Hey I'm doing some foolin' around in CAD designing a SWEET 4-link, and was wondering if you would do me a favor. Measure from the ground to your framerails. I can figure the difference of 33's vs. 35's

This is one of the few measurements I can't get accurate until my set-up is done and since I can't work on my rig right now, I can't get it.

I think I will have to trim my fenders, You have stock width axles which makes your tire go inside your fender wells, my full widths will make my tire go INTO MY FENDER, so trimming will be in order for sure.

PS: how much lift did you end up with?

Thanks for the info. Oh and nice ramp pics, that stock suspension will stay on mine after all (for now anyway ;) ):beer:

Hey Cliff..I have a stupid of-topic question. My buddy just got me Auto cad 2k and it is a MF to work with...Usually, I can figure out most applications. When you are starting a new drawing, what is the base sheet that you use? (I'm thinking that I am using the wrong one)

TIA,
Joel

Scout Dude, I guess I might have come off as though I know a lot about CAD, but I don't. This is the first CAD I've ever touched, it cost me $30.00 at staples. I don't believe I can help you. SORRY:(

PS: My cheap ass CAD program is a BEAR also...It's taken me 5 days, and all i have done is two tires, and a radius arm :rolleyes:

OK cool...so I'm not the only one who can't figure this crap out...Thanks for the info.

It's been awhile since I've used Auto CAD for other than playing. The version I have is the old Rev 12. But I might be able to help you out. I use templates to start all drawings, the templates are based on paper sizes, A for 8x11, I also have legal setup. I can send you the templates I have but I'm not sure if you'd be able to import them into AC 2K as they are a couple of revs down. The templates have the proper 'extents' set for the page size, makes life easier. The templates also help you size, and keep the drawing in a workable field. When I work on drawings, I always work in decimal by tens. I.E. if the part is 62" by 14", I'll use 6.2 and 1.4 clicks in CAD. 1/8" wall becomes .012.

Once you learn the commands you'll start to move faster. Learn the key commands for each function, so you use one hand on the keyboard and one on the mouse. Does the left button still act as a return key? I also use ISO mode to setup the outer perimeter of part, then use offset and trim to start to form the part. Set your snaps for Intersection and End point. That will help allot when setting up the part.

Hope this helps, if you have some specific Q's send em my way and I'll try to help, but remember I'm used to using a version a couple of Revs behind what you are using.

Joe

Originally posted by jdjanda
It's been awhile since I've used Auto CAD for other than playing. The version I have is the old Rev 12. But I might be able to help you out. I use templates to start all drawings, the templates are based on paper sizes, A for 8x11, I also have legal setup. I can send you the templates I have but I'm not sure if you'd be able to import them into AC 2K as they are a couple of revs down. The templates have the proper 'extents' set for the page size, makes life easier. The templates also help you size, and keep the drawing in a workable field. When I work on drawings, I always work in decimal by tens. I.E. if the part is 62" by 14", I'll use 6.2 and 1.4 clicks in CAD. 1/8" wall becomes .012.

Once you learn the commands you'll start to move faster. Learn the key commands for each function, so you use one hand on the keyboard and one on the mouse. Does the left button still act as a return key? I also use ISO mode to setup the outer perimeter of part, then use offset and trim to start to form the part. Set your snaps for Intersection and End point. That will help allot when setting up the part.

Hope this helps, if you have some specific Q's send em my way and I'll try to help, but remember I'm used to using a version a couple of Revs behind what you are using.

Joe


Hey Joe...thx for the info..my AC has about 30-40 templates so they seemed to have changed from your version to the current one. I'll see if there is one that matches the one that you mentioned.

OK NO MORE CAD TALK, WHERE THE HELL IS HOOPER?!?!:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
OK NO MORE CAD TALK, WHERE THE HELL IS HOOPER?!?!:flipoff2:

Sorry Cliff...If it helps any...my floor to frame measurment is ~30" with 36's :flipoff2:

Scout Dude, are you DOA?? if so yes that does help:beer:


OOPS I mean SOA :emb4:

I'm DOA alright....I'm SOA too with the 2.5" waggy fronts and stock Land rover rears with a 3" block and Some minor fender. Remember though...none of my Spring mounts are in their stock location...I really have no idea how tall I am over stock.

Let's see you're SOA with 2.5" springs with 3" blocks under stock LR springs using none of the factory mounts; so.... NO that doesn't help :flipoff2: and by the way NO :beer: for you!!!!

O Yeah...I have a first generation Scout too...not a Scout II :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Sorry. I was goofing off and actually working for a change.

Top of axle tube to...


bottom of front bump stop bracket: 9"
bottom of front frame: 12" (Lots of room to raise bump stop if needed, but I run my spring into my drag link as it is)

bottom of bump stop bracket rear: 11.5"

Axle tube is 3" thick. 33" tire measures 32". So, I have 16" from middle of tube to ground (a little less because tire flattens out a little) plus half an inch to top of tube, so add 17" to each of these to get frame height measurements.

That makes it 26" from ground to bottom of front bump stop bracket.
29" to bottom of frame where front bump stop bracket mounts.
29" to bottom of frame where rear bump stop mounts also.


I did not drive my scout today, so I cannot crawl under there and measure, but I will measure tonight.

Frame height is less critical than axle to frame clearances though. There is plenty of room below the axle for your tires. It is the area between the axle height and frame height that gets tight.

That's actually a lot of good numbers, but I'm just wondering about the ground to the middle of the framerail is all. I can figure the rest with measurements from my scoutII

So if you could get me THAT measurement I'd be grateful, since it looks like you have the closest set-up to what I plan to do.
Minus the 2" body lift

Thanks.

I'll throw my $.02 in for the h... of it.
Are you trying to get lift or keep your COG down. We have planned my suspension to sit as low as we can with a SOA. But I am the only one I have heard of running Ford leaf springs. The front are 1968 Ford 1/2 ton 2wd, v8, 4 spd, blue with dent in the right front fender. Seriously the front springs are like 53 inches long, 2 1/4 inches wide and should run real flat. I have enough extra leafs and AAL to make it as stiff as a Kenworth.

I was thinking about buggy suspension with 4 link in the back but I noticed that many of the winners at the rock crawl were still running SOA set ups.

Plus since I still plan to have a daily driver / trail rig/ rock crawler / ..... I wanted to keep it simple. Just full custom suspension. The most important part is moving the front axle forward 4" and the rear axle 3" aft.

This will allow for larger tires and less cutting in structure, just sheet metal. Besides sheet metal is far over rated.

Just determine how much travel you want to create and work on the design from your desires.

Good Luck
Ritch

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
That's actually a lot of good numbers, but I'm just wondering about the ground to the middle of the framerail is all. I can figure the rest with measurements from my scoutII

So if you could get me THAT measurement I'd be grateful, since it looks like you have the closest set-up to what I plan to do.
Minus the 2" body lift

Thanks.

18 inches net net. Hmmm, let me see.

Center of hub is at 15 1/2". Hub is 3" high. Top of axle is then at 17". Bottom of frame is at 18".... Bottom of frame is one inch higher than top of axle. Where am I going with this.... I have no idea. Bottom of mufflers are about even with frames. T-case is about 2 inches higher than frame. Tranny cross member is about even with frame....

Anyway. 18' from ground to frame on 33" tires that net out to 32 inches right now.

I still say a better measurement for you is the distance from the middle of the axle tube, or the top of the axle tube, to the frame. Or, you could compare your eventual net suspensionlift to mine by measuring how high the bottom of your axle tube is, measure the height of your frame rail, then subtract the bottom of your tube from the bottom of the rail.

middle of my axle tube is 15 1/2' inches. Bottom of tube then is 14 inches. Bottom of my frame is 18" from ground. That means the bottom of my frame is 4" higher than the bottom of the axle tubes, or it is 1" higher than the top of my axle tubes. Measure that and it will give you a good idea of how much clearance you will have compared to how mine ended up.

Don't know if any of this is useful information..... :D

Thanks HOOPER:beer: