just wondering how all the guys running chevy trannys in there scouts are doing the clutch linkage for the chev tranny.........getting ready to do my swap and want to get all my stuff ready befor i start on it...thanks..

i just want to know what it would take to use my stock international clutch linkage i know about changing the location of the flat bar on the pivot but how do i use my stock pivot point????? how do i attach it to my tranny????? any help would be great....has anybody doen this and had good luck with it???? thanks..justin

Why not just use a hydraulic setup?

i just ran a hydro setup, both ways are hard to do but if you get a pedal and m/c combo setup the hydro way is much easier to do.

what did you get the hydro set up off of? i heard the 60's fords had a decent setup that is easy to use on different stuff.......thanks for the help..justin

85+ chevys used the hydraulic clutch, but went to the internal slave cylinder sometime in the 90s. It would probably be the easiest to use if you get the hydro bellhousing. I dont know much about fords, but my cousin used to have an 85 Bronco and it had the external slave. They also went to the internal slave sometime.

i got mine off of an 87 or 88 blazer...im pretty sure any chevy that is running the TBI 350 has the hydro bellhousing with the external slave cylinder...at least mine is an external slave cylinder bellhousing.

so to do it i got to find a different bellhousing to run the factory style hydo, my tranny is out of an 81 1ton so it has the old pivot ball linkage type...my thought was using the slave cylinder of a ford and fabbing up my own bracket....i'm on a budget just had a baby so the cheaper the better? hey do i need to use a cv rear drive shaft????

I am having the same problms with my 800 and my sm465. i got my tranny out of a mid 70s blazer, so i am going to go non-hydro clutch. but has anyone out there tried to just use all the bracketry and whatnot out of, say, the blazer in my case? i was thinking it may be easily done if you dont mind cutting out the firewall much and fabbing a little. i was also looking into using a brake master clylinder and booster out of that same blazer for brakes. does this sound reasonable as well?

Sorry for the hijack.

Callen

honestly i really think you will be spending way to much time, unless you can fab really well...the linkage will probably be booty fabbed and a headache on the trails.

i had to have someone do the setup for me.

You can fab up a bracket for the hydro slave to be bolted on somwhere to your bellhousing that you have. The hardest thing i thought through the process was, the Master cylinder, and finding the throw of the pedal to match the m/c. Thats why the guy that fabbed it for me, went with a pedal and m/c combo that matched each other. Then all he did was run a stainless steel braided line to the slave cylinder and there you go, hydro clutch.

im sure you could find a bellhousing from a mid 80's chevy pretty easily to do this, would be less time consuming.

as far as the cv driveshaft goes, thats pretty vague....what tcase, 205, 208, 203 bla bla...whats the wheelbase at...if it's a slip yoke.

Funny, I'm pulling the clutch this week on my 80. (SBC 350/SM465).

The P.O. used the stock 80 slave on it.
He fabbed a bracket which mounts to the bellhousing.
Thing is, he shortened the clutch fork to get it to line up.
The pedal is hard as crap.
And I believe the bearing I used is too big (no play on the fork=fork/bearing are engaging the teeth slightly.... Not enough to effect performance right now, but it will burn the clutch out & I don't want to be on the trail when that happens).
The bellhousing also needs a bottom cover, so I'm going hit the yards to either find a cover, or another housing. I got a housing from a friend, but it's for a mech linkage, so nothing to mount the slave.

Once I put the new fork in, I'll fab a new bracket. We'll see if the throw is enough for it... If not, I'll be pieceing together some stuff.

http://thisdysfunctional.org/kids/Scout-Work/Bellhousing2.sized.jpg

You all might check with Novackhttp://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches_etc.htm

on the driveline issue my t-case is a 205 it had a slip yoke but i replaced it with a fixed yoke for the length reason and my wheel base is stock for a scout II with a soa with 4" lift springs 1 ton eaton rear. i would prefer to run a normal driveline due to the strength issue.

o yea same question about the front driveline, i know the 465,205 are longer than the T18,D20 so i should be able to run a normal drive line right????....

justin

normal means "no CV, right?" I would guess you would be able to run without a cv .. I ran just a th400 205 setup for awhile and had no issues without cv on the front, but I stretched the front out about 3"... When I went to a doubler I went to a CV on the rear, even with the rear stretched out a little. I don't think it was needed. so when I went 1350 I got rid of CV's totally.. I've yet to try these out on the trail, I guess their is no vibs when running down the highway..

thats good to know, i was hoping it would work cause i got all the standard (non cv) drivelines to cut down that will work great..thanks..justin