I am helping a friend build a bumper for his sammy. Frame rails are 4" OD? I'm thinking some c-channel with a 4" ID, then cut the ends and cap them, and add some flat tabs for mounting to the frame? What do you guys do with the signal lights in the bumper? I don't have a torch yet, so cutting holes in the bumper will be a PITA...

Anyone got any pics showing how you made your bumper?

Just looking for ideas for a simple desigh here (though it will have a winch mount, and he wants to weld his existing brush guard to the bumper as well.

Thanks,
Phil
BTW - I tried the search :flipoff2:

Originally posted by 1TONTJ
I am helping a friend build a bumper for his sammy. Frame rails are 4" OD? I'm thinking some c-channel with a 4" ID, then cut the ends and cap them, and add some flat tabs for mounting to the frame? What do you guys do with the signal lights in the bumper? I don't have a torch yet, so cutting holes in the bumper will be a PITA...

Anyone got any pics showing how you made your bumper?

Just looking for ideas for a simple desigh here (though it will have a winch mount, and he wants to weld his existing brush guard to the bumper as well.

Thanks,
Phil
BTW - I tried the search :flipoff2:


front turn signals? I put mine in the grill

Front or rear?

For lights, since it's a typical foreign wiring you will need to run a separate signal light (load) for the flasher to work. I've used the truck style push in round amber marker lights. To mount these all you need to have is a hole saw. You can also get TTS (tail turn stop) round lights which can also be mounted with just a hole saw. :D:D

You will probably find that the marker light bulb does not provide as much load as the original light so the flasher is very fast (yes just backwards from US cars). I've found an Autozone electronic flasher that I modified to correct the flash rate. If anyone would like that info (or knows of one that works as is) let me know. I can get details tonight.... :D

Another suggestion, you can get these foreign converters for trailers. You could wire this into the rear and use it's output to drive a combination TTS light and forgo the amber marker/signal light. (?Has anyone tried this? Does the flasher work correctly?) I did something similar to this on my front, to combine marker and signal into one light using relays, however the relays have proved to be problematic... :( A solid state circuit would be better, but I don't want to mess with a breadboard… :barf:

I am looking for front bumper ideas. Thanks,
Phil

I built this one from 2x6 1/4 wall, The ends are angled back about 25* and then there is diamond plate on the top.

Here's what I built without using a torch for cutting. Used a sawzall, chop saw, Mig, drill bits and hole saws, etc. took a lot longer than with a torch but I've never used one so I have to get by this way. I'm going to get a plasma cutter soon...

Here's the over all look of the bumper:

http://root.moose.ca/~chris/images/DCP_0293.jpg

And the corner:

http://root.moose.ca/~chris/images/DCP_0295.jpg

The bumper "body" is 1/8" 2" x 4" square tube, the sides are 1/8" 2" x 2" square tube and the corners are 1-7/8" bar stock. The shackle mounts are 1" x 3.5" bar stock cut to shape and welded through the tube. You might notice that the "tangs" that mount the bumper inside the frame rails are longer than anything you could get away with on a samurai - my truck is a LWB SJ-413 so I have about 12" of hollow frame rail on the back end to insert into and bolt through.

The receiver tube is standard 2" size receiver tube, the holes are for the tail lights and the one right beside the receiver is for the trailer plug.

I love my Lincoln SP-175. :)

Heres mine: 2"x5"x3/16ths box tubing, forklift taillights, swingaway gas and spare rack....

Rocky Road Outfitters has a DIY bumper for about $50~the light holes are already cut and it's a nice solid bumper, worth a look:)

Originally posted by bb88
Rocky Road Outfitters has a DIY bumper for about $50~the light holes are already cut and it's a nice solid bumper, worth a look:)

Yeah, the only problem is that since he is in Canada it would cost him about $200 to get $10 worth of steel with a few holes drilled in it across the border.

Our dollar is only worth $0.60 USD but inside the country a dollar is a dollar if you know what I mean. A $10 restaurant meal in the US costs $10 here also, but in CDN metric dollars.

Originally posted by Root Moose

inside the country a dollar is a dollar if you know what I mean. A $10 restaurant meal in the US costs $10 here also, but in CDN metric dollars.

Yeah, I'm always amazed what the Americans pay for a bumper, or gear set-up, or raw materials, or parts, or whatever. Stuff is nice and cheap up here in Canada :D

Phil

Originally posted by 1TONTJ


Yeah, I'm always amazed what the Americans pay for a bumper, or gear set-up, or raw materials, or parts, or whatever. Stuff is nice and cheap up here in Canada :D

Phil

IF you can get what you want. :trooper: It's a great place to be if you are a fully engaged shade tree howler monkey though. For what these guys pay for really nice bolt on bumpers we can almost buy enough steel to build a whole car.

Yes, I'm exaggerating - maybe. :)

Originally posted by Root Moose


IF you can get what you want. :trooper: It's a great place to be if you are a fully engaged shade tree howler monkey though. For what these guys pay for really nice bolt on bumpers we can almost buy enough steel to build a whole car.

Yes, I'm exaggerating - maybe. :)

I think I could build a whole chassis and two bumpers, and a swing out for the price of one (not)Bulletproof Bumper ;)

Phil

Here is the one I have on mine,simple and functional.
There is a piece of solid cold rolled the length of that round tube that goes fron frame rail to frame rail that has 3, 1/2"-13 holes tapped at the center of the frame rails and in the center.
The 3" x 1/4" angle iron bolts to these holes, the reciever is welded thru the 3" and a cap welded to the back. a bolt is attached to the tubr at that point. The 2" x 3" x 1/4" square tube was cut, bent, welded, capped, and then welded to the 3" angle.
There is room for a winch at a latter date, and nothing is welded to or cut from the frame rails.
Done ...