way out it was better than open, only thing better IMPO would have been an ARB. Both axleshafts are twisted and the splines are twisted to shit too but it got us out past Gatekeeper before it finally broke the front axle trying to get it up that final slab. Had we had a detroit a few shock treaments while turning and it locking and unlocking and we would have been breaking alot sooner so it did buy us time.

And on top of that I have broken and twisted multiple front Dana 60 axle, 30 and 35 spline shafts on my ford/cummins running a Power Lok in the front, running only 35's and tire chains in snow, sometimes pulling a trail in shit. And on two occassions have broken both front outers at the same time because the Plok didnt release and i was pinched not just aimlessly spinning but just bound up while crawling. But i will agree that on any vehicle no amount of additional preload will keep a LSD engaged.

And you are right the true locking of a detroit or ARB cant be beat, aside from the occassional blown seals with an ARB , it is the way to go.

With the Detoit, the Racheting action (that i dispise) which places alot more load on your axles because of the shock from release and engagement is a Real PITA. Plus in tight spots while balancing in a bad location it loves to pop and then slide you a little bit left or right away from where you wanted to be.

But the Detroit is Failsafe for the most part or get a Spool

If you do it spend the additional bucks for a selectable locker. ARB or Eaton. even though they have some problems especially with seals.

Yes the clutches on a LSD will absorb some of the shock preventing some breakage thats why i got rid of my detroit and went back to my Plok's, the Ratcheting increased my Front 44 axle joint failure/ wear problems, went back to the PLok and i at least had both tires still working just like before minus the continual ratcheting and joint maintenance.

Plus when on a budget a Plok can be had for $25-50 at any wrecking yard and another $35-40 puts in clutches, massage it a little with a little added preload and for $100 I can run the little sluice like i have for years without any problems then pop it open in two or three years do it all over again.

Just a few words to defend the Plok because in all the trial and errors and different setups that ive run i do feel that it handles alot like a locker and really should be considered just a hair over all other LSD's. Yeah its not the best but for $100 vs $500-700 Otherwise F&R I'll take my compromise.

My next setup because i Liked its manners and lack of wheel spin and shock from ratcheting will be a Eaton or ARB up front in the 44 and i will continue to run the Plok in the 60 rear since i dont want to spend the doe all around.

Either run a

Spool
ARB or Eaton Elocker
Plok-custom setup tight (All other LSD's are worthless)
Detroit (but i really hated the ratcheting and as you can tell i think there are better options)

Its not worth the money on anything else.

Dang dude, i said that you dont start breaking alot of axles unless you put in a full locker, I did not say that you cant break axles with out one. I have personaly broken a front axle shaft with a power lock and I must say that the power lock is the best lsd made. But my point is that with this guy running an open diff he will probably never break the front 44 with 36s unless he gets really stupid. I know guys with locked 44s that bust axles all the time with 35" tires and guys that run 39" tires and never bust. I think its funny that all these people are saying he needs to get warns and ctms when he has an open diff, thats just a waste of money for his aplication. :shaking: Can you say sheeple

Dang dude, i said that you dont start breaking alot of axles unless you put in a full locker, I did not say that you cant break axles with out one. I have personaly broken a front axle shaft with a power lock and I must say that the power lock is the best lsd made. But my point is that with this guy running an open diff he will probably never break the front 44 with 36s unless he gets really stupid. I know guys with locked 44s that bust axles all the time with 35" tires and guys that run 39" tires and never bust. I think its funny that all these people are saying he needs to get warns and ctms when he has an open diff, thats just a waste of money for his aplication. :shaking: Can you say sheeple



SHEEPLE :laughing: :laughing:

OOPS I'm a SPAZ sometimes when i get to thinking and typing about something, usually people are ripping on me about the Plok so i kinda went off on my ussual rampage. :shaking:



I Agree, too many are caught up in the hype. I just thought i might throw out my thoughts and opinions especially about the Plok, I agree that you can run big tires and not break on things less than a 60, just like l ran 35's on my D30 for years. I threw out the comment on axles and CTMs kinda carelessly. I actually should added "Thats what i'll do if i start breaking shit" Until then I'll just run it. :beer: Im cheap like that

I wheeled mine with 44"s and 37" mtrs and broke stock u joints and twisted rear splines but I used the vehicle and wheeled it all the time.

Can you say sheeple

haha! Sheeple! haha!

You can run whatever tire you want on a 44, especially open, if you use your head a little. "When in doubt, gas it out" does not apply here. If that's your style, perhaps a built 60 would be a better match. Personally, I think a 44 is sufficient for most people.

so you are saying that ill break a lot of u-joints with the sx's?

well since you have asked the same question about three times...

IT ALL DEPENDS ON HOW YOU GIT IT :flipoff2:

well...another question...


will my 4.0 engine be able to move de 36'' tire ok?

Now we're getting into newbie territory!

It depends on what gearing you run as to how easily it will be able to turn them.

Gear Ratio, any motor can turn any tire its all a matter of gear reduction to be able to do such, look at the Zuk's running 38's with the four popper. Change your gear ratio to acheive the desired RPM speed at highway and on the trail

I have 4.56´s...what should I buy....35x13.5 15 Baja Claws or 36x12.5 15 SX´s?

36 12.5 TSL bias plys.. or 37" IROKs