well, i hv narrowed down my blinker woes even further.
i hv checked all grounds, they are good. all lights hv good bulbs and work (brakes lights, running lights work).
1) left turn signal front and rear work.
2) hazards do not work unless u hv the left blinker on,
then all hazards work (front/back/left/right) and the left blinker continues to blink as well.
3) hazards/blinkers on right side on front/back do not work with or without hazard switch open.
anyone hv any ideas ? i am stumped, just about to start replacing switches.
sadler:mad3: :mad2: :mad3:

You either have a bad ground or some wires crossed. What year is your vessle? I had a similar problem with a 74 FJ40. It turned out that the front signal housings were extremely corroded where the housing bolts to the fender. I found this by accident, I got pissed because I spent a couple of hours chasing wires on a fawked up diagram, and was to the point of being stumped. I smacked the front housing out of frustration and the damned thing started to work. Took off the houging claened up the mounting stud, work like advertised! :D :skull:

how is it possiable that i hv a bad ground.
the running lights/blinkers use the same grounds...right ?
i tested them all and all seemed to work.
i guess i hv my wires crossed somewhere.
when i switch the turn signal switch to the right (non-working) the test light gives off a dim light, where as when i switch to right i get good light and blinking. does this help any ?
thanks for any info.
:zzz:

i am using the test light on the switch itself.
i hv opened the cover and placing the test light on the green wire connection.

What do you mean by the flashers don't work? No flash or the lights don't light at all?

An ohm meter in the 0-100 ohm range would be better than a simple conductivity light, since the most common problem with old land cruisers is a high resistance connections due to oxidiation/corrosion of some contact anywhere between the battery and ground. You are going to miss the problem if you just use a conductivity tester unless you notice the slight change in brightness of the bulb. It is often the ground, since steel oxidizes faster than brass or copper. Get the Toyota wiring schematic. Start measuring the resistance to ground starting at the light socket and work your way back up to the fuse box. You trace the wire by its color code. The resistance to ground at the socket should be less than 1 ohm and after you put the bulb back in the circuit, it should be whatever the resistance of the bulb plus 1 ohm. (the resistance of the bulb is something like 10-20 ohms) When you see the resistance jump up, then the bad connection is somewhere between the last two test points.

If you don't have an ohm meter that will work in this low range, you can also use a volt meter to measure the voltage drop across the connection. Turn the lights on. Start at the fuse box and measure the voltage at each connection shown in the schematic until you get to the bulb. When you find a connection that has a lower voltage than that measured at the fuse box, the bad connection is just up stream.

From your description, it is also possible (but not likely) that you have a short into another circuit that runs in the same cable bundle or a short to ground that is not sufficient to pop the fuse. Check for voltage in circuits that should not have any that come out of the switch, like look for voltage at the running lights when you have the R or L turn signal on.

fj40 9/69

- all running lights work.
- brake lights work.
- left turn signal light front/rear work.
- hazards work (all of em) when left turn signal is activated.
- hazards do not work without left turn signal activated.

right front and rear turn signals do not work.
neither does the reverse lights.

thanks for the help.
sean

Originally posted by sadler5000
fj40 9/69

- hazards do not work without left turn signal activated.

right front and rear turn signals do not work.

sean

Yes, but this does not answer the question in enough detail to be useful. By "not working" do you mean that they don't light up at all or that they light up and don't flash? Electrically it is a big difference.

The reverse light should be simple to diagnose, since there is only a wire from the fuse block, the switch on the tranny, the wire to the bulbs and the ground.

thanks reverse info noted. will just rewire, should be easy enough.

not working : when i turn the lever right to activate the right turn signal nothing happens. no blink, no flash, no click, etc.

if the running light are on, they stay on. no change in anything when i switch the right turn signal to the ON position.

sorry to be a pain, just feel like i hv put mucho hours into this problem and no solution in sight.

Originally posted by sadler5000

not working : when i turn the lever right to activate the right turn signal nothing happens. no blink, no flash, no click, etc.



Oh. Then disregard what I said above. I thought you meant they were on and didn't blink.

I'm looking at a schematic for a '76 and maybe it is like the '69. The 4ways get power from the stop light fuse (so that they work with the key off) via a green wire with a white stripe. Check for 12V where this wire enters the 4 way switch. If no voltage, check the connection of this same wire at the Stop fuse block. If there is voltage, then the switch is bad internally. Since the RH turns work with the 4way and the L turn switch on (presumably this requires the key to be on), the RH wires and bulbs are OK. This means the RH pole of the turn switch is bad or maybe any common connection from the switch pole to the RH bulbs if there is any. This would be a green wire with a yellow stripe. It makes sense that the 4ways would work with the L turn on if there is no power getting to the switch from the fuse block. If you have a schematic for the '69, see if it is the same situation as the '76.
HTH

Still sounds to me that you have a grounding issue. The front signals are gounded to the fender. The side turn signal lights also are grounded to the fender. I doubt that you have a bad flasher since one side of your flashers work.
If your checking for power at the bulb socket, you should get a bright test light indication. If it's dim, you have excessive resistance, bad ground.....
Your rear combination lights are also grounded seperately, to the frame. Believe me a ground connection might appear to look good, but all it takes is some rust to cause a break in the circuit.
Locate your grounds, disconnect, then clean the area with a wire brush or sandpaper. Bulb sockets also have a tendancy to build corrosion, which will also lead to a poor connection... Cruzahs are notorious for rust!!!:skull: