38" swampers, 130:1, and a 300hp 350?

(hope so :D )

front or rear? Lance has a frt HP 44 in the cruzer :D

Originally posted by MeenGreen63

this is the land of Dana 60s and real coilovers, bud. not shitty homemade ones and welded 10 bolt axles.

get a real rig, and think about things before you post them. then you might get more respect around here.

Why are you asking about 44's? :flipoff2:

Maybe you should take your own advice

Originally posted by jdjanda


Why are you asking about 44's? :flipoff2:

Maybe you should take your own advice

ROFL :D :D :D

front and rear

oh yeah, and :flipoff: jdjanda

HAHAHAHAHAH maybe, if you baby it ;) I'd still follow your advice and go 60's

Originally posted by MeenGreen63
38" swampers, 130:1, and a 300hp 350?

(hope so :D ) No you are dreamin.

yeah so i talked shit to the guy who wanted to weld coil springs to his Pro Comp shocks. and i exaggerated about what this board is, but hell a 44 is still a ways away from a welded 10 bolt! :flipoff2:

Not by much.:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Originally posted by MeenGreen63
front and rear

oh yeah, and :flipoff: jdjanda

The taste of feet make your words stink. Remove head from sphincter then talk.

Jdjanda is 110% correct. You have no right to be pissed at him. You dug your own problem. :rolleyes:

And get the story straight he wasnt going to weld coils to the shocks. His idea isnt that far off base. Like I said in that thread it is possible but not for his application.

The front 44 wont do too bad if you build your 44 like lance's w/ aftermarket shafts and maybe some CTM joints.

Just some advice ease up a bit, add tech unless its in chit chat, and chill. :smokin: Negative impressions last longer than good ones.

Originally posted by MeenGreen63
38" swampers, 130:1, and a 300hp 350?

(hope so :D )

Whats the vehicle's weight??? A sami you might be ok if the frame doesnt twist in half. This setup is basically a Scout with a 392, wide t-19, maybe a 1980 d-300 and STEEP gears. I wouldnt leave it like that for too long...

thanks scouter... as to my attitude, yeah im really trying to clean it up. the past week i was just really pissed off at everybody for one reason or another, and unfortunately it carried over here :(

the rig will weigh about 3200-3500lbs, and there will be some loud pedal involved sometimes :D

what if I did a rear FF conversion? would it hold up ok then? oh, and just for cost comparison, how much would it cost me to have a 60 narrowed? :D

Yup :( Sucks huh? I can get rear FF 60's all day around $200 at junk yards in the ghetto. Try your local ghetto (unless your an urbanite) and hit the yards in as big a beater vehicle as you can find and dress as grubby as you can you get stuff cheaper that way. hope this helps.

a 60 rear is cheap and easy to find. Get one from whatever you can dig it out of and a speed shop can cut it down and weld on 9" outers easily and cheaply which will allow you many options on axle shafts.

If you want to cut it be sure to get a semi floater 60 the full floats are a bitch to shorten...

why is that scouter?

Full or semi, still the same to cut down. If you don't do it your self it still cost $125 for either one.

Re: will 44s stand up to this?

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by MeenGreen63

this is the land of Dana 60s and real coilovers, bud. not shitty homemade ones and welded 10 bolt axles.

get a real rig, and think about things before you post them. then you might get more respect around here.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Why are you asking about 44's? :flipoff2:

Maybe you should take your own advice



quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by MeenGreen63
front and rear

oh yeah, and jdjanda :flipoff:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The taste of feet make your words stink. Remove head from sphincter then talk.

Jdjanda is 110% correct. You have no right to be pissed at him. You dug your own problem.

And get the story straight he wasnt going to weld coils to the shocks. His idea isnt that far off base. Like I said in that thread it is possible but not for his application.

The front 44 wont do too bad if you build your 44 like lance's w/ aftermarket shafts and maybe some CTM joints.

Just some advice ease up a bit, add tech unless its in chit chat, and chill. Negative impressions last longer than good ones.





:laughing:ROTFLMFNO ... BWAAAHAHAHAHAAAAA thud thud ... HA HA AHA AAAAA

Did you ever get a hold of that Ketchup I sed you'd probably end up needing?!?
:laughing::laughing: :flipoff2: :laughing::laughing:

BTW ... the :flipoff: one of these days is gonna end up with you needing more than just ketchup NEWBIE ! ! !

Originally posted by emsoffroad
Full or semi, still the same to cut down. If you don't do it your self it still cost $125 for either one.

thanks EMS... who does it for $125?

Full floaters WILL cost more to shorten because if the ends aren't straight I mean in CLOSE tolerances it tears up carrier bearings and spindle bearings. BUT if you dont have straight ends on a semi float the worst that can happen is you burn up outer seals and bearings. The wheels spin on the housing on a full floater so the wheels will wobble and bad things will happen if a full floater isnt straight. Thats why you see people here making a jig to narrow full floaters.

Originally posted by scouter77
Full floaters WILL cost more to shorten because if the ends aren't straight I mean in CLOSE tolerances it tears up carrier bearings and spindle bearings. BUT if you dont have straight ends on a semi float the worst that can happen is you burn up outer seals and bearings. The wheels spin on the housing on a full floater so the wheels will wobble and bad things will happen if a full floater isnt straight. Thats why you see people here making a jig to narrow full floaters.


Wait a minute here

I can't imagine anyone welding up a housing so bad it would affect the carrier bearings. The wheels wobbled ? come on ?
Now if it were a little crooked, I could see it workhardening the point where the axle flange meets the shaft and maybe the flange would pop off. Or if it was way off, the tires would scrub or tilt.
I think this is a little overblown, maybe it's the jig builders assn. lobbiest at work.. lol

I would say yes except that your running a v8 so If at all possibleI would go for a rear Dana 60 or 14 bolt.:smokin:

Originally posted by dirtrod



Wait a minute here

I can't imagine anyone welding up a housing so bad it would affect the carrier bearings. The wheels wobbled ? come on ?
Now if it were a little crooked, I could see it workhardening the point where the axle flange meets the shaft and maybe the flange would pop off. Or if it was way off, the tires would scrub or tilt.
I think this is a little overblown, maybe it's the jig builders assn. lobbiest at work.. lol


Agereed I was blowing it out of proportion. I mean the lonly way they would wobble if it was a semi float and a shaft was bent. You would have toe or camber problems with the rear. I only posted that because it is a more precision thing to shorten a ff compared to a sf. You dont do it the same way. Agreed???

Originally posted by scouter77
Full floaters WILL cost more to shorten because if the ends aren't straight I mean in CLOSE tolerances it tears up carrier bearings and spindle bearings. BUT if you dont have straight ends on a semi float the worst that can happen is you burn up outer seals and bearings. The wheels spin on the housing on a full floater so the wheels will wobble and bad things will happen if a full floater isnt straight. Thats why you see people here making a jig to narrow full floaters.

Well i know at least I was sugesting cutting off the FF stuff and welding on SF outers and run 9" shafts and brakes

Originally posted by scouter77



Agereed I was blowing it out of proportion. I mean the lonly way they would wobble if it was a semi float and a shaft was bent. You would have toe or camber problems with the rear. I only posted that because it is a more precision thing to shorten a ff compared to a sf. You dont do it the same way. Agreed???

If you are gonna do more than one axle, or you are doing them for pay, a jig is a good idea for either axle. For someone doing their own work on a occassional basis, you can do a good job without one if you take your time and get some good measurements.
I'll agree that it is more critical with a FF, but I wouldn't want to drag along with a crooked wheel with a semi-floater either.