I have searched for this already.... Havent found much

I have a AMC 20 rear with a 4 inch RE Springover. I am having some axle rap that is causing U-Joint Failure. Has anyone bought or built some good traction bars that would work with the springover and not kill the flex. I have a 350 V8 in my YJ. :mad: I have bought enough UJ.

i build anti-wrap bars for all of my junk they are triangle shaped like most of the ones everyone sells they dont hurt flex as far as i can tell but the one bad trait they have is when you juice on the go pedal they lift the ass end up:smokin:

Originally posted by bigjeepinYJ
I have searched for this already.... Havent found much

I have a AMC 20 rear with a 4 inch RE Springover. I am having some axle rap that is causing U-Joint Failure. Has anyone bought or built some good traction bars that would work with the springover and not kill the flex. I have a 350 V8 in my YJ. :mad: I have bought enough UJ.

Here are two pics of one I made a few days ago.
Nothing super special about it. I used rubber bushings on the axle and skid mount and as you can see a heim to allow for movement.
Btw it's a small heim but it's rated around 32000 lbs I don't think my 4cyl would ever have enough juice to wrap the axle enough to break that sucker.
The two main bars are 1.5" .250 wall DOM the spreader in the middle is a small pice of 1" .120 wall tube

http://community.webshots.com/photo/29128196/30013246QAyHnBlGSP

http://community.webshots.com/photo/29128196/30013252eynXxzTILZ

Does anyone else have pics of their bars. thanks for the reply

PM SILLYNECK on this board. He makes some stout ones for a good price.

This is what I'm doing: http://billyxj.tripod.com/antiwrapbar/antiwrapbar.htm
The two John Deere top links cost me $50.

Originally posted by Archie_G
This is what I'm doing: http://billyxj.tripod.com/antiwrapbar/antiwrapbar.htm
The two John Deere top links cost me $50.

make sure you don't make the lower bar connect in the center of the top one. connect it all the way up at the end. shape it like an "A". with it in the center you will bend it. ask me how i know:D

Originally posted by Archie_G
This is what I'm doing: http://billyxj.tripod.com/antiwrapbar/antiwrapbar.htm
The two John Deere top links cost me $50.

Awful short on your triagulation. I would run the lower bar as far forward as possible. Then tie the two together with some support bars.

I've bent a few. But the last one I built, I built to last.

Here is a pic of mine... Have more if you need them.

For a write up on my ladder bars (using the John Deere top links) check here: http://pub59.ezboard.com/fnewenglandwheelersfrm49.showMessage?topicID=623.t opic
I know it looks like hell, but its a work in progress :D
http://mainejeepah.homestead.com/files/archiestraction.JPG
http://mainejeepah.homestead.com/files/archiestraction1.JPG

Does anyone have a pic of a traction bar that Sillyneck has made. Or more pics would be helpful. Sorting through some different designs.:beer:

dude, this is por lose the long sig!:p

I used 2" OD and a tractor link at the shackle end. I cut the link in half and sleeved the 2" OD over it and welded it up. The rear uses CJ Trac Bar poly bushings.
http://www.insayn.rockcrawler.com/images/traction_bar.jpg
http://www.insayn.rockcrawler.com/images/traction_bar2.jpg

At the shackle I used stock YJ shackles and the crossmember is 2x3 1/4. I cut a hole large enough for the other tractor link to be sleeved into it and welded up. That way the heims can be replaced easily and I had to use a shackle bushing sleeve to make the 5/8 bolt work. The axle mount is 1/4 plate. All bolts are 5/8 grade 8.
These are the same links that Archie G uses, but shorter.

I assume that you have welded that 2x3 in piece behind the skid plate and too the frame? I like the look of that bar. Look like it has plenty of travel. What size bars did you use. You might of said above if you did dont post.

The 2x3 is welded to the frame for now. I am building a flat crossmember and will integrate that into the crossmember. A friend used a C-Channel bar for his traction bar crossmember and it started to bend at the shackle mounting point. The 2x3 should be strong enough not to bend.
The tractor links were about 20" long I think. They cost $19.95 each and I only needed 1. I got them at Tractor Supply.

Originally posted by Insayn
I used 2" OD and a tractor link at the shackle end. I cut the link in half and sleeved the 2" OD over it and welded it up. The rear uses CJ Trac Bar poly bushings.
http://www.insayn.rockcrawler.com/images/traction_bar.jpg
http://www.insayn.rockcrawler.com/images/traction_bar2.jpg

Why didn't you swap the hiem to the bar end? Now it's working on a side load instead of a straight pull or push like they are designed for. Your not using the strength of hiem so much as the shank on that setup.

Not sure I follow. The shank is 1 inch thick.

Originally posted by Insayn
Not sure I follow. The shank is 1 inch thick.

I'm being anal a bit 1" is stout and all.
With your setup you are making the hiem take a load not only on the ball and race but on the shank portion. If the heim were vertical instead of horizonal it would be able to take a greater load befoe either the race busted or the the shank bent or broke.
Baisically you have added more leverage on the treaded portion by pulling it sideways.
I could be way off here but if I remember correctly hems are made to take loads X deg (depend on hiem) off center. If you look at the one I made last week
http://community.webshots.com/photo/29128196/30013252eynXxzTILZ
You can see that the race is taking more of the load when the axle tries to rise and there is no risk of bending the threaded portion.
Btw how long have you run the ar with poly bushings?I have always been kind of a skeert to use them cus I like a little rubber cushion even f it means a slight amount of wrap.

Now I understand. That setup looks great. I just copied others ideas and made this one. The crossmember is a temporary one until I integrate it into a flat tranny/t-case crossmember. I may try a setup like that.
The lower poly bushing doesn't have the sleeve in it for a little give. I haven't run it for long. I am just piecing the jeep back together. How long have you run yours?

Originally posted by Insayn
Now I understand. That setup looks great. I just copied others ideas and made this one. The crossmember is a temporary one until I integrate it into a flat tranny/t-case crossmember. I may try a setup like that.
The lower poly bushing doesn't have the sleeve in it for a little give. I haven't run it for long. I am just piecing the jeep back together. How long have you run yours?

About a week :) It was just done with the axle swap and all.
My very first wrap bar used an old driveshaft. I cut it keeping the splines then welded a huge arse bolt on the end and used a bronco style bushing on the crossmember.
It actually worked okay for years until I sold the truck but the splines did get a a lot of slop after a while.
seems like just when you think you have figured every way to do something somone else oes off the beaten path and blows everbody away.