What do you all think about 1.25 thick solid mild steel bar machined out at the ends to accept hiems (3/4 3/4 16) , made long enough so almost all the hiem sinks in, i.e. the machined threaded hole in the end is only as deep as the hiem threads, no deeper; and the machined section of the rod is split on either side using a clamp to tighten it on the hiem (as opposed to jam nuts, so picture a stock TJ tie rod or a YJ/TJ drag link clamp).

The application is for drag link, tie rod, and track bar on a custom hi steer on a TJ using a Dana 44 with Chevy flat top knuckles and steering arms.

Thanks

Others here will debate on whether the soild rod is overkill or not but I think most will agree that the split and clamp style of attaching your ends is not as strong as a threaded hole, or welded bung.

Under the forces we put on our rigs the rod end can be forced in or out by having the treads "skip " in the clamp. When that happens the treads get worn and it can happen even easier.

This was the main reason I went to a crossover steering with DOM and heims. It has some issues too, but the rod ends stay where you thread them. It worked like a champ for me and I did it all myself- no machinist required.

I've done many of these set ups...have you figured out the angularity that the "draglink" heims are gonna be at "maxed"? Make sure you have the right "thread engagement" or it can get ripped out!! You might wanna build a set out of DOM with weld in "bungs" I did this for my 60 hi-steer/x-over I made.....simple and strong. Is this a "trail only" rig?

use the jam nuts with either tapping the tube or welding in a bung, i'd rethink the rod ends over tre they have less thread to adjust with and they have no real way of acheiving zero tolorence they will only be as tight as the hole you drill wich sounds good until one loosens up and starts to elogate the hole where a tre is tapered and will always be able to acheive zero tolerance because of the taper

90% trail rig. It has to be streetable, but only as a third vehicle for 2 people (fiancee owns tow rig, and I get a car from work, but only for work business, very strict on that, and I live in an urban area with good mass transit).
TREs can't be used here - kind of hard to explain, but mounting on the stock horns or the steering arms just won't work. The hiems are mounted in double shear on 3/4 grade 8s running between the stock horns and the steering arms.
Track bar is sincle shear mounts, but using 3/4 grade 8s about 8 inches long, with the hiem being behind a safety washer at the head of the bolt, and the rest of the bolt being sunk in 6 inches worth of sleeve.
I'll rething the linkages- maybe I'll end up going with jam nuts eventually.
Been mocked and tacked and ramped like this, angles are OK on flex.

How much will those fawkers weigh ?

I'd go with the jamb nuts and a piece of tube.

Built my tierod and draglink just like you described but used jam nuts, dont bother with the clamp idea. Did it back in 96, and it's held up great. When I do it over tho I'll go with tube and weld in bungs, probably go back to tre's as well. Tie rod ended up seriously stout, havent been able to bend it yet.

I accidently jacked up my entire front end on my tie rod this weekend :eek: (don't ask) The tube and rod end system of my hi steer held the entire weight.

After a big DOH! I broke out the bottle jack and straightend the tie rod in place. Good as new- well after I realigned it some. I'm not sure if the clamp style stock system could have put up with that.

I am running a solid tie rod with TREs not heims

Talk to Ben W he makes his Tie Rods and Drag link out of Solid 1.25 steel bars.

Ben is the moderator of the international group.

Originally posted by Lucy's Driver
90% trail rig. It has to be streetable, but only as a third vehicle for 2 people (fiancee owns tow rig, and I get a car from work, but only for work business, very strict on that, and I live in an urban area with good mass transit).
TREs can't be used here - kind of hard to explain, but mounting on the stock horns or the steering arms just won't work. The hiems are mounted in double shear on 3/4 grade 8s running between the stock horns and the steering arms.
Track bar is sincle shear mounts, but using 3/4 grade 8s about 8 inches long, with the hiem being behind a safety washer at the head of the bolt, and the rest of the bolt being sunk in 6 inches worth of sleeve.
I'll rething the linkages- maybe I'll end up going with jam nuts eventually.
Been mocked and tacked and ramped like this, angles are OK on flex.

running rod ends in double shear is far superior to single shear so probably be a while before you have any elongation problemx