what 's holding up/or not for you? And what joints?

Tire size
Overall gearing
weight
engine
driving style

I'm gonna be running a V6/465/203/205 with D44 14bolt welded with 4.10's
and getting warns and not CTM worries me to spend the money on a warranteed shaft and not get it warranteed because of ujoint failure. I tend to think Spicers are just fine as long as you keep an eye on them.

The new 760's stayed intact when both of my moser stubs let loose at different times not at the same time. They are good joints.

Warn chromo shafts, biggest spicer joints (dont have # offhand), 4.88's, detroit, 39.5x15 TSL's, Dual Toy cases and 22r motor, moderate flogging.... Broke 1 joint a year app.

Get the Longfeild ujoints if you dont want to put out the money for CTM's I just picked up moly shafts for mine and the Longfeild joints are the next item for purchase for me. Ben ran em with real good results and we all saw him roast the tires on the waterfall without issue :laughing:

second on the longfield joints.
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when Ben's finally let go, the spindle broke off, ruined both his shafts and the joint was hanging tough in the middle, unbroken

So is this all the opinions you guys got?

What about warns with spicer joints? like misfortune says.

save some money on joints but when they blow do your shafts too?

I've always blown everything at once, but since I've been watching them real close I catch the joint wearing out before it lets go. And I've been running warns(I think, been a long time) with a CTM on the short side and a Orielly's special on the long. The Orielly's wear out but for about $15 and lifetime no questions warrranty I carry a couple spares.

What makes the spicers soo much better, I'm assuming quality and US made but I thought I heard something about spicer going overseas anyway???

Mostly quality of material of both the cross and the bearing.

I run stock shafts and joints and brake a couple a year. I almost always loose the joint first. After I started tacking the caps to the shafts I still brake the joint...but they last alot longer. Most of the time what happens is I crack the cap and the bearing starts going to hell....then its only a mater of time till the joint lets go.

By stock shafts do you mean, stock replacement spicers or actual junkyard stockers?

I was thinkin of Spicer shafts and joints with caps welded in. but if I break two shafts I'm at the cost of warns and no warranty.

Well not junkyard but factory origional. I have been finding free 1/2 ton chevy trucks, subs and blazers all over the place. Most have missing or blown engines. I just pull what I want and drop the rest off at the junk yard....I'm a sucker for free stuff!

I am running the stock D44 shafts and x-760, with welded caps. I have found that I blow out the top of the cap first and the shafts are still in good shape.

Flame suit on.... I have yukon 4340 axles and the yukon/jantz super joints. I bought 2 complete sets for what I'd have paid for mosers and ctms.

This is a fs blazer, about 5,000 lbs, 350 vortec, 465/205, locked, 4.88s, on 42 tsls, I beat it. I know it will break some time, but it hasn't yet, I am looking for a 60.

I notice you have a doubler, I think that is what breaks most fronts, I only have a 65:1 ratio in low & don't have much power on tap so I stall when I get bound up.

I have the same setup as you in a 6,000 lb truck and 4.10 gears and 38.5 TSLs. Before I got my D60 I was breaking my 10 bolt front joints every other trip.