i've seen a few guys around with 42s and 60s. they have both broke the knuckles at the steering arms(up top), but have not seen any other breakage. what else lets go when you put the hammer down?:eek:

The factory 30 spline stub shaft and 30 spline hubs would prolly go first.

so upgrade to the 35 spline stubs and hubs. what do those come off of? i have also heard of plating the knuckle to strenghthen it. anyone else do this? :beer:

Dana 60

Outer 30 spline stub
1480 joint
Inner 35 spline short side
Inner 35 spline long side
Pinion
Ring gear

And on a Dana 70

Pinion
1.5" 30 Spline Axle

That's in the last 3 years.

Originally posted by FULLSIZE
so upgrade to the 35 spline stubs and hubs. what do those come off of?

D70's.

And I agree w/ coloradok5 - the guy in my club with a 60 and 42's has toasted an outer and a couple lockouts.

I will see how my 60's like 42's.... but considering I never broke a birfield with 35" boggers, I doubt even the 30 spline outers or 30 spline rear will give me too much of a problem ;)

DRM,

My brother went up to Telico for an event early on this year and he said goin up slickrock there were 44s snappin left and right (I think he siad 3-4 in a couple of hours) but that the couple D60s that he saw headin up it didnt break anything and most of them had more HP and heavier foots...

I think youll be fine... Ive watched some of your video clips and you drive precise and slow from what I have seen.

As CK5 said- stub shafts on the 30 spline

Broke 3 stubs in two seasons with 44's

to upgrade to 35 spline, you also need to change hubs.

Move your weaker point to the inner

what's easier to change?

D60 35 spline article:

www.off-road.com/chevy/tech/dana35spline/ (http://www.off-road.com/chevy/tech/dana35spline/)

If you have a 79 and older 60 I would not upgrade the outers to 35spl. The inners are 35 spline but then taper down to a little larger then a 44 axle. For the most part I see the stub axle braking and then it takes the lock out with it.

ok here is a run down of how things "usually "break:
if running the taper down 35 spline inners with stock 30 spline outers the inner will break where it tapers down or the stub will break at about the same time..when the stub breaks it will usually ruin the lockout and it can break the spindle(split tje spindle) or cause the spindle to swell.If running "big style"inners with the stock 30 spline stub axle then the stock 30 spline outer axleshaft or lock out will go ..If running big inner with dana 70 outer then the u-joint or 35 spline lock out will pop.If the u-joint goes it will take out the ears on the axle usually..If running big style inners with 35 spline outers with35 spline drive flanges then the u-joint will break...Of course a driveshaft joint could break before some of this stuff depending on what size joints you are running.And the ring and pinion can be a victim if it is not set up properly to handle the abuse(I mean use)...i have broken two 1480 joints which took out the inner and outer axles(broke ears) and I have broken a 35 spline dana 70 rear axle shaft..Hope this helps.remember this is not written in stone..But, just observations from 8 years of running a 60 front.:D

My thoughts... How about running 35 spline all the way out and running some Superwinch hubs?? I heard they have a lifetime guarentee and are not as good as Warns, so how about making that the fusible link?? That's what I'm planing... Good or bad?:confused:

Does Superwinch make a 35 spline hub??? I thought your only option is the Warn 35 spline hubs (actually made for rear D60 full float kit) or the slugs.

Originally posted by rodent
Does Superwinch make a 35 spline hub??? I thought your only option is the Warn 35 spline hubs (actually made for rear D60 full float kit) or the slugs.

Good question?? I don't know... If not how about 30 outers with the shitty hubs?

Originally posted by CHOKEvenom


Good question?? I don't know... If not how about 30 outers with the shitty hubs?

I'm trying that one right now, I almost tried to break it to see what would break first, but the last stub took the hub & spindle with it, which forced me to cut off the hub/rotor... which was too much $$$
The superwinches are hella cheezy compared to the warns though, we'll see how long it takes me to wipe out another one.

oh yea, I've also taken out 2 steering knuckles, one with 35s, one with 38s... I went crossover when I went to 42s, & no problems (& no cracks) yet.

Originally posted by Fullsizes Rule


I'm trying that one right now, I almost tried to break it to see what would break first, but the last stub took the hub & spindle with it, which forced me to cut off the hub/rotor... which was too much $$$
The superwinches are hella cheezy compared to the warns though, we'll see how long it takes me to wipe out another one.

Cool, I am curious to hear what happens

Originally posted by TyTy
DRM,

My brother went up to Telico for an event early on this year and he said goin up slickrock there were 44s snappin left and right (I think he siad 3-4 in a couple of hours) but that the couple D60s that he saw headin up it didnt break anything and most of them had more HP and heavier foots...

I think youll be fine... Ive watched some of your video clips and you drive precise and slow from what I have seen.

They were all running the 35-spline outers with non-tapered inners, though. I do admit, they were hammering it the hardest I have ever seen anyone hammer anything and nothing popped. We're talking landing from 4 feet of air under all tires onto huge boulders with the foot still on the floor. (Stupid, really.) There's pics on my web site. And it was on lower 2, not slickrock.

J. J.

Everything that breaks on a 44 w/ 38" tires, will break on a 35sp 60 w/ 44s...
I've been to tellico lower 2 when the good ole boys broke 4 or 5 60s in a row running big rubber, and I walked up to the top with a 44 ft. and 38s never getting over fast idle. It just depends where the tires land and how luck you are at the time.

Originally posted by TyTy
DRM,



I think youll be fine... Ive watched some of your video clips and you drive precise and slow from what I have seen.

read...:rainbow::flipoff2:

Originally posted by rodent
Does Superwinch make a 35 spline hub??? I thought your only option is the Warn 35 spline hubs (actually made for rear D60 full float kit) or the slugs.

Nope - they are D70 lockouts.

Originally posted by emsoffroad
If you have a 79 and older 60 I would not upgrade the outers to 35spl. The inners are 35 spline but then taper down to a little larger then a 44 axle. For the most part I see the stub axle braking and then it takes the lock out with it.

You can just upgrade your shafts to the newer (non-tapered) ones. Then keep your tapered ones for spares :smokin:

Originally posted by brector


Nope - they are D70 lockouts.

I just bought a kit with 35 spline outers and lockouts. The lockouts were warn premium hubs for full floating rears. Said it right on the box. If anyone wants the part #, I can get it.

Originally posted by mudtruck44


I just bought a kit with 35 spline outers and lockouts. The lockouts were warn premium hubs for full floating rears. Said it right on the box. If anyone wants the part #, I can get it.

That's good to know! I haven't seen the hubs for the FF rears. The guys I know just get d70 outers and lockout. You learn something new everyday :D

I believe the warm 35 spline lockouts are actually for the full floater 35 splne ford 9". Of coarse many people use them for the front 35 splne D60 as well. :D