I based it off the JD2 since most people I know have those dies and it doesn't need as wide of a piece of steel since the 1" pin for the main die is not offset like like it is in a 105. A few upgrades are I made the main arms out of 3/4 cold roll, not 5/8" and I made the swing arms out of 5/8" cold roll, not 1/2. I also upsized the width of the main arms since the JD2 has a problem of twisting where it knecks down near the 1" pin. The other upgrade is I made all my pins out of 4140 and if that doesn't prove to be strong enough I can heat treat them. I already cryoed them but thats what I do:D
Some of the spec's are a 3x24 cylinder, a 4 way valve, and a haldex 115/230 pump from northern.
http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/BenderB.jpg
http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/BenderF.jpg
http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/BenderL.jpg
http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/BenderR.jpg

Nice! I assume you re-used the hard-mout stand because it used to be manual, any plans to combine it into one movable unit?

The hard mount is nice because you can level it and have a set standard to work off of... That is one thing that always kind of confused me about the mobile setups - how they were getting it level all directions as their baseline :confused:

It started as just steel and I used the milling machine to make the whole damm thing so this one didn't start out as a manual one at all. I chose to go with the hard mount for a few reasons and the one you stated is one of them. It is level and stays that way since it doesn't move to other places in the shop. The other is that I wanted to pump to be on its own cart so I can use it for other things like my press or beer can crosher or whatever. Third is do to the overall size of a bender on a cart they take up a fair amount of room so I wanted to be able to put the bender over in a corner and out of the way. I don't bend that much so it wasn't a good use of space to me and the hard mount can be used for other items like a buffer or whatever once again.

Nice Dean! Finally. :flipoff2:

I would have the cyl at more of an angle. Too much force trying to push the entire bender at the start of a bend. Ask me how I know :D :flipoff2:


DRM, I just level my work to the die, seems to work out real nice on all the cages I made. I don't know about manual, but I can sorta tighten the tube in the bender, then it is real easy to get everything where it should be.

That is retracted all they way but not at all where it starts the bend from. It will move out quite a ways befor it starts applying presure to the tube.
I take it you bent something you didn't want to bend like a pin or what?

Nice dean :beer:

Looks good all mounted.

SeanP

What are the specs on the pump you are using? I like the quick disconnects... good idea.

That is retracted all they way but not at all where it starts the bend from. It will move out quite a ways befor it starts applying presure to the tube.
I take it you bent something you didn't want to bend like a pin or what?

Had the cyl at a similar resting angle as yours, and it ripped the mounting bolts off (JD2), but it was single shear. More angle, and double shear it has been good for a couple years.

Had the cyl at a similar resting angle as yours, and it ripped the mounting bolts off (JD2), but it was single shear. More angle, and double shear it has been good for a couple years.
I got you. We ran all the numbers on proE and there is a good load on the 1" pin so I know what you mean. We did are best to optimize everything as far as load and degrees of bend and what we were shooting for is having it beefy enough to bend 2x.250. Not that we will ever bend it and don't know if it could do it but that was are goal so bending 1.5x.250 will be no provlem. If the pin's start to bend I went with 4140 because I can heat treat them up to about 34/35 rockwell.

The pump is a basic, no valving pump. 1.5 gal. resivoir and a .097 CIR displacement and that = 1.25 gpm. As far as I am concerned it works great! Not to fast but not to slow. I can easly feather in a small amount more bend if needbe but it moves that 3" cylinder at a pretty good speed.

Can't have too fast of a bender :D People seem to forget that there is a control valve, so you can go as slow as you want.

I'm no tube monkey so I need all the help I can get:flipoff2:

Hey Dean, can I get a copy of the prints, sketches, rough dimensions, ect. for your bender? I was seriously looking at doing something similar but I was at a loss as where to start, as I've never seen let alone used a JD3. I had to have a local (before I moved to Oregon) shop bend my cage, and now I'm wanting to do some other stuff.

BTT for those who are looking to build one. I am thinking of sending my prints to the laser cutter and getting some made up in the rough stage. Anyone realy want one? I can get some quotes. The box part will be 2 pieces of 5/8" to bolt the ram two, not box tubing.

Looks like a nice setup, please post some quotes.

Looks great Dean!

Depending on the price, I'm interested in getting one.

Did you make the dies too?

Can't have too fast of a bender :D People seem to forget that there is a control valve, so you can go as slow as you want.

Does a standard 4 way valve give you a lot of control over the speed or are you using a flow compensating valve of some kind? I am not familiar with hydraulic valving... I appreciate the feedback as I need a valve to control the bender I'm designing. My calcs predict a 30 second 240 degree bend time, so I need a valve that can really slow it down if I want!

Thanks

It does give yo good control. I can slow it down to damm slow if I want to.

I have though about making dies since they are such a bitch to get from tme to time. I would make the main shoe out of aluminum and we will see about the follower die.

One thing I added that is not in the photo's is my yard stick that follow's the ram. I made a tray that goed on top of the ram with a pin that threaed into the top of the pin on the pressure arm. This pulled the yard stick out of the tray so you can measure the bend you made so lets say the 90* bend you want with the tube you are using takes 22 1/2" on the yard stick. The next 90* bend will take the same. I write these #'s down and keep them on file.

Are you including the pins as well? I'm interested too.

Also, are you still happy with the JD dies? In the threads on messed up dies I've read over the years, it seems JD is usually the one getting pissed on.

--Dan

i'm interested in quotes as well.

Well I sent the new prints off the the laser place but way too much money. The offered to charge only labor if I fine my own 5/8"X3 and 3/4"X4" barstock.
So does $180 for a 20ft stick of 3/4"X4 cold roll bar stock sound right? That is $9ft and sounds about right when you price it by the foot.

Definitely interested in quotes.

Well I sent the new prints off the the laser place but way too much money. The offered to charge only labor if I fine my own 5/8"X3 and 3/4"X4" barstock.
So does $180 for a 20ft stick of 3/4"X4 cold roll bar stock sound right? That is $9ft and sounds about right when you price it by the foot.

they actually go by pound. its about right. steel has gone up alot. you know you can get a m-tech supply bender with degree ring for $350. you still have to buy the dies approx $200 a die set.