So this guy, Mike Nelson, sends me an e mail, says David Dearborn gave him my name..... :eek:
He shows up at the shop today, flat towing this truck.

And....

As near as I can figure, the front pinion nut was not staked on, it came off and contacted the pavement......
Result...... :eek: :shaking: :rolleyes:

am I missing something,

:eek: :shaking:
Damn greenpig I'm going as fast as this dialup will let me..... :flipoff2:

Ouch!

You guys need to find something else to do other than wait on new threads......... :D :flipoff2:

OUCH! That sucks. At least you don't have to diagnose that one for very long.

First...thats a nice cruiser...
Second...thats some kick@$$ work he did there :nuke: :smokin:

my buddy's case looked that way once..............late night dickin' around power brakeing.........

a sbc400 and 35s will do that very same thing...............

OUCH! That sucks. At least you don't have to diagnose that one for very long.

What's funny is at the bottom of the list he brought, I wrote,
"Replace transfer case, and front 3rd member "...........
he got chuckle also :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

OUCH! That sucks. At least you don't have to diagnose that one for very long.
I don’t know depends on the time of day for Butch. :flipoff2:

Man that would ruin ones day.

Mark

Thats gonna hurt. David didn't do that did he?

I don’t know depends on the time of day for Butch. :flipoff2:

Man that would ruin ones day. So are the rear wheel wells OEM, is this a 25-40 cross over year truck. Late 50's to 60's rig?

Mark
I'm thinkin' even a stick bending NW residing welder could diagnos this.......
It's a 71 and we discussed getting the rear fenders fixed. TJ flares.
Butch

Thats gonna hurt. David didn't do that did he?

I don't have a clue if DD did any work on the truck, he flat towed it back from Atlanta.....
Butch

Nice! Gives a new meaning to the term "Split Case"

I'm thinkin' even a stick bending NW residing welder could diagnos this.......
It's a 71 and we discussed getting the rear fenders fixed. TJ flares.
Butch

Ok don't be gripe’n about your dial up, you beat my broadband on making that much needed edit. However! Just last week looked at a cross over year 25 that had the wheel wells like that but w/o the hump in the doors. Also got to admit I took a closer look at the photos and learned even more about the truck!

Mark

Hey Mark, isn't this one of yours?
I'm thinking the cage caused the damage.......
Butch

If it's not a Metaltech, someone copied you big time :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Lucky the driveshaft didn't punch a hole in the floor and ventilate the driver. :eek:

Love that skinny tired cruiser! (Damage not withstanding).

Cruc

were the hubs locked or something? looks like it chewed the front diff up bad. One more reason to pull those 4 bolts on the rear driveshaft if flattowing.. Ouch!

were the hubs locked or something? looks like it chewed the front diff up bad. One more reason to pull those 4 bolts on the rear driveshaft if flattowing.. Ouch!
Rear DS was out, flat towing no good IMHO>
Butch

Sounds like fj25 hard top , the soft top had rounded doors and fenders.

Ok don't be gripe’n about your dial up, you beat my broadband on making that much needed edit. However! Just last week looked at a cross over year 25 that had the wheel wells like that but w/o the hump in the doors. Also got to admit I took a closer look at the photos and learned even more about the truck!

Mark

Oh NO! I did a lot of work on that truck but it needed more. I did replace the RR TC seal but that was it on the TC side of things. I did the suspension, tires, the best tune up I could with the carb on it and the cage. I do know he flat towed it all the way home.

Mike is a really good guy. Let me know if I can help in any way.

If the rear drive shaft was out, the hubs were unlocked and the vehicle was in nuetral, how would flat towing cause that kind of damage?

Add that to my list as one more reason I like old-school, castle-nut 3rds!

:flipoff2:



Do you think the suspension lift played a role?

Got a PM from David Dearborn, when I put :eek: in the first post by his name it meant nothing other than f'n with David.....neither I nor the owner have any inclanation that David had any part in this damage......just one of them thangs as far as we are concerned......
Butch :flipoff2:

It's too bad that AA won't just sell the Cast Iron Case portion of the Orion.
As cool as the 4.0:1 gear set is, with an SM420, I think it puts things WAY too low. I just want a nice, strong case to put my 2.23:1 gears in...

Got a PM from David Dearborn, when I put :eek: in the first post by his name it meant nothing other than f'n with David.....neither I nor the owner have any inclanation that David had any part in this damage......just one of them thangs as far as we are concerned......
Butch :flipoff2:

I certainly didn't take it that way. I've seen WAY TOO MANY loose stake nuts. Ask LandCruiserJunky if I didn't catch his just before it was too late. Sheit happens!

From the dozens that I have seen, it seems to be most prevalent on the 74-77 models. Maybe it's the wider flanges that go with the bigger U-joints, pre fine-spline. Not really sure.

:eek:
Dang!
Time for an orion upgrade...

It's too bad that AA won't just sell the Cast Iron Case portion of the Orion.
As cool as the 4.0:1 gear set is, with an SM420, I think it puts things WAY too low. I just want a nice, strong case to put my 2.23:1 gears in...

warden's billet case?! :confused: :)

warden's billet case?! :confused: :)

No Longer Available :confused:

What tires are those???

What tires are those???

34 950 15 TSL's
Butch

OH SHITE!

That's a definate booboo right there...

From the dozens that I have seen, it seems to be most prevalent on the 74-77 models. Maybe it's the wider flanges that go with the bigger U-joints, pre fine-spline. Not really sure.

If I have a Sept '77 build date on my '78, what are chances I have those flanges???

On a total side note, will my DS flanges bolt up to a late model (1987) split case?

I was looking at an old issue of Toyota Trails and this article showed measurements of flanges. The drawing of the flanges showed that my 1978 flange SHOULD have same bolt spacing w/ an 11 mm bolt diameter as the 1987 t-case flange...

This is regards to my H55F pipe dream...

If I have a Sept '77 build date on my '78, what are chances I have those flanges???
...

Unless someoe has swapped them out 100%
I think your flange will bolt up to the 60 but there are 2 versions on FJ60, early and late production.
Butch
Butch

Unless someoe has swapped them out 100%
I think your flange will bolt up to the 60 but there are 2 versions on FJ60, early and late production.
Butch
Butch


So I am probably NOT fine spline? :(

I was talking late model split case - out of a 1987...

So I am probably NOT fine spline? :(

I was talking late model split case - out of a 1987...

You probably are fine spline, but have the staked nut flanges, as Toyota switched to them sometime in the mid/early 70's....or did I miss the question?

You probably are fine spline, but have the staked nut flanges, as Toyota switched to them sometime in the mid/early 70's....or did I miss the question?


You didn't miss the question - I am a 'tard and don't know what staked means.

I was just trying to figure:
1 - do I have fine spline (you answered probably)
2 - can I bolt my DS flange to a '87 split case (again, you say probably)
3 - what does staked mean
4 - last question I have, if I H55F and split case my '78 40, and flip springs to move rear axle back, AND lift 4" with a SUA, do I need double carden joint (or CV) or will I be o-k on vibration level.

Thanks

holy shit , thats alota ?'s in one breath. You might wanna cv the end at the tcase but the other end will be fine. Depends on what tranny and how long drivetrain is and where it is mounted and same goes for hiegth of tcase when you mount it.

3 - what does staked mean
4 - last question I have, if I H55F and split case my '78 40, and flip springs to move rear axle back, AND lift 4" with a SUA, do I need double carden joint (or CV) or will I be o-k on vibration level.
Thanks
Staked, the pinion has a groove in it which the thin part of the nut is staked into so it won't back off vs. the old skool castle head/cotter key.
You should be OK as long as you keep the 2 flanges close to parrallel, and do not exceed the maximum working angles of the u joints.
I am currently running SO with no CV on the rear and no vibrations.
Butch

staked means the process by which you secure the pinion flange retaining nut. Older thirds have a castle style with cotter pin and are coarse spline I believe. The newer thirds have a nut that has an extra ring of material at the top that once torqued you stake it right at the little hole in the threads of the pinion with a punch , thereby preventing it from loosening. if you do this properly it will be a staked pinion nut.

damn it Butch , go to bed already and let someone else have a turn :)

Staked, the pinion has a groove in it which the thin part of the nut is staked into so it won't back off vs. the old skool castle head/cotter key.
You should be OK as long as you keep the 2 flanges close to parrallel, and do not exceed the maximum working angles of the u joints.
I am currently running SO with no CV on the rear and no vibrations.
Butch


Hmm...

Me thinks I'm getting hosed? Someone told me I would need to rotate my rear diff, so they are not parallel, and then CV the DS.

Hmm.

Thanks All!

damn it Butch , go to bed already and let someone else have a turn :)
Type faster beeaatch :flipoff2:

You want to rotate the rear up for a couple of reasons which may not apply to you, one is extreme lift/short driveshaft, the other is to get the pinion and rear u joint out of the rocks.
Butch

holy shit , thats alota ?'s in one breath.

Yeah, I kinda hi-jacked the thread, sorry 'bout that...

You should be OK as long as you keep the 2 flanges close to parrallel, and do not exceed the maximum working angles of the u joints.
I am currently running SO with no CV on the rear and no vibrations.
Butch

You want to rotate the rear up for a couple of reasons which may not apply to you, one is extreme lift/short driveshaft, the other is to get the pinion and rear u joint out of the rocks.
Butch

O-k, so which do I want to do? I am doing a 4" lift w. SUA AND flipping springs to move rear axle back...

Keep flanges parallel? Or rotate?

And what is my maximum working angle going to be on factory Toyota joints?

As always, thanks! :beer:

with that set up you prolly would be fine leaving pinion angle stock , however flipping the springs may change the stock pinion angle for the worse. Then a new pinion angle would be needed. If I were you I would cut off the perches and do all your mods then set everything back together and set pinion pointing at tcase and weld perches back on. Get lengthened drive line and if vibration is present then get cv on tcase end. do the pinion angle now cause you will be going soa soon.

Hey Butch , what the hell is shiner bock ? Send us kalifornia boys some. Tony said it is good.

Hey Butch , what the hell is shiner bock ? Send us kalifornia boys some. Tony said it is good.

I got some Shiner Bock after so many Texans pimp it here. It's a dark lager, and from my research, they say it's one of the best. I'm not a big lager fan, but it's pretty good.


That looks like the More Difficult way to check on the condition of the gears. Can you bolt some piano hinge and a barrel bolt on it so it's easier to re-assemble for next time?

-tom

with that set up you prolly would be fine leaving pinion angle stock , however flipping the springs may change the stock pinion angle for the worse. Then a new pinion angle would be needed. If I were you I would cut off the perches and do all your mods then set everything back together and set pinion pointing at tcase and weld perches back on. Get lengthened drive line and if vibration is present then get cv on tcase end. do the pinion angle now cause you will be going soa soon.


Thanks Peesalot.

Can you tell me max working angle on my drive-shafts?

My 40 will be so cool when I pull this off!

Hey Butch , what the hell is shiner bock ? Send us kalifornia boys some. Tony said it is good.
I think TT drank one of the kegs we used at the Roundup on his own :flipoff2: and I know he tossed back a case at Moab :flipoff2:
Land croozer describes it well, it don't ship well, try a large beverage store, Jeff Jones got his local one in Durango to order it and it sold so well they are now stocking it.
Butch

Hey Butch , what the hell is shiner bock ? Send us kalifornia boys some. Tony said it is good.

Its gota be in Cali, we have it up here in Oregon now. Even on tap in some places.

Mark

We've got it here now, not reliably, but it's here. Pretty damned good too, but I'm easy. I'm trying to get hold of a case for the 45 run, but aparently the distributor has recently changed and there are some logistical problems.

Kent

Kent, you'd better try harder! A deal is a deal!