Here are the before and after pics.

Here you see how far down the stock skidplate hangs down.
http://img11.exs.cx/img11/9131/MVC-004F2.jpg

And the new flat one! :grinpimp:
http://img11.exs.cx/img11/2714/MVC-012F1.jpg

http://img10.exs.cx/img10/339/MVC-013F.jpg

http://img11.exs.cx/img11/1718/MVC-015F.jpg

The new skid is made out of 1/4" steel. I still have to make a few more mods to it, trim the sides to be flush with the frame, bracing with some box tube & trans mount. I'm also planning on counter sunk bolts if I can find some that are grade 5.

Anyone know where I can get some grade 5 coutersunk allen head bolts?

Hodie :smokin:

Looks good. But why such a big whole in the floor :confused:

Looks good. But why such a big whole in the floor :confused:
the whole of the hole is still a hole unless the whole thing was a boo boo :laughing:

Any interference with the driveshaft and tranny?

lookin good! :D thats almost EXACTLY how my floor looked when i did the clock.

what are u guys doing with the front drive shaft. do you need to cv it or will clear. my scrambler is soa with the 44044's and i'm afraid the the ujoints will bottom out at full droup. Thanks
Kory

Any interference with the driveshaft and tranny?

Yeah same question.....
That´s a TF999 right ?

i haven't had any problems with my scrambler.....although i am getting a chatter between 45 and 55 mph specifically.....if anyone can answer that let me know!!!


Is the the Ken Blume clocking ring??

I used blumes kit, it worked well, got the 300 flat, did you have to use the sleeve in this application??

i had to use the additional sleeve for the seal engagement

>> Skid Project...where to get grade5 countersunk bolts?

Looks nice. I got my hardened flathead allen machine screws from McMaster-Carr
www.mcmaster.com

Look up "socket cap screws" and you'll find lots of choices...

Vance

no driveshaft problems for me.

46rh OD.

SOA stock leafs.

as for countersunk bolts... I wasnt going to settle with ANY kind of fastener on the bottom. Its gonna get fawked. I dont care what it is. a countersunk is going to be worse than anything. once its screwed up you cant even get a vice grip on it.

Bolt it from the side. no worries.

sceep, do you have a write up on your project? I would like to see it.

sceep, do you have a write up on your project? I would like to see it.


no official writeup per say. but it was all covered here in a bunch of different threads... search jeep forum with my name and it should all come up about 2 years ago.

sceep, do you have a write up on your project? I would like to see it.


x2

more pics would be supatits :smokin:

here ya go guys I uploaded some pics for you.

http://www.dana60.com/sceep/jeep

sillyneck

That's awesome. I like your tranny mount too. Makes a lot more sense that what Jeep used.

That's awesome. I like your tranny mount too. Makes a lot more sense that what Jeep used.


i wouldnt build the tranny mount the same again. Its a PITFA to get the driveline out.

Are you guys running stock engines?.
Did you have to raise the engine to run that flat, or do you just angle the drivetrain up, from the engine back to the T case?

I have a flat skid on mine. I had to drop the mount spot an inch or so for the np435 adapter to fit and made my own mount. I am running a stock 2.5 with the 1in. motor mounts and it still angles down front to back a little. The np231 is clocked up flat and I am running a front cv shaft. I also bent the plate around the frame so I wouldnt have bolts sticking down from the bottom.

When I did mine, I put a piece of 1" x 2" rectangular tube down the frame rails, then welded 1/4" plate to that. All my bolt heads are countersunk up into the rectangular tube, so there is nothing exposed to get 'wiped' off. Plus, with having the 1" x 2" tube on the frame rails, it is low enough to clear everything, and not have any 'drops' in it anywhere. Sceep - have you noticed any problems hanging up on that small drop you have in yours?

I could send pics of mine if someone would be willing to put them up....

Has anybody got the front shaft to clear using and auto and flat pan? It looks like sceeps works because he has the wider front axle (pumpkin farther to the passenger side). Anybody else got this to work with normal axles.

arndog

Mine will, but I'm going to end up using a two-piece front shaft. 700r4 w/D300 in mine.

I'll let you know. It looks like I am going to be doing some hammering tonight, and see if I can clear enough room for t-case. I may lower the t-case and see what I can do with placement of the driveshaft. I do know that the skinny shaft that I tried to use seemed to work pretty well.

When I did mine, I put a piece of 1" x 2" rectangular tube down the frame rails, then welded 1/4" plate to that. All my bolt heads are countersunk up into the rectangular tube, so there is nothing exposed to get 'wiped' off. Plus, with having the 1" x 2" tube on the frame rails, it is low enough to clear everything, and not have any 'drops' in it anywhere. Sceep - have you noticed any problems hanging up on that small drop you have in yours?

I could send pics of mine if someone would be willing to put them up....
I would like to see this, but I don't have a way to host a pic to post it here. can you e-mail it to me?

Yeah - I thought I already had some of my skid on Imagestation, but I guess not. Let me try and get some tonight, and I'll mail them to ya. The skid turned out pretty slick, I think.

Yeah same question.....
That´s a TF999 right ?

It's a 727 & the DS clears.

i haven't had any problems with my scrambler.....although i am getting a chatter between 45 and 55 mph specifically.....if anyone can answer that let me know!!!


Is the the Ken Blume clocking ring??

I used blumes kit, it worked well, got the 300 flat, did you have to use the sleeve in this application??

i had to use the additional sleeve for the seal engagement

Yeah, I had to use the sleve and I also RTV'd everthing.

Here are the countersunk socket head bolts. I got them at Automotive Fasteners.

http://img31.exs.cx/img31/6042/MVC-014F2.jpg

:grinpimp:

man that looks pretty good, I'm doing the same thing to my 5 right now. Do you have any kind of bracing on the tranny side of the plate? I was thinking of trying to get mine perfectly flat like that. Did you get into any problems with the front driveshaft wanting to hit on full droop?

Thanks man, I will be welding some box tubing in the center of the skid to stiffen things up. I will also be notching the front of the skid for the front DS.

:grinpimp:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid130/p36021e370273739422784fd6407a50cd/f7bf21a7.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid130/pc850b68d14e6120362274feb2515d328/f7bf21ba.jpg

Should have extended it forward a little more to protect the tranny pan a little better.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid130/p7e13bd9878e95d0336306e5efa266654/f7bf21be.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid130/p8c420791f0c63763b6b76f1dc3ccb425/f7bf21a3.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid130/pc16a2c1977640395735a21e9879526bf/f7bf21b8.jpg

The holes are 7/16" thru one wall of the 1" x 2" rectangular tube, then a 1" hole through the 1/4" plate, which lays over and is welded to the opposing wall of the rectangular tube. I also have a strip of 1/4" x 2" flatbar on top of the rectangular tube (against the frame rail) to help shim the skid down a bit - it was too close to the tranny pan.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid130/p8dfdfdf3815a47cb24a6f9937a1c5608/f7bf21cf.jpg

This way, I can remove the skidplate completely seperate from my cross member, by just removing six bolts. I may put some rectangular tube across the top side of the skid to help stiffen it up a bit. Even though it's 1/4" plate, it flexes a little too much for my liking.

I don't think you can do it in the front, but you ought to try to use a piece of 1-1.5" angle and weld it with the point up. For the front, to cover the tranny, get a larger piece of angle and have it wrap in front and under the skid. This should protect it for you.

Just a thought, but I am looking at doing this. Angle is cheap and very rigid.

Heres a pic of the skid I built about 5 years ago.
I also added a small turned up lip on the forward leading edge, sometime after this pic was taken.
http://tellico.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/53-410000-Mvc-004s.jpg

This skid was fabbed from 1/4" plate, and has held up great,(but it weighs about 100+lbs).
I am currently still running it, but i had to modify it to sit slightly lower when I lowered my drivetrain a few inches to improve my C og G.

Here is a pic of the skid after I modified it to allow the drivetrain to be positioned for improved C of G.
You might not think that lowering your engine and drivetrain a couple of inches makes a big improvement, in stability, but it really does.
I would take superior stability over trying to keep the belly pan even with the frame rails any day of the week. As long as you keep the skid plate smooth so that it can transition over objects, you can always find a way to get over something, but if your C of G is too high, you will struggle on everything steep,...gravity is relentless.
http://tellico.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/887759-Mvc-018s.jpg

Nice skids Monday & Olblue. :grinpimp: I'll post up more pics of mine tomorrow....I should get a lot done.

Hodie