I am trying to get some lift out of some springs. I added a leaf, but the ride seems harst and they didn't seen to flex well. Would I be better off with blocks (~2.5-3"), I have to build a traction bar anyway?

I've always hated lift blocks since I found an abandoned late model bronco on a fairly easy hill climb with one of the lift blocks cracked in two allowing the rear axle to just sorta flop wherever it wanted. Passenger side tire when forward into the passenger side door, driver side was sorta chilling by the tail light.

Looked like a nice long walk home too.

Being a fellow college student on a budget, I know the feeling of really needing some extra clearance, but saving up the cash for some decent springs was the best decision I made. Now if only I could do something about my gay ass 31s.... :rolleyes:

Don't ever use blocks in the front.

Don't stack blocks in the rear.

Just follow those two rules and you'll be fine. Also, check your shocks for bind and be sure to tighten up u-bolts after 100 miles or so.

N E V E R use blocks on a front axle. Never. I would discourage you from using them in the rear either. If you use blocks to save $ and then have to build/buy anti-wrap bar(s), you are not saving any money. IMHO, if you have to build a mega-beefy anti-wrap system to keep your rear from hopping or twisting, you're running in place. I used rear blocks when I first got into wheeling a couple years ago. They slipped on me and I wrecked two sets of rear springs. If you think about it from a simple engineering standpoint, with blocks, you have a small, narrow area that supports a transverse load with minimal duffusive (spreading out the load) surface and the block acts as a torsional/pivot point. Extra leaves support the load through the entire length of the movement radius. Its like the difference netween raising a vehicle with a bottle jack jack or a hydraulic shop lift; which one is more likely to drop the load on your face? Bite the bullet and save up for new springs or build your own pack. It is possoble to get great flex, even with a thick pack. My rears are a 5 leaf Alcan/Mazda/2wd Toy hybrid with no overload (91 Toy flatbed, light ass end) and they flex better than OEMs. I've compared them on my ghetto-fab RT ramp. I can get away w/ no overload because I never haul more that 300lbs in the back, but you can still get great flex even w/ an overload. Oh yeah, also want to echo what Kreep said about re-torquing u-bolts after 100 miles, very important and I do it every 50, at least three times and check torque at every LOF. Part of the reason I had disasters with my rears is my dumb newbie ass didn't check the twist on my u-bolts.