I need better carburetion, It stalls when on any angle. Would a electric fule pump help. What about a diferent carburetors HELP

It's time for fuel injection.

check out this link--
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html

What year?
Single or double barrel?

Fawkin newbie:flipoff2:

I had the same problem with mine. I switched to the Weber 32/36 carb and it helped quite a bit. The problem with the Carter carb is that the throttle shaft wears into the body of the carb, and a carb kit won't fix this. I have switched to a SB Chevy, if you're interested I still have the Weber, and I'd be willing to part with it.

All you Newbies (except you Cow) listen up! This is not a question for the board, send the people asking these questions here: www.jeepunlimited.com If you don't know that already, maybe you should spend some time there also.

Have a nice day :flipoff2:

Archie, oh man of great wisdom :barf:

Why exactly doesn't this belong on this board. It's about a Jeep and it's a technical question.

In answer to the orginal question. Go with a Motorcraft 2100

Ptrbilt

Did you read this:
81. This should be considered college level for wheeling Jeeps, so don't post kindergarden level topics.
Its found here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1223

This is not college level question, please take your
:barf: and go here: www.jeepsunlimited.com

Now, have a nice day :flipoff2:

Thanks Archie... here's your gold deputy for the day star. [pinned on your shirt]

PtrBilt, this place for hardcore Jeeping... not to say that technical questions of this nature won't be answered, they most certainly will.

However, you need to do your homework before you come in asking if an electric fuel pump will fix a problem with a shitty carb.

I didn't ask the question I was just offering a solution.

So what is considered college level?

Just use your head.

Things like I can't get my Jeep in to four wheel drive... what's wrong?
I'm getting water in the passenger side floor when it rains... why?
What does it take to put 32" tires on my TJ?

That kind of stuff won't fly.

If you're having a legitimate problem with a stock system.. fine, ask away. But do your homework first.

Originally posted by Mo
Just use your head.

Things like I can't get my Jeep in to four wheel drive... what's wrong?
I'm getting water in the passenger side floor when it rains... why?
What does it take to put 32" tires on my TJ?

That kind of stuff won't fly.

If you're having a legitimate problem with a stock system.. fine, ask away. But do your homework first.

Well stated Mo!:beer:
As for the carb suggestions, I'd have to say go with the Motocraft 2100, over any others if you cant go fuel injection. Search and you shall be rewarded:flipoff2:

-Jeremy

Originally posted by Jared Rude
So what is considered college level?

Read a lot of topics and you will see what 'level' of questions are discussed here and what questions are better left to the folks at JU. There is nothing wrong with posting on JU, its not a bad place, just better for stock or near stock questions.

WEBER!

Hey Archie-G you homo!


That's my buddy asking a legit question. Shove your jeepsunlimited opinion up your ass and let others respond.

:rolleyes: nucking fewbies :rolleyes:.. yes,your problem is the fuel pump. i suggest you go out and buy a pump that will pump atleast 250 gallons per hour.:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Ah, yes, I'm a homo because I know where to go to get answers and your 'buddy' doesn't.

Look, its good advise, if your budy wan't to get a good answer, send him to JU, or both you rump-runners can ask here and wonder why you still don't know the answer :rolleyes:

Whatever, Have a nice day :D

This thread is turning into a bad case of the blind leading the blind:rolleyes:
My question has still not been answered. My suggestion is that if you are going to ask a question, no matter how dumb we think it is, at least give the basic facts. Your question to me reads like: What's the difference between a chicken? or How deep is the Mississippi river? True or false, or my carb has problems. All I'm saying is ask a complete question and you will get a complete answer.:zzz:

Originally posted by ROCRALZ
Hey Archie-G you homo!


That's my buddy asking a legit question. Shove your jeepsunlimited opinion up your ass and let others respond.

Take your pissant childish name calling elsewhere.

friendly banter is fine... what you said isn't.


JMR - you want help? answer coomooflage's questions... he's trying to help.

Carburator? Whats that? Fuel Ijection the only way to fly. See if any salvage yards in your area will let you pull the manifold, injector rail, tb, and exhaust manifold off a core engine (4.0l). Then have them pull the wire harness from the same year. I would think the stuff off the core would be pretty cheap($100 or there abouts) I'll see what I find laying around here and let you know.



Hammer down and hope for the best

It's been 2 days, and the guy who started the thread hasn't responded. He must not need "help" like he asked for. What a waste, I'm done with it.:mad:

Yea! I though their may be a Lynching and not necessarily my butt.
Now that the dust hass settled and you guys are willing to stick your neck out and it's not too juvinile to ask? I'm redy for pre school.
IT'S A 1980 SINGLE BARREL CARB, that loads up, stalls out and hard to restart, when i'm my side running down a rutted out trail.
thanks for throughing me a line

For $13.00, get the Carter YF rebuild kit.
Sounds like your float is outa whack and the needle and seed are done. Another common problem is the diaphram or "plunger" starts to stick. In other words, it needs a rebuild
This rebuild should take you about 10 minutes if you know what your doing and probably an hour if you don't. You have the simplest carb in the world to work on. Take it off dissasemble it starting at the top. Once it's apart, get some carb dip and let the parts soak, hose 'em off, dry 'em, and put the new stuff in.

Worst case scenario : Go to the Pick-A-Part and find anything AMC with a 6 cyl and single barrel carb and for $6 to $12, you have another one, or better yet, buy the spare and screw with it first, it's a really easy fix and doesn't take a whole lot of brain cells to do it.

DO NOT TURN IT UPSIDE DOWN, until you have the little ball bearing, which is in the middle section.

Originally posted by Trapper
check out this link--
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html

Thanks for the link! I've been having problems with mine and I'm going to try that this weekend. :beer:

I just did a MC 2100 and love it and it cost me under $100. The true cure for stalling on an angle is a fuel injection kit. Look at the Howell Kit. www.howell-efi.com.

Well how did you do it for under $100, what about likage. Is this the cheeper way than the Weber- give mw the scoop i'm a iching to fix this stalling problem when on the trails.

Originally posted by 86cj7
I just did a MC 2100 and love it and it cost me under $100.

Where.......How........more details!

:beer:

Motorcraft / (sometimes called Autolite ) 2100 Carb Install on 258 Jeep


Parts List: MC2100 Carburetor, adapter, air cleaner assembly, throttle arm replacement (fabricated).

This 2bbl carburetor will replace the troublesome Carter BBD and produce a superior idle. It also appears to boost horsepower. It has a good reputation for being reliable and good off road. I am very happy with the conversion and thank all of those jeep enthusiasts who helped me with information on this swap.

This conversion will not meet with any legal requirements that prohibit the removal of original equipment or the tampering with emissions control equipment. Check with your local authorities if your vehicle will be subject to inspections in this regard.

The cost of this conversion will be approximately $150 or less using a junkyard carb you rebuilt yourself, rebuild kit, new air cleaner, adapter plate, and manual choke kit. You may opt for buying a rebuilt carburetor, and I would suggest that you order one made for an AMC 304.


1. Motorcraft 2100 Carburetor – Sources: AMC 304 or Ford 302. Unfortunately Motorcraft does not stamp 2100 anywhere I can see on these carbs. The correct size will have “1.08” in a small circle cast on the drivers side of the carb body, somewhat obscured by the accelerator pump linkage. As difficult as this is to measure in the junkyard, the 1.08 is the size of the venturis (the barrels). I have been advised that #108 is 450 cfm, #114 520 cfm, and #121 575. Use the 1.08. This carburetor body is cast from two pieces, a top cover and a combination baseplate / venturi / float bowl. Apparently you can set / observe the float height by idling the motor with the top cover removed. The top cover has the word “Motorcraft” cast into it on the passenger side above the float bowl.

Power Valve:

Be sure to replace the power valve on this carb. It’s function is to enrich the mixture as manifold vacuum drops (signaling load increase). It is closed at idle, and opens to add more fuel as the manifold vacuum drops. If it is not operating correctly, your mixture may be too rich. It is located on the bottom side (front) and is contained under a cap with 4 screws. There is also an accelerator pump on the front, also under a cover with 4 screws, but it is identifiable by the accell pump linkage. I have obtained good results using an oem 2 stage power valve. This valve is longer than the single stage and is original equipment. It is 39mm long from top to bottom and mine was labeled #16. I have been advised that this means that it will not enrich the mixture until manifold vacuum drops to 16 inches HG. I had to go to a carburetor rebuilder to get this part, it was $5.00. Take in your old one as a sample. A single stage may work fine as well.

2. Carburetor Adapter – It is the 2 barrel Rochestor to 2 barrel Holley adapter. Also known as the large 2 bbl to small 2 bbl manifold adapter. Summit sells TD Performance Products adapter no. TRD-2086 for $12.75. It comes with 2 gaskets. I replaced the slotted bolts that came in the kit with allen head bolts to make tightening the adapter to the manifold easier. I also used a hardening gasket maker instead of the gasket between the adapter and the manifold (Permatex Form a Gasket 1A). I also used a Ford gasket between the carburetor and the adapter. It is made of black plastic and looks like two gaskets sandwiched together with plastic bushings inside the stud holes. Is this gasket necessary? There is nothing special about it other than that it will seal very well and also provide a lot of heat insulation from the manifold. The hole in the adapter is slightly larger than the jeep manifold. I have thoughts to switch to an aluminum intake manifold from an 84 and blend the manifold to the adapter with a die grinder.

3. Air Cleaner Assembly – This carburetor has a much large air cleaner base than the Carter BBD. It is the standard 5 1/8 “ air cleaner base used on most 4 barrel carburetors like Holley’s. Unfortunately the close proximity of the power brake booster and master cylinder limit you to a 9 to 10” (9” preferred) open element air cleaner. If you swap booster to a dual diaphragm GM booster (a great upgrade) you will not be able to use a filter above the carb at all. A K & N 9” filter (2” height) with top and baseplate is $49.39 from Summit (pn. KNN-601110). I ended up fabricating an adapter to a K & N conical filter out of fibreglass.

4. Throttle arm – The OEM Carter uses a similar linkage, but pulls downward instead of the rear pull on the Motorcraft. You need to simply remove the throttle linkage ball stud from the Motorcraft, bolt on a small metal plate (1” by 3” and 1/8 thick) to the Motorcraft’s throttle arm with 1/8” bolts so it is rearward facing, and drill a new hole in that plate for the OEM throttle linkage. I would suggest bending a slight offset into the plate to move the ball stud slightly away from the carb to prevent binding of the linkage rod. In addition, bolt the plate on first then using the linkage rod, mark the plate for the new ball stud hole, remove the plate and drill the hole for the ball stud. Some people have removed the throttle arm from the old Carter BBD and bolted it on, but that seems like a waste of the old carb just to make a simple throttle arm with 3 holes in it. If you are not happy with this carburetor, you may need that old BBD back ( I doubt that will happen if you start with a healthy Motorcraft.)

5. Throttle return spring – I found that mounting the original downward pulling throttle return spring caused binding as it wrapped around the shaft. I instead fabricated a small bracket to bolt to a front bolt of the carb base to relocate the spring to the front.

6. Vacuum hoses – The motorcraft has two ported outlets. One on the front, just outside (to drivers side) of the drivers side venturi idle control screw. I used this ported outlet for my distributor. There is also a ported outlet on the passenger side of the carb base. I am not sure if there is any difference between these two. Mark all hoses you remove from the Carter BBD and connect them back up to the corresponding ports on the MC 2100. The only connection missing from the MC 2100 I used, compared to the Carter BBD is the vapour line running from above the float bowl to the charcoal canister for the collection of evaporated gas fumes. I would suggest plugging this line that ran back to the canister, as the MC 2100 vents the float bowl into the air cleaner housing.

7. PCV – There is a large PCV inlet port on the rear of the carb at the base. If you are looking in the junkyard for a MC2100 be sure that the version you take home is not an older one missing this port.

8. Idle Adjustment – Like most other carburetors there are two screws on the front base to adjust the mixture. Turning them in leans out the idle mixture. Never seat these screws with a lot of pressure at they are needles which will distort and damage the soft metal of the carburetor. I would start with around 2 turns out on each screw and adjust equally from there using a vacuum gauge attached to manifold vacuum to adjust for peak lean vacuum. In other words, turn them out till you get maximum vacuum, then turn them in till it starts to drop off, and back them out slightly from that point to regain peak vacuum. This carburetor is very forgiving for idle adjustments, so don’t sweat it.

9. Choke – There was an electric choke assisted by exhaust gas on both of the MC2100 I looked at. I tried the Motorcraft electric choke and it did not seem to work well so I used the Carter BBD’s electric choke by removing and reversing the bi-metal coil inside. This worked well till temperatures hit –30 degrees and I switched to a manual choke. I found the electric came off too fast in these cold temperatures and annoyingly came back on after short stops. The manual choke works well.


10. Fuel line inlet – The original fuel line will work fine. You may want to replace the short metal section that screws into the float bowl with a brass fitting.


11. Ford Base plate – There is a cast aluminum base plate with a vacuum operated EGR assembly on it. These are common in the junkyards. As the oem gasket covers all of the bottom of the carburetor except the venturi openings I did not use the Ford base plate. I picked one up from the junkyard just in case. Using it will require lengthening the throttle linkage rod to compensate for its thickness.

12. Miscellaneous – The rebuilt carburetor I used has a small spring on the float assembly shaft which I am told is used to dampen the float movement for rough conditions. The other MC2100 I have for parts does not have this spring on the pivot shaft. Jets are probably available from Ford. They are the same size as used on the 4 barrel motorcrafts. After a winter’s driving I have examined the spark plugs and am happy with the jetting which is #47’s. Both MC2100’s from 304 AMC’s I have seen came equipped with #47 jets. I have found that for my application the accelerator pump linkage works best set to the third hole down from the top (of four holes) on the arm at the throttle shaft. It’s easy to tinker with to verify of this works best for you.

Tim Martin

Originally posted by 1MutCJ7


Where.......How........more details!

:beer:

I'd imagine he got one form the boneyard, and rebuilt it.
And got an adapter plate. (if needed)

FWIW I got a remanned one from an old ford 302 for $170 or so.

Linkage is subjective...mine out of an old 302 van is slightly different than others I've seen, so you need to get the carb, adapter plate, and bolt it in, and thne figure the linkage out.

If you can pull one, rebuild it...take off the old POS, and bolt on new stuff...you can figure out linkage, and fuel hook up.

Also mine has an exhaust gas choke...I just hooked up a manual one...much better anyway IMO.

Otherwise there are a million write ups on this.

www.google.com

USE IT. :D

MJ

it's time to go 4 barrel :D

Go with that motorcraft!!! Did it on mine and have had no problems with angles since, not to mention it idles like a new motor. Search online for motorcraft 2100. There are lots of good links with detailed pictures etc. I got a rebuilt one from autozone from a 79 ford E-van. Weber is too much $$ for the same thing.

I just picked up my 2100 for $25 at a PnP and rebuild kit a a carb shop for only $30.

TMartin
Thanks for the info on the adapter plate and linkage.

I did the motorcraft 2100 conversion on my 258 but still didn't like the performance.. I bought a TBI kit from www.customefis.com and have been completely satisfied.... The jeep runs awesome..