I've got an 83 southwind 25 ft with a 454. We've flat towed my jeep all over but I now have a car trailer and need to know if the hitch on the motorhome is strong enough. The jeep (XJ) and trailer weight 6700 lbs loaded for the trail.

There are no marking on the hitch. The previous owner said they pulled a 2 horse trailer with it. Which from my web search weights around 5K to 7K depending on how much the horses weight, plus tools, feed etc.

Its a 2 inch receiver welded to a cross tube that crosses the frame and is bolted and welded to the frame. There is another rectangular tube that is welded to the receiver and goes straight forward about 3 ft to another cross bar between the frames.

Last can anyone recommend a hitch shop that could look at it in north San Diego county?

Just want to be safe.

FYI,

Mels Welding in Vista, CA is a good place to go about hitch questions.

I've got an 83 southwind 25 ft with a 454. We've flat towed my jeep all over but I now have a car trailer and need to know if the hitch on the motorhome is strong enough. The jeep (XJ) and trailer weight 6700 lbs loaded for the trail.

There are no marking on the hitch. The previous owner said they pulled a 2 horse trailer with it. Which from my web search weights around 5K to 7K depending on how much the horses weight, plus tools, feed etc.

Its a 2 inch receiver welded to a cross tube that crosses the frame and is bolted and welded to the frame. There is another rectangular tube that is welded to the receiver and goes straight forward about 3 ft to another cross bar between the frames.

Last can anyone recommend a hitch shop that could look at it in north San Diego county?

Just want to be safe.



Most hitches on smaller motorhomes like that are rated at 3500#'s, and for
good reason. The frame extensions are NOT beefy enough for more weight.

I'd guess the hitch is strong enough, but take a good look at the frame. My friend had a medium sized motorhome (e-350 chassis w/ 7.3 idi) which he bought and as a condition of the purches, it was to be fitted to haul a 4-horse trailer. Coming back from a ride in reno, I think, the entire rear end of the frame fell off. Fractured just aft of the rear axle. And he wasn't really pulling that much weight either. Motorhomes generally have a long overhang aft of the rear axle, so when you put a hitch on there, your tongue weight is going to have some godawful leverage right at the rear end. I'd take it to a dealer and have it inspected, and have it put in writting. Try and get it where they sign off on something that indicates the max load you plan to pull, and that the hitch and frame can handle it. On my friend's rig, they got the dealership to pay for the entire reapir because it was in the contract. Might be a good idea to beef up that region of the frame regardless.
-John

Fleetwood class A's from the 80s and 90s were notorious for being overbuilt (weight-wise) for the unit's chassis GVWR. That is they would build them to weight right up to the GVW, leaving little if any room for payload (not to single out Fleetwood though, it was common among other MFGs too). I would check the coach's GCWR (gross COMBINED weight rating) to see if your trailer combo is within its rating. If not I doubt any dealer would give you a guarantee like jaluhn is talking about. However, if its just 25ft long as you say, chances are good that the chassis weight ratings are sufficient. Its the longer ones that they didn't bother going to a heavier chassis that are the problems. Also on your short coach there probably aren't frame rail extensions installed by the OEM (fleetwood) as the factory chassis was probably long enough, with the hitch attached directly to it. I would get under there and see how the hitch is attached though. If its welded to the frame rails I would be suspicious and inspect the welds throroughly. Better is if it is bolted or pinned using huge rivets.

Dusty
(Brand Manager at an RV manufacturer)

I'd take it to a dealer and have it inspected, and have it put in writting. Try and get it where they sign off on something that indicates the max load you plan to pull, and that the hitch and frame can handle it.



Good fawking luck! :eek:


On my friend's rig, they got the dealership to pay for the entire reapir because it was in the contract. Might be a good idea to beef up that region of the frame regardless.
-John

This is exactly why. Anyone that will garantee someone elses work is a complete moron.