I was going to entitle this - the worst 5 hours of my life :mad3: but for the sake of the search function, I changed my mind.

I recently removed my rear diff, needed to weld the axle case, and thought it would be a good idea - not.

It was so tricky to get in/out I took a couple of piccies of it going back in, so you can see the angle of rotation people have mentioned previously.

How to remove a 404 diff (http://www.red-ibex.com/unimog/diff_removal.html)

Hope it helps

Homebrew pinion conversions are done, so I'll take some piccies of those soon. :)

Mog diffs suck taking them in and out. I have heard of people grinding some the mating surface of the housing down so the clearence issues are not as bad so the chunk can be rotated better.

from the pics it looks like you left the locating pins in the diff. Its much easier to rotate if prior to removal you use a puch and drive them into the housing. Also tie the locker lever arm to the pinion or a pinion bolt rather than diff bolt.

I didnt like hearing that this job is a pain, but it was nice learning about the technique before I went and tried to pull the third out; soon enough. Red Ibex what did you use to weld to the housing? Arc, Gas,...? Ill be welding to my housing soon, curious on how things went for you?

Red Ibex what did you use to weld to the housing? Arc, Gas,...? Ill be welding to my housing soon, curious on how things went for you?

I used Mig - I've got a SIP 170, a 240V machine, I used 6mm plate for the mounts, and the welder is rated to 8mm. But If I had the facility I would preheat the housing a little to help with the penetration.

From the pics, it doesn't look like you rotated the diff far enough. It should be exactly 90 degrees to installed location (ring gear to the original "down" side), then it just lifts in and out without a hassle, whether on the shop floor or installed in a vehicle. Cruiserrg, you are correct, just drive those locating pins in and fish them out later on.

--Rob
www.exaxt.ca

You don't have to clearance anything if you rotate it correctly. I had the same problems as you, I couldn't get the thing out at all... I spoke with Ryeguy a couple times, and as he states, if you rotate it 90 degrees, it lifts right out, no binding or clearancing required.

Definitely an area where the proper information is crucial. Most dealers should be willing to photo copy the appropriate section of the manual and forward it FOC. As mentioned above, if the housing is rotated 90 degrees removal is easy with no clearancing required. The manual is pretty specific....11. Unflange Drive housing. Knock out 2 set pins. 12. Attach drive housing to hoist and raise approx. 1cm at first, then turn 90 degrees to the left and lift out completely. Their is a wealth of expertise in the states in regards to the Unimog, many of them on the boards, many off the boards. A unimog axle is a unimog axle regardless of if it is under a mog, jeep, chevy, etc.

Cheers,

Scott

Sounds like I made a meal of the diff replacement.
I couldn't see at the time how a 90 degree rotation could be done, but obviously I should give up drinking :beer: in the garage.

it makes it a lot easier to drive the pins in then rotate it 90* no grinding nessesary.