Sorry no photos here, I can't find a free linkable photo host.
They're at http://photos.yahoo.com/jjacobs22 in the POR folder.
I'm doing a double triangulated rear 4-link and am having a hard time with space constraints under the CJ. Things are rough-tacked up right now so if it looks fugly, I know, I'll fix it.
I built the angle brackets on the frame rails since I was thinking of mounting both upper and lower arms on the same crossmember and thought it needed some bracing. I can't move the upper arms out to the corner between the frame and new crossmember cuz it'd hit the brace bar at full droop or twisted up. The lower links are going to go from the outside of the rear axle in parallel with the brace bar to almost the center of the jeep. I was thinking I could shorten the upper arms and mount them on the brace bars somewhere, too- and still keep the full-on upper and lower triangulation. When I say brace bar I mean the piece that goes from the tube crossmember up to the frame, it's real obvious in the pictures.
So, whaddaya think? Can I make this work or did I just waste some tube?
Sorry the pics aren't here, I used to use photopointbut ya know...:mad3:

You need to get rid of that brace. Make a beefer x-member and gusset it to the frame rails.
From the picture the top bars might be too high and on full stuff they could hit the floorpan.
Get some plumbing pipe or angle iron (something cheap) to do the mock-up work with, when you get it all figured out, then you can cut up the good stuff. The brackets are always a pita.
I can't post pics. (for some :rainbow: reason) otherwise I'd show you how I did it.

Just trying to get the links as high as I can up there, if it hits the floorpan time for cutting! I think I'll prob. keep the braces and move the links in just a hair until they clear.
Can't figure why you'd want a bigger crossmember IF you have a brace to spread the load- can't be pulling apart the frame halves.:mad:
I don't know, gonna go stare at it some more and think how it could be stronger...
Yeah, on the front I'll use scrap metal/ angle iron first.:emb2:

I concur with dirtrod, that brace seems too much, and need to beef the frame rails up. And it is best to work with the cheap stuff for link mockup.

I think you also are on the right track about shortening up the upper links some. I would start with the lower links and get them where you want, (less space constraints to deal with) and then work on uppers, you may find the shortening them may be needed to get the pinion to point where you want in compression/droop.

For that brace I would make much shorter in length and angle to the frame closer to your crossmember. That way you should be able to make it the same angle as on the diff to allow for straight hiem brakets. This will be easier for fabrication.

Hope that made sense and helps!

OK, just deep-sixed the long brace. Shorter one, out to the side more and inline with the frame to a piece of angle at the corner between frame and x-member.
As for beefing the frame at the 4-link x-member, I was gonna cut a couple pieces of 4x3 1/8 plate, weld the x-member to that, weld that to the frame. Strong enough?
Hope I don't sound too newbie :flipoff2: but most of my past experience is bolt on lifts, so thought I might try and make use of all this knowledge in one spot.
thanks again....

Originally posted by VeloCJ
Just trying to get the links as high as I can up there, if it hits the floorpan time for cutting! I think I'll prob. keep the braces and move the links in just a hair until they clear.
Can't figure why you'd want a bigger crossmember IF you have a brace to spread the load- can't be pulling apart the frame halves.:mad:
I don't know, gonna go stare at it some more and think how it could be stronger...
Yeah, on the front I'll use scrap metal/ angle iron first.:emb2:

The reason for the bigger Xmember is so you can get rid of the brace, then you will have more room for the links when it articulates. I used some 2x3 x 3/16 ret. tube between the frame rails with some 45 deg slices of the same stuff for the gussets, nice and clean, tucked up out of the way, the top bars mount to the face of it, the bottoms mount under it. The bottom bars just miss the frame at full stuff....Your results may vary... :)