I have read a few posts on this but I have not found any with the same setup as mine to compare with.

I have the LandCruiser Advanced Handling steering correction kit in the front with 2 1/2" Skyjacker springs, and stock length shackles in the rear with 4" Skyjacker springs.

What I am looking to do is increase my wheelbase. It looks like all I have to do in the rear is flip the spring around front to back while at the same time flip the one spring around so the military wrap stays on the forward side?

Can I flip the rear spring hanger (where the rear shackle mounts) around to gain even more length or is there more to it than that?

What if anything can I do with the front?

Also when I see "redrill the center pin hole ofset 1" " what exactly is implied? Is this simply when the rear spring is flipped and the military wrap is flipped the opposite way? Does the hole get drilled through all of the springs in the pack or just the spring with the military wrap on it?

This is just not coming into focus for me so I need answers that are very simplistic in nature. :rasta:

I must put this in now :flipoff2: for all of those that are going to answer this post like they are talking to the retard that it seems I am. Really I am capable of thought, my brain is just preoccupied with college at this time.

Let see if I can help....Not familiar with the springs you using but its not that important...for the rear just pull the spring, take it to a spring shop(trust me springs will eat drill bits) and have them flip the military warp around, open up the retainer springs, and offset the hole one inch back but don't move the rear hanger as you want to achieve a near 45 degree shackle angle...for the front you can swap so that the short side is on the front and will net you around 96" wheelbase or their abouts, as the 4" spring in the rear makes your wheel base shorter and would be better for flex to have the 2.5 lift spring and longer shackle...hope that help's....try a search and many people have tried this, and I assume your still spring under, given the spring lift you chose....

I did the same thing to my springs as you're wanting to do.
I just redrilled the military wrap, ate four drill bits. I do feel alot safer now. Turning the hanger around- dont know about that. With reversed shackle and flipped springs I net a 98" wheel base.

Can I flip the rear spring hanger (where the rear shackle mounts) around to gain even more length or is there more to it than that?

Without altering the location of the spring hanger on the rear spring or going to a longer spring, flipping the rear spring hanger will net you nothing but a bad shackle angle. If you can get your hands on a set of 55 rear springs I would do that.


Also when I see "redrill the center pin hole ofset 1" " what exactly is implied? Is this simply when the rear spring is flipped and the military wrap is flipped the opposite way? Does the hole get drilled through all of the springs in the pack or just the spring with the military wrap on it?

When you do a spring flip the military wrap has to be on the spring hanger side. And it is more like a 3.5" difference. The 1" difference you are probably talking about is when you redrill the spring pads and the spring reataining plate. To net another 1" of wheel base.

The military wrap is where the second leaf from the top (main leaf) is wrapped around the eye on one end or both. This is a safety feature were two leaves from the spring pack are bolted to the frame usually on the none shackle side. If the main leaf were to break at the eye the second leaf would still be attached to the rig. The u shaped pieces you are looking at are the spring retainers. The keep the leaves from seperating at droop and from side to side. As for the other Questions I am not clear on what you want. Good luck.

Originally posted by Joey
Is there supposed to be a difference in the two ends of the spring? Like one military wrap one not? I just pulled back the tarp and took a look and both ends look exactly the same. Both look like a complete circle.

Also drilling the hole 1" back, this is drilled through the entire spring pack right? And then the ubolt plate and the spring perch just stay like they are right?

The one thing that I have not seen anyone talk about is the front shocks. How do these get mounted since the mounting point will now be too far forward? The back looks like I'll just put them on the opposite side of the tube.

David


Dude there is usually a difference between the spring ends. THe Military wrap is when the #2 leaf is also bent around the spring eye... Normally this is only on one side. Sometimes on both and occasionally there is not a military wrap on either side if the springs are "heavy duty":rolleyes:

Like I said before, If you have a military wrap end on your springs then you need to have that attached to the spring hanger, not the shackle. The 1" of movement is when you drill new holes in the spring perch and the Ubolt plate. You do not redrill the entire pack. That would make for a very weak point in the spring....
As for front shock mounts just get some longer mounts. Ones off of a late 70's ford F250 4x4 work perfectly and are super cheap...

Go take a look at Woody's site. Kick your shoes off look around. There is a ton of tech there that should answer mos of your questions...


Woody's site (http://www.ih8mud.com)

Ok, I took my dumbass hat off and am no longer in retard status. Problem was partially that my cruiser was outside in the snow with a tarp pulled tightly around the springs and a flashlight with low batteries. That and I was being an idiot.

I totally get it. Really. My springs do not have a military wrap end. Both ends are exactly the same with regards to the #2 spring. The top spring has the eye ends and there are four springs total in the pack. As far as the drilling of the hole 1" ofset, what I put was exactly opposite of what I meant. It was late and I have ten million things going through my head right now.

Thanks for all of the help and I will continue to look things up at IH8MUD because that is one cool site. I go there every time I have questions but this time I was either missing them or I just did not see something like I was asking.

And no I don't :smokin: or :beer: so the problem was just my brain was :zzz:

David

i did mine on the weekend
it was a piece of piss

with the front and shackle reversal, i did a spring flip at the same time 3.75 inches forward plus an offset centre pin hole another inch

no need to drill the front or anything, because i flipped the WHOLE leaf

if you have lifted springs, i would not do a spring flip, as your pinion will bind your uni joint, cause the angle (with any type of flex will be too great)

spring packs are in an arch right and toyota FJ40 springs have the diff sitting on the upside of the arch, pointing upwards and towards the transfer case, when you flip the springs (a good move for wheelbase, approach and departure angles, stability and ride) your diff is on the back of the arch and facing down and away from your t-case, and at any sort of flex, itll just bind straight up

on the rear spring flip i took the pack apart, got the second top and top leafs, flipped the second top leaf and drilled it out, using the top leaf as the guide hole

i used a brand new drill bit, lots of tapmaster thread cutter (lube/cooling stuff) and it cut both leaves quickly and easily, and the drill bit is still sharp and good, i dunno why people brake them!!?? (i used a press tho')

it looks good though!! especially with the spring over
flipping the rear spring hanger is gay, as someone said, poor shackle angle, unless you use 55 rear springs, or get a new leaf made up, with the centre hole moved back 4 inches, and the main leaf being longer, then its cool to flip, or take all four hanger off, and do like frosty did

I used to run 4" rear skyjackers, 2.5" front skyjackers, and the shackle reversal, so I know exactly what you have.

Skyjacker springs do not have military wraps, tho I think you discovered that already. The spring clamps are already opened and bolted to allow better droop.

Reversing the front springs will add 3.5" to your wheelbase. Reversing the rear springs will add an additional 3.5" to your wheelbase. You should not relocate the solid-mount spring hangers. You should make sure your shackle hangers are positioned such that they are at a 45 degree angle, or thereabouts. Dont forget longer driveshafts will be required, an additional expense.

I built a custom front shock tower to allow me to run 14" travel shocks and even with the 2.5" softride springs and being SUA, I nearly maxed their travel. Got some nice flex.

In the rear, running those springs with stock shackles will allow the spring to compress to the point that the spring eye hits the frame. If you relocate the shackle hanger to get a 45 egree angle in the rear you will need significantly longer shackles to keep the springs from hitting the frame on compression.

I ran the skyjacker setup for about 2-3 years and overall liked it. However, doing SOA was the next logical upgrade choice!

Just da da da do it.
You will have to relocate you're spring perches, dont go easy and put :rainbow: ass shims under you're springs niether.






TPI350,th400,D60,HD44,both ARB, dutchman axles 100" wheel base, duel optimas, 8274-50, saginaw str, soa s/r, custom dash, 38" on mickys alum, just 1 bad ass FJ40.

Now that I have the whole spring flip figured out, I only have a question about the driveshafts. Can the shafts I have be lengthened or must I buy new shafts? If I have to buy new shafts what kind of $$ am I looking at? I am going from a TH400 to an SM420 so I am almost positive that I will have to get new shafts anyway, but I do have two sets of stock length shafts, think I could use them?


The question that I had about the front shocks were regarding the mounts on the axle. Won't they be too far forward since the axle will be 3.5" forward? It just seems to me that the shocks will be angled like \ with the axle moved forward.

IIRC, the shock tower bolt faces rearwards now...just remove and reverse and you've picked up much of that difference. Retrim fenders as required to fit the shock.

Also, I relocated the axle mounts slightly, moving then a touch inwards...you could move them slightly to the back at the same time.

driveshaft tubes can be lengthen or shortened, not too difficult. Going longer is more expensive since a new tube is required, shorter requires one less cut/weld and no new tube. Any driveshaft shop outta be able to do it for ~$150 for the pair.

You can swap shafts too...might find that the front fits on the back or something like that. I did that once....saved me some $$