Sorry I'm a newbie here, but I did search. I'm looking at buying a 96 D1 with a 5 speed and 111K miles for 3700.

My understanding is the tranny is a R380 mated to a LT230 x-fer case correct?

Does anyone know if a T5 transmission will bolt up to the Buick/Rover V8? or how to mate a T5 to the LT230?

I ask because I know the T5 will bolt to the buick belhousing on a buick 215, but not sure what's changed in Rover form. I figure a T5 is easier to replace than a R380 when the time comes (yes i know its limited to 275 ft-lb torque)


Eventually I'd like to do a diesel, but for now I'm sticking to basics.

Thanks
Eric

If youre thinking about swapping to a POS american transmission, you are definitely not sticking to basics. You will spend more money and time trying to fit that hunk or iron excrement in there than you would on rebuilding the R380, which is a nice transmission for its intended purpose. My opinion is, that if youre going to swap trannies for no apparent reason, you might as well make it the NV4500, for which adapters are already available and you gain a much lower first gear over the R380 OR the T5.

I'm looking at the availability of parts and cost of rebuilding. Is the R380 a stout transmission? How many miles do they last (yes I know maint and use affect it). A T5 is just available everywhere.

I guess the question is where is the weak spot in the drivetrain. I just assumed after reading the R380 was. Are there any signifigant changes needed (besides importing an engine) to put a 200 or 300 tdi against this tranny (I read there are multiple versions of the transmission depending on the engine).

I read that the LT230 is pretty much bulletproof, what about the center differential?

I agree with 64. :flipoff2:

Just because a tranny (or anything for that matter) is readily available, doesn't make it a good swap.

Yea, you are going to spend more for the 4500, but it's worth it in the long run. (Especially if you are going with a diesel eventually).

I know nothing of rover trannys. :D But the 4500 is a damn good tranny, not a "POS American Transmission" :flipoff2:

I'm looking at the availability of parts and cost of rebuilding. Is the R380 a stout transmission? How many miles do they last (yes I know maint and use affect it). A T5 is just available everywhere.

I guess the question is where is the weak spot in the drivetrain. I just assumed after reading the R380 was. Are there any signifigant changes needed (besides importing an engine) to put a 200 or 300 tdi against this tranny (I read there are multiple versions of the transmission depending on the engine).

I read that the LT230 is pretty much bulletproof, what about the center differential?

You will find availability of parts to be excellent for most LR stuff. R380's seem to be OK if the tailshaft oiling issues (search) are addressed. The T5 idea is a bad one, you'd be better off sticking with a stock transmission or at least upgrading, not downgrading. I regularly drive a D1 with 140K miles with an R380 and it still works perfect.

Don't worry about the center diff, you should be worrying about the weak driveline (axleshafts, CVs, etc).

If I were you I'd buy a Landcruiser.

Did a search on Tailshaft oiling and only this thread came up. If you could enlighten me as to where to look I'd appreciate it

At least I now know that the r380 is a good transmission if taken care of. Thats why I asked the question about the T5 (sounds like a bad idea).

Why would you say go for a Cruizer? I can fix just about anything myself with some guidance from a manual or bbs. I'm going to go take a look at that D1 today.

Did a search on Tailshaft oiling and only this thread came up. If you could enlighten me as to where to look I'd appreciate it

At least I now know that the r380 is a good transmission if taken care of. Thats why I asked the question about the T5 (sounds like a bad idea).

Why would you say go for a Cruizer? I can fix just about anything myself with some guidance from a manual or bbs. I'm going to go take a look at that D1 today.

The splines wear because of inadequate lubing (always a bad thing). Big clunk (some clunking is normal, this is brutal when it's really bad) and eventual failure. $$$ to fix. You can't really tell if you don't know what to listen for. The T case input gear has to be drilled to let the oil in to lube the splines. Not real way to tell externally, unless you take it apart. Look for reciepts or listen for clunks. Chances are it's never been done, it might be really ugly or might be all good.

What other off-road vehicles do you have experience with.

This disco may have tranny issues with this mileage if it hasn't been babied and the input gear thing rectified, if you are in a climate that warrants it, it has rust in places you can't even see (I cut apart a 96 last winter and was apalled at the amount of severe rot it had inside the aluminum panelwork - 50K miles and oiled every year) all the suspension bushings are likely loose, the front end needs a rebuild, might need a valve job.

The driveline is pathetically weak, anything over a mild tire (235/85) and you will have issues with broken parts.

I do not like discos. Not everyone is the same, plenty of people on this board do like them, I'm just trying to give you the no hype version. If you want a reliable no BS vehicle I don't think a disco is the way to go, personally. You'd be better off with a 60-62 LC.

I had a 96 DI 5 speed.

I have a used R380 too! It will be going in my LWB when my wife stops driving it and it becomes my full time second (well more like 4th!) car.

No biggy to repair them, all that wears is the synchro hub on second and the synchros generall, and the input bearing. All can be had for $400 or so.

The biggest issue is a leak which causes bearing failure or shifting too fast and wrecking second.

Most 96s should have had the updated input. If it is not misrable to drive do to a clunk you should be fine.

Ron

Checked out the Disco today. Doesn't look like any visible rot...got on my knees and looked underneath etc. Its lived its life in MN so there's probably invisible rot from the salt.

A couple of concerns. The tach doesn't work, it looks like a newer/rebuilt LT230 is in there (looks a lot cleaner than I'd expect). When I get it into 5th the shifter has some vibration (more noticable at a given speed compared to 4th gear).

3700$ sounds interesting,

I'm a former Bronco fan. I've had a 1990 EB Bronco and a 1994 Bronco. So I'm used to repairs.

Checked out the Disco today. Doesn't look like any visible rot...got on my knees and looked underneath etc. Its lived its life in MN so there's probably invisible rot from the salt.

A couple of concerns. The tach doesn't work, it looks like a newer/rebuilt LT230 is in there (looks a lot cleaner than I'd expect). When I get it into 5th the shifter has some vibration (more noticable at a given speed compared to 4th gear).

3700$ sounds interesting,

I'm a former Bronco fan. I've had a 1990 EB Bronco and a 1994 Bronco. So I'm used to repairs.

Tach gets its signal from the Alt. Might be a dead alternator.

What about clunks?

Beat a bronko to crap when I was in H.S. Blunt force instrument.

You nailed it right on the head. The guy said he thought the alternator was going south....doesn't always charge the battery.

No clunks whatsoever when driving. I'm so tempted to buy it. Any idea what kind of mileage to expect on a manual trans?

It was used for towing something (has wiring for towing). The AC needs a new compressor or bearing (noisy when engaged).

Wonder if the wife will bite

I'm told that R380's are holding up ok behind Isuzu 4BD1 diesels in a few rangies here in oz - so they should not have any issues with the rover v8.

AFAIK the R380's behind 300TDi have a different input shaft - stronger splines for clutch and those used in defenders arw shorter (with shorter bellhousing).

You can actually check the splines on the output side of the tranny as well as the input side of the LT230. Not hard at all to do. The 96 should have the cross drilled LT input gear as is already mentioned. The service bulletin I saw says something about marking the inspection/PTO plate with yellow paint once it has been done. My understanding there were three iterations: nothing, an "oiling plate" and then the cross drilling. I believe the serial number that started the cross drilling is the "F" series. Mine (95 D-90 ST) is a 95 and I had the aluminum "oiling plate," but pulled out the gear and machined a set of holes across it to (hopefully) augment oil flow. Check yours by pulling off the PTO/Inspection plate and place in nuetral and slide (while rotating) the gear out. You can look up inside to see the tranny output and look inside the gear in your had to see the LT input. Good luck!

So who makes the adapters for the NV4500? Can you get one to fit into a SWb vehicle like an 88 inch or Defender 90?

So who makes the adapters for the NV4500? Can you get one to fit into a SWb vehicle like an 88 inch or Defender 90?

BCB.

Yes.


http://tawayama.com/gear/Briggs/SH109%20007a.JPG

-Jeff

Here is a link to BCB (http://www.bcboffroad.com/)