I Am Looking For Any Info On Making A 9" Into A Full Floater. Did A Search But Didn't Find Any Post That Still Had Working Links. I Know About The Warn Kit, But Was Th8inking More Along The Lines Of Using 14 Bolt Parts And Running 35-40 Spline Shafts.

Rob

http://www.ramseyoffroad.com/Vehicles/Brads%20YJ/Rear_coil.jpg

My buddy runs a 9" center with FF 60 ends and 35 spline shatfts.He 's been running it fer 3 or 4 years with zero issues.

1. Front GM spindles (pre-78 Dana 44 version)
2. Brake calipers from same set up
3. Hubs and rotors from Ford 1/2 ton front Dana 44, pre-80
4. Weld tab on top and bottom of Ford 9" flange. Drill to achieve
full 6 hole bolt circle (some rear flanges already have 4 holes
in correct position. Others may need an "adapter" plate welded
to stock flange for correct bolt circle dimensions
5. Bolt everything up. Measure from side gear splines in differential
out to where the drive flange in the hub will engage
6. Have double splined axles made to fit. This is the only real
"custom expense" you will have to incur. You're done
7. Now you'll have a full floating 9" with readily available parts at
any salvage yard in case of an emergency as well as instant rear
disc brakes as well.


**** Details on the spindle...

The spindle "pilot" that originally slipped into the center of the front
knuckle, will need to be turned down to center inside where the old 9" wheel
bearing sat.

Also, there are several options to seal the axle...

1. Use the existing inner seal, and have the new shaft machined for it.
The hub would be maintained with grease, just as if you would in the
front.

2. Use no seals whatsoever, and run the bearings in gear lube. HOWEVER,
then there needs to be an anti-drain back ring installed, so the wheel
(hub) bearings are always bathed in gear oil, even when tilted to one
side, cornering, and even when (if) the differential runs dry. The seal
will effectively be the O-ring on the hub cap. This means there needs to
be a good seal between the spindle and housing, and on the hub cap. Less
maintenance with this option.



**** Strength adding tips...

a. Use 31 spline inner diff carrier
b. Make a fine splined drive gear in place of the course spline used
in most Dana 44 lockouts. This will prevent the use of standard
lockouts (which are sloppy and failure prone anyway), but the
increase in strength will be significant.

randy thomas i think originally wrote it?

there are a few web pages I have ran acrossed doing a search on google for ford nines that give instructions on how to home fab a full floater. I cant remember what they are. I have also seen kits for them for sell on ebay.

Here's another option to look into: http://www.mitchelldifferential.com/pages/3/index.htm .........Hans

You can have a puck machined with the 4 bolt 9" bearing plate pattern and the 14 bolt spindle pattern. have the backside cut to fit the 9" bearing hole and have the other side cut to match the 14 bolt spindle. That should make it a complete bolt on proposition, then it would just be a matter of figuring brakes out.

Justin

Thanks for all the help the mitcheldifferential site looks like the way to go.

my google searches come up with a bunch of vendors. any one with links

sweet i was wondering about this topic. now i can do it.

with the axle seals, is either of those options more/less prone to leaking or bearing longevity? which are y'all running, and how is it working out?

I recieved a reply to my email from http://www.mitchelldifferential.com/pages/3/index.htm and the kit they sell is $859.00 and can only accept 31 spline shafts. Not going to work for what I have in mind. Guess its back to the drawing board so I can make my own out of a 14bolt and a 9 inch.