The ac in Elisa's lwb has always blown chilly air...until yesterday...and I'm not sure where to start looking.
my first thought was it just needed a charge as she has put on 214,000 miles w/o any a/c work at all, and bought a r-12 to 134a retrofit kit, but while thinking about it, am not sure if that is the issue,as it didn't slowly stop cooling, it went from icy to suddenly warm air when we started up engine and drove three minutes or so...wierd!


- the fan blower switch is kinda squirrily needs to be jiggled to make work, but that shouldn't cause issue...should it?

- on start if a/c is on, it would squeal for a few seconds, like a belt issue, which I was about to look into before this happened, but appears ok now...but didn't notice a squel this am...hmm!

I checked things out to comfirm the clutch was engaging, and it is, but not as I would expect.....when you turn on the a/c with fan off, nothing, but when you turn on the fan with ac on or fresh air or whatever it engages teh clutch. it this correct? doesn't make sense to me. I don't think the disco works teh same way, but is different systems

confused and sweating in the heat in Fresno....

I am about to go to a shop to habve them purge the r-12 out in the morning, and than come home and installt ehretro kit, but am not altogether sure that is teh problem...on rangerovers.net there are all sorts of comments about thermostats going bad, and needing to replace the reciever/dryer and expansion valve etc...

oh! and funny coincidence..at same time teh a/c in the disco blows cool on driver, but warm on passenger! Tom? did you rig this up for a reason long ago as it was too cool on a certain passenger when you wre not alone? :D never been a problem as I always drove alone, but now Elisa wants to come along on some adventures with me, but not w/o a/c in her face...will deal with this later...

Paul

can't help you with the lwb ,but the disco is one of 2 things either the control cable is bent, common problem and usually requires replacing the ac controls, or one of the flaps is warped and the dash will have to come out to fix it.

The ac in Elisa's lwb has always blown chilly air...until yesterday...and I'm not sure where to start looking.
my first thought was it just needed a charge as she has put on 214,000 miles w/o any a/c work at all, and bought a r-12 to 134a retrofit kit, but while thinking about it, am not sure if that is the issue,as it didn't slowly stop cooling, it went from icy to suddenly warm air when we started up engine and drove three minutes or so...wierd!


- the fan blower switch is kinda squirrily needs to be jiggled to make work, but that shouldn't cause issue...should it?

- on start if a/c is on, it would squeal for a few seconds, like a belt issue, which I was about to look into before this happened, but appears ok now...but didn't notice a squel this am...hmm!

I checked things out to comfirm the clutch was engaging, and it is, but not as I would expect.....when you turn on the a/c with fan off, nothing, but when you turn on the fan with ac on or fresh air or whatever it engages teh clutch. it this correct? doesn't make sense to me. I don't think the disco works teh same way, but is different systems

confused and sweating in the heat in Fresno....

I am about to go to a shop to habve them purge the r-12 out in the morning, and than come home and installt ehretro kit, but am not altogether sure that is teh problem...on rangerovers.net there are all sorts of comments about thermostats going bad, and needing to replace the reciever/dryer and expansion valve etc...

oh! and funny coincidence..at same time teh a/c in the disco blows cool on driver, but warm on passenger! Tom? did you rig this up for a reason long ago as it was too cool on a certain passenger when you wre not alone? :D never been a problem as I always drove alone, but now Elisa wants to come along on some adventures with me, but not w/o a/c in her face...will deal with this later...

Paul

:confused: Nope, worked for us

:confused: Nope, worked for us
yeah! figured that...I think the isue ther actually is maybe the cable end coming off the right dial, so not knowing to turn to cool..will check when getting back from bay area tomorrow...my only real concern right now is the LWB. after reading more, I am leaning towards the thermostad being bad...will need to tear open dash and check I guess..dang! may as well buy that new fan switch and install at same time so no more jiggling to get it to blow anything

Paul

ok, back in the heat of things again!
whew! still not working, and no ideas yet. you guys out there with any a/c experience have any suggestions of where to look first? I'm trying to determine what I should look at to test/replace etc first. am guessing I will be tearing teh dahs open tonight as soon as it cools down..

Paul



The ac in Elisa's lwb has always blown chilly air...until yesterday...and I'm not sure where to start looking.
my first thought was it just needed a charge as she has put on 214,000 miles w/o any a/c work at all, and bought a r-12 to 134a retrofit kit, but while thinking about it, am not sure if that is the issue,as it didn't slowly stop cooling, it went from icy to suddenly warm air when we started up engine and drove three minutes or so...wierd!


- the fan blower switch is kinda squirrily needs to be jiggled to make work, but that shouldn't cause issue...should it?

- on start if a/c is on, it would squeal for a few seconds, like a belt issue, which I was about to look into before this happened, but appears ok now...but didn't notice a squel this am...hmm!

I checked things out to comfirm the clutch was engaging, and it is, but not as I would expect.....when you turn on the a/c with fan off, nothing, but when you turn on the fan with ac on or fresh air or whatever it engages teh clutch. it this correct? doesn't make sense to me. I don't think the disco works teh same way, but is different systems

confused and sweating in the heat in Fresno....

I am about to go to a shop to habve them purge the r-12 out in the morning, and than come home and installt ehretro kit, but am not altogether sure that is teh problem...on rangerovers.net there are all sorts of comments about thermostats going bad, and needing to replace the reciever/dryer and expansion valve etc...

oh! and funny coincidence..at same time teh a/c in the disco blows cool on driver, but warm on passenger! Tom? did you rig this up for a reason long ago as it was too cool on a certain passenger when you wre not alone? :D never been a problem as I always drove alone, but now Elisa wants to come along on some adventures with me, but not w/o a/c in her face...will deal with this later...

Paul

Make sure your clutch is not slipping due to high mileage. I have removed shims in the past in order to close the gap a little bit for better engagement. You can do this by removing the belt, removing the big nut and working the clutch pulley out. You'll notice shims inside. I think the gap is supposed to be around .015" or so.

Also, are you noticing tiny bubbles in the little glass window on top of the receiver? I think you're supposed see them while the system is running.

If you do change it over to R134a, make sure you: 1) replace as many O rings as possible (condenser, receiver and compressor. Evaporator is hard to access) 2) evacuate the old oil out of the old system by blowing some air through it. Be sure to have very low press, around 15 psi 3) change the receiver with a new one 4) run some a/c retrofit cleaning fluid through the system 4a) remove the compressor and drain the old oil out of it and fill with the proper amount of esther oil 5) install the new receiver and have a shop evacuate and fill the system. 6) might be a good time to replace the hi/low press switches on top of the receiver. R134a systems have a different press setpoints that R12.

Good luck.

Get er done.

The 134a is the best way to fix it. You need gauges and experience or at least a book to find your problem. If you know someone who charges shocks with a Nitrogen bottle then use their Nitrogen bottle to pressurize the system and search for leaks. A freon gas sniffer or propane torch will help find the any leak as well as soapy water.

JP

Get er done.

The 134a is the best way to fix it. You need gauges and experience or at least a book to find your problem. If you know someone who charges shocks with a Nitrogen bottle then use their Nitrogen bottle to pressurize the system and search for leaks. A freon gas sniffer or :mad3: 'propane torch :mad3: will help find the any leak as well as soapy water.

JP



Italian lightning?