Ok, I have been reading for hours on the best way to design a control arm setup for a trail rig and daily driver. I have an XJ. I want to fab up my own long arms(front), RE style.

The question is... What ends are the best to use for a DD and for good travel? I was looking at heims but after checking out all the info on them they don't sound like a good option.

Johnny Joints?
http://128.121.255.231/purchase/product.asp?uid=&item=343

And I figure the best way to set up the arms would be to put each JJ on the frame end. Then to use rubber bushings on axle ends. Is there a better way? Will this provide enough articulation with one joint on a end? Enlighten me. Flame me. Whatever.
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If the JJ's are used, should I just weld a stud on the JJ and then weld a plug in the tube to thread it in? Is there an easier way?

Silly :rasta: maybe, but I need info. :confused:

I believe that's what Clayton did with his long arms. Johnny joints at the frame and rubbing bushings at the axle..

From what I've heard that worked well. I'd probably go a similar route. The johnny joint prices add up quickly though the more you use but they are good shit.

Man, I was gonna make the same post, cool. I was thinking put them at the frame end like ya said, or at the axle end (4) not sure what difference it would make other then on the wallet ($$) :)

BTW, 'spidertrax' has some cool pieces for people making thier own stuff...

Has anyone used the aurora tie rod ends? or have comments on those?

I asked Brent this same question about his long arms. Here is his reply

I'm using 2.5" Jonny joint ends from curry, bolth ends of the lower arms, 2" JJ's on the axle end of the uppers and a 3/4" heim where the uppers meet the lowers. there is a bracket that fits over the 2" JJ that is threaded into the upper arm (right hand thread) and the heim joint threads into the upper arm(left hand thread) so I loosen the jam nuts and adjust the length like a tie rod end. as not to be confusing, I've got the 2" JJ where your stock bushing on the axle would be, built it this way when I put the 44 under there. the lower arms get their adjustability from a 1" or 1.25" bolt welded to the body end JJ, then the lower arm is drilled and tapped to that bolt thread, and a jam nut tightens it, probably has at least 1" adjustment. upper to lower tabs I believe were 1/8" thick, with a 3/4" hole drilled in them and a bolt through them and the heim. I have no clue how long the upper arms are, and it dosen't matter, set the pinion caster angles with the jeep sitting at ride hight, and weld the upper arms to the lowers. its that easy.

Hope you dont mind me posting this Brent. ;) :D



;) ;)

I like Brent's setup, but I still don't understand why you need johnny joints at every point. Do you want/need the upperarms and lowerarms to have independent movement? I wouldn't think so. Why connect them if they need to move independent of each other. I would think joints at one end and bushings at the other would work best. But, I don't know shit :D . So Brent, jump in here man!

If you're going to make your own long arms, why do the radius arm style. Why not make upper and lower arms, basically the same length and as close to parallel as possible. This is the best way. The radius arms (ala RE and the old Bronocs) put a *tremendous* amount of twisting stress along the long axis of the axle tubes. For every degree of droop or compression at the wheel end of the axle there is a degree of long axis twist attempted along the axle tubes. I posted a writeup on this here a couple of months ago. RE uses large rubber bushings at the axle end in an attempt to "eat" this twisty stress. I only know, second hand, a couple of people with the RE long arm kit, so I have no first hand knowledge, but they both seem to go through the rubber bushings compartively quickly.
If I were going to do it, I'ld certainly use completely separate upper and lower arms, keeping them as close to the same length as possible, and as close to parallel as possible.

Check out:

http://truckworld.com/Monster-Trucks/Monsters-Monthly/2000-august/monster-tech1.html

and

http://truckworld.com/Monster-Trucks/Monsters-Monthly/2000-april/monster-tech.html

So has anyone broken a part(s) as a result of the twisting on the axle? I have seen pictures of people using RE's TJ longarms and getting large amounts of wheel travel. It didn't seem to cause a problem.

Also, this would be for an XJ. I havent really looked at it but I think it would be tough to fab some mounts for the upper frame end links if I wanted to do a 'true' 4-link, like mentioned above. I will have to look tomorrow. Anyone seen this done?

Jared

Fred, your on the money man.












Originally posted by Fred Wilson
If you're going to make your own long arms, why do the radius arm style. Why not make upper and lower arms, basically the same length and as close to parallel as possible. This is the best way. The radius arms (ala RE and the old Bronocs) put a *tremendous* amount of twisting stress along the long axis of the axle tubes. For every degree of droop or compression at the wheel end of the axle there is a degree of long axis twist attempted along the axle tubes. I posted a writeup on this here a couple of months ago. RE uses large rubber bushings at the axle end in an attempt to "eat" this twisty stress. I only know, second hand, a couple of people with the RE long arm kit, so I have no first hand knowledge, but they both seem to go through the rubber bushings compartively quickly.
If I were going to do it, I'ld certainly use completely separate upper and lower arms, keeping them as close to the same length as possible, and as close to parallel as possible.

Check out:

http://truckworld.com/Monster-Trucks/Monsters-Monthly/2000-august/monster-tech1.html

and

http://truckworld.com/Monster-Trucks/Monsters-Monthly/2000-april/monster-tech.html

OK, here is a thought. Try removing one of the uppers??? The panhard locates side to side. One upper would control wrap. Could be putting alot of stress on the one upper but......someone try it????