here is what i have...TPI 350, 36" TSL's d44 front(welded) and it keeps eating axle shafts...what can i do to slow this down? would warn shafts help or mosser???? please help...can't find a d60 either :(

Moser or Warn shafts with CTM joints.:smokin:

I'm wondering if the welded spiders are causing shortened axle life, granted it is a cheap way to lock up a dif, but with the extra stress of it being a front axle...???

gee i wonder why?:rolleyes: Welded, 36's, stock spicer axles, horsepower.......hmmmm. nope no idea here.:flipoff2:

Welded is the biggest factor, imo. But if ya gots ta have traction, warn shafts and the ctm's. I can pop shafts like toothpicks with my ARB on and 38's whereas my buddy with 39.5 boggers peels out rampantly with an open diff and has never fragged a shaft or joint. Both having similar weight gearing and power.

yeah i mean, i know that i have alot of HP and welded, but would warn shafts help enough for what they cost??? and who sells them at the best prices?

could i get away with out the CTM joints and just warn shafts??? those CTM are too rich for my blood...

why bother with the warn shafts if you don't do the ctms or superior u-joints? the u-joint will just take the shaft with it when it goes, and then warn won't warranty it. buy the ctms with the warn shafts, and save the money over the long haul. also, i would guess that you are probably gassing it with the wheels turned, and *POP*. try driving in a straight line everywhere you go, that should help solve it.:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Originally posted by aaronlosey
why bother with the warn shafts if you don't do the ctms or superior u-joints? the u-joint will just take the shaft with it when it goes, and then warn won't warranty it. buy the ctms with the warn shafts, and save the money over the long haul. also, i would guess that you are probably gassing it with the wheels turned, and *POP*. try driving in a straight line everywhere you go, that should help solve it.:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Many warn shafts out there have taken fragged U-joints and lived to tell about it. I say get warn shafts, or the new Superior shafts when they come out. Also are you running 297 or the new 760 U-joint?

yeah i am running the 297x...

Randys ring and pinion seems to have a good price on 4340 axles. It is the welded part that is taking them out. Good axles will help but they won't fix it.

Are the shafts actually blowing or are the u-joints slipping a clip and cap and breaking the ears off the shafts? You could modify the shaft to accept full circle retainers so the clips don't pop out.
If not, Warn, Moser or Dutchman axles should help.

no the u-joint is fine, this time it looks like the short shaft twisted and sheird itself off...now should that u-joint have gone first?

Not necessarily. Some of the manufacturers warranty their axles against the twisting at the splines and maybe the shaft. But I think the alloy 4340's should help out.

yeah i think it is time to step up to the aloy warn shafts....we'll see

thanks insayn....also do you have the warn shafts?

I have been skating on thin ice and running the stock shafts. I can find them for about $20 for both inner and outer so I stuck with that. I may eventually go for the alloys and get it over with and use the stockers as spares. I had a cap slip out on the front and reemed out an ear. That is the only problem I had. I only have 3 sets all around...lol.

As mentioned earlier its the welded diff. Ok ok repeating what you already have been told or know. But... this a what came first, the chicken or the egg, kind of thing.

My .02 says take the coin you are about to spend on the WARN shafts and CTM's and put a real differential in it. ARB or a Detroit. Get rid of the welded diff.

Case in point, I ran the 36's on stock shafts and 297's with big block power and never really had a problem. When I moved up to the 38.5's then the stock shafts didn't get it any more. Since then I've moved up to the WARN shafts with 297's. So far so good. But before I step up to the CTM's, I'll build a 60. (It's laying in the shop now)

A question, how or when are they breaking? Wheels straight or turned?