Although I have a TJ, I thought this would be a better place to post this thread. This weekend is my scheduled ARB install weekend, all seems straight forward, from the look's of things.

I'm hopeing someone who's already done an install on Dana 30 and Dana 44 axles can either give me a site to referance or an educated estimate, suggesting what amount of preload/backlash shim's to start off with. I do not have my own press, so I'm hoping to get it first shot so I don't have to keep doing it.

Any other suggestions from those in the know, who've been there done that.... would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
Paul B
98 TJ Sahara

Have you read the instructions that came with the locker? I would HIGHLY suggest you read them 2 times before Friday.... THEN decide if you can still schedule this install before you get knee deep in something you can't get finished.

There is no way to tell you what shims you will need. It is different for every axle. If memory serves, I set mine at .010 for backlash for a dana 44. If you want to get it right the first-ish time... buy two extra carrier bearings (or just 1 for the ARB) and hone them out on the inside so they slip on to the carrier. This way you can set the backlash, by removing the carrier bearing(s) by hand until you have it correctly shimmed. Do you know how to set pinion depth?! Once you have the backlash set correctly with the "setup bearings" you can add 1 or however many you need shim to each side then press on the real bearings. This should give you the correct backlash and preload. Then keep the setup bearings for a buddy to use at a later date.

DRM, thanks... I've had them for two week's and been researching since, I'm sure I'll finish :D, not that much different than doing gears with the exception of the housing tapping and bearing cap hole.

Aggro, GREAT Idea with the extra bearings. I can use the one's on my stock carrier to test since I won't need them again (I actually may alread have an old set from when I regeard and istalled the axle (:)), that'll save a ton of time. Appreciate the advice.

Paul B
98 TJ Sahara

Originally posted by Paul B
bearing cap hole.
[/B] this is the part that will bite ya in the ass someday. I wouldnt waste your time with that hole.There is a much better way to do it then that stupid picture your looking at

GearMan would you like to share that better way, since that's the part that looks most difficult, I'm open to suggestion?

Paul B

Originally posted by GearMan
this is the part that will bite ya in the ass someday. I wouldnt waste your time with that hole.There is a much better way to do it then that stupid picture your looking at

Yeah, do share.. and let me know if it is applicable on the Dana 60 ARB I will be installing in a few weeks ;)

i would share that info but this is a public forum and i cant let all my secrets out heheheheeh :flipoff2: but i will say this NOTCH the cap fawk that hole thing.if you call me at work 916-852-7109 i can explain it better then typeing it out. and it is for all dana models

Please! Please!Please! Mine goes in Saturday!!

Thats as close to groveling as I can get and still retain my pride. :D

Notch the cap.....GET IT

What is the difference in notching and drilling a hole? Seems baout the same amount fo work to me :confused:

Originally posted by DRM
What is the difference in notching and drilling a hole? Seems baout the same amount fo work to me :confused: When you are done you tell me what is easier:flipoff2: and trust me you dont want to ruin your parts if you dont get it right that 0-ring seal houesing is 45 bucks when you fawk it up trust me i no this too hehehe:D although after fawking it up you will now have a cool tool to do the rest :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

I feel notching the cap weakens it too much... I always drill. Yes it's a bigger pain but I feel it is the "correct" way to do it. try drilling, if you screw up, then notch!

Originally posted by Aggro
I feel notching the cap weakens it too much... I always drill. Yes it's a bigger pain but I feel it is the "correct" way to do it. try drilling, if you screw up, then notch! and tell me why you feel this way? how is notching it worse then drilling it?either way you compromise the integrity of the cap, and in many cases it is not the load carrying cap.It only carries the load in a std.cut front or a rev.cut rear. and i have never seen a cap fail from a ARB install

Don't worry guys, Gearman promised me an ARB install tech article... Didn't you, Gearman? :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Lance
Don't worry guys, Gearman promised me an ARB install tech article... Didn't you, Gearman? :flipoff2: how much does that PAY again. did we come to terms yet :flipoff2:

Originally posted by GearMan
and tell me why you feel this way? how is notching it worse then drilling it?either way you compromise the integrity of the cap, and in many cases it is not the load carrying cap.It only carries the load in a std.cut front or a rev.cut rear. and i have never seen a cap fail from a ARB install

Don't be offended, I'm not saying it's wrong or right, I just feel that way. Just my opinion. I have seen a cap fail because of what I see as too much material being removed. And I'd say a high percentage af axles in 4by rigs are just what you describe...hi pinion rears and std. fronts. It's exactly what I run!
Relax, I'm nobody and it's just how I personally do things.!!

I think I'll attempt the drilling first, if worse comes to worse it's easy to decide to notch once (or if) the drilling fail's....

Paul B

Originally posted by Paul B
I think I'll attempt the drilling first, if worse comes to worse it's easy to decide to notch once (or if) the drilling fail's....

Paul B


That is the way I see it... drill the hole, and enlarge it if you are off... seems about the same either way :p

you usually find out that you are off about the time you break the tube off of the ring. I am a proponent of notching the cap.

Zag's and others.... wouldn't oversizing the whole help with both alighning the the tube to the whole and preventing tube damage??

Paul B

Maybe it's just me, but I'd listen to the guy who's done probably over a 1000 ARB installs (Gearman) over any of these other chumps. :flipoff2::D:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Lance
Maybe it's just me, but I'd listen to the guy who's done probably over a 1000 ARB installs (Gearman) over any of these other chumps. :flipoff2::D:flipoff2:

Not to say anything about GearMan and his abilities, but I know plenty of people who can do something wrong 1000 times in a row... doesn't necesarliy mean they are qualified to give advice ;)

Paul B:

I just did an ARB with a friend in October. We regeared at the same time. A couple of notes:

Doing this without a press sucks. We used a cheapo harbor freight press (about $100 IIRC) and this helped immensely. We wrestled with setting the Pinion depth about 10 times before we were comfortable with it. Lots of mixing and matching shims to get it right. I think I ended up at .058 ish on that, but this number means nothing to you because all of them are different.

Notch the bearing cap. It's easier to move the air tube around and out of the way, plus it's a pain to keep the drill bit from sliding on the curved surface, even with a drill press.

Get comforable using a magnetic mount dial gauge when setting your backlash. Yes, its just a front axle and backlash might not be as critical as the rear, but we spent the time to get it right.

I was a gear newbie before this. My friend had set up 10-15 gears and a few ARBs before this. Still, it took both of us from 8AM to 9PM. Granted, we crack our first beer at 8:15, but still this is something that you might want to re-think doing yourself vs. paying someone 300 to do it for you.

HTH

SeanP

Thanks SeanP for the info, it all helps. I'm comfortable with the install, just wanna know the things to look out for, and I've gotten a ton from this post. I did my 4.56's when I swapped in my rear 44 last December, the ARB's on the gear side will be no different.

Paul B