I have a 16' (82" between the fenders) utility trailer to haul my junk around on if I ever get it out of the garage. As the rig sits now, it'll fit between the fenders, but I have full width running gear (D60/14b) that will eventually find their way under the rig. At that point, it won't fit between the fenders/rails. I'd be looking at some sort of modification to the trailer or just selling it and buying another one.... probably the latter.

On my way home tonight, I spotted a trailer with a for sale sign and stopped to take a look. Here's the run down:

24' x 82" flat deck tandem axle
2 x 6 square tube frame with 4" channel crossmembers
6" channel tounge
2" ball
2 - 3500# axles (no brakes on either axle).
wood deck

I noticed that the axles appeared rather new and I'm thinking they were replaced and they "cheaped out" and bought 3500# axles for it (I also think they're in upside down since the chamber looks to be inverted). Talked to the wife about it... the husband won't be home 'till the weekend. She admitted that she wasn't the best negotiator and proceeded to tell me that they were asking $2000 with the intention of negotiating. The way I see it, a trailer that big HAS to have brakes and it would take a good $400+ to outfit those axles with brakes. I'm thinking about offering her $1200 for it and if I end up paying $1500, it'd be an ok deal.

Now there is no way I could use all 24' of the trailer with only 3500# axles under it, so I would either replace the axles with 7000# axles and possibly convert it to gooseneck. It's either that, or reposition the the 3500# axles and cut it down to 18' or so.

Opinions???

EDIT: I have a neighbor that is interested in buying my utility trailer for his lawn care business.

Keep the rims narrow with plenty of BS & you'll have no issues. You want to run 14" wheels with 2.5" BS, it'll never work. But, a set of 8.5's with 4" BS or even 10's (if the tires aren't too wide) will SQUEEZE through if you have enough backspacing.

Assuming you have a downsized rig, you don't have a lot of wheelbase. You don't want to go super wide without a lot of wheelbase because you lose some stability. The thing has little resistance to going sideways. And if you have a full-size rig, it's likely your trailer isn't up to the task of hauling that much weight, so that being the case go for the other trailer.

TEX

You should be able to get brakes for $125 an axle IF the axle has flanges already welded on.

That, a connector, and a couple strands of 12 gauge THHN is all you'll need.

It's hard to say the deal is "good" without actually being able to see the trailer. The cost to refloor it would be substantial and worth negotiating. Also, check the crossmembers for rust.

I checked etrailerpart.com and came up with about $155 per axles... but then there is shipping on top of that. My local trailer shop is about $200 per axle. Crossmember are good. Wood deck is not brand new but has a lot of life left in it.

Let's hear some opinions/ideas/drawbacks on converting a trailer to gooseneck...

...Assuming you have a downsized rig, you don't have a lot of wheelbase. You don't want to go super wide without a lot of wheelbase because you lose some stability...

My rig is a Scout II with the wheelbase stretched to 104". When I swap to the 60/14b, I will be using re-centered hummer wheels with 4" backspacing and probably a 38.5 x 12.50's.

My rig is a Scout II with the wheelbase stretched to 104". When I swap to the 60/14b, I will be using re-centered hummer wheels with 4" backspacing and probably a 38.5 x 12.50's.

12.50's should go through the fenders of an 82" wide trailer.


TEX

12.50's should go through the fenders of an 82" wide trailer.


TEX


I think it will really be pushing it. My DD has 67/65" wide axles, with 33x12.5's on 15x8 rims with 3.5" BS. Its at 82" to the outside of the tread.I would think that wish 4" of BS, and 69.5" axles, he will be closer to 84" to the outside of the tread.

12.50's should go through the fenders of an 82" wide trailer.


TEX
Keep in mind that my existing trailer is a utility trailer with side rails running the length of the deck at the same width as between the fenders. If I end up being anywhere near 82", I'd have to be perfectly lined up with trailer as the sides rails would not allow for much if any steering of the front wheels. Seems to me like this would be a PITA with full size running gear.

Keep in mind that my existing trailer is a utility trailer with side rails running the length of the deck at the same width as between the fenders. If I end up being anywhere near 82", I'd have to be perfectly lined up with trailer as the sides rails would not allow for much if any steering of the front wheels. Seems to me like this would be a PITA with full size running gear.

Could be snug. BTW, this is what 38.5X11's on 8" rims look like on 60/14B:

http://www.gumbo4x4.com/Gumbo354.JPG


TEX

Yeah, I'm quite sure that a new/different trailer will be in order once the 60/14b gets swapped in..... just not sure if this trailer is the replacement or not. Pretty sure if I did get it, that the $$$ to convert to gooseneck would not be worth the effort. I'd probably just cut 6' off of it and reposition the axles to maintain proper bias. Might even swap in a set of 5.2k or 6k axles..... it all depends on what they are willing to let it go for.

Even if you get it for 1200 it seems like to me like a bad deal. Wrong length, wrong axles, wrong brakes, and maybe wrong attachment system. If you swap out the axles you will likely need new wheels, tires and springs. Waay too much work for desired results. Keep lookin. :beer:

Yes, yes..... after doing some further checking, they don't have any of the required paper work to make it legal so I'm just walking away from that one. I'm going to look at a 10.4k 20' gooseneck lowboy tomorrow....

Well, like I said above.... I walked away from the shady deal and two days later, I tripped over this: :D

http://home.kc.rr.com/torc/P0002705sm.JPG

20' deck with a short dovetail and fold up ramps
double 5" channel frame
10" channel neck
single drop-leg jack
2 - 5200# axles with brakes on both axles
MFG. by Starlite Trailers out of Oklahoma

I have an appointment tomorrow morning at 8:00 at the hitch shop to have a B&W Turnover-Ball put in my tow rig (yeah, I'm having it done... I could install it myself, but not nearly as quick as they can since they've put in thousands of them.... and it's only $50 install charge. Worth it to me). Then I go pick it up and drag it home. Now I need to find a buyer for my 16' 7k bumper pull.

Just curious, but how wide is your new trailer inbetween the fenders? Short of being a deckover, most trailers are 84" or under inbetween the fenders, even goosenecks???

My scrambler with 69.5 d60 and 42's with 10 in wheels with 3 or 3.5 backspacing I still have to drive over the fenders and hang off maybe an inch or so per side, and mine is 84in between the fenders....my trailer also has diamond plate fenders, so far they've never budged.

Good luck,
Justin

Very observant grasshopper.... yes the gooseneck is only 83" between the fenders/rail. However, on the GN, the rail is just there because somebody wanted it to have sides. I can hack the railing off and won't comprosime the structural integrity any since it has a double stacked 5" channel frame. With my current 16' utility trailer, the frame is made out of angle iron and the side rails are actually acting like a truss. If I hacked them off, there would only be one piece of angle iron for a frame and it would bend like a wet noodle. The fender on the GN are stout and I intend to just drive over them.... if they give me any problems, I'll just make some new ones out of 8" channel.

Edit: BTW... the deal is done and it's sitting safely in my driveway. Cost me $1500.

A pic I took on the way home. Stopped to get a drink and to check things over after the first 5 miles or so. The set screws on the adjustable coupler were not tighted and rusted up, so I had to make the drive with it wobbling around. No big deal, it just made it a bit noisier when I'd accel or decel. but I took of that when I got home and hit them with some pentrating oil. I may have to massage the ride height a little to get it to set level when loaded, but I won't know that until I pull my junk up on it. Still need to chase a few demons out of the wiring... nothing has it's own ground wire and the harness was setup to ground through the ball so I need to run some new wires to correct that problem.

http://home.kc.rr.com/torc/Truck&Trailer.JPG

:smokin:

Now get to that IH so I can ride bitch with you sometime. John and I can take our ATV's along sometime to. :grinpimp: You have room for them and the power to boot :cool:

nice looking trailer.. seeing all these goosenecks is making me wanna just do the deed with mine.. and get a 32' er...
scott

Very observant grasshopper.... yes the gooseneck is only 83" between the fenders/rail. However, on the GN, the rail is just there because somebody wanted it to have sides. I can hack the railing off and won't comprosime the structural integrity any since it has a double stacked 5" channel frame. With my current 16' utility trailer, the frame is made out of angle iron and the side rails are actually acting like a truss. If I hacked them off, there would only be one piece of angle iron for a frame and it would bend like a wet noodle. The fender on the GN are stout and I intend to just drive over them.... if they give me any problems, I'll just make some new ones out of 8" channel.

Edit: BTW... the deal is done and it's sitting safely in my driveway. Cost me $1500.


Sounds like a good deal to me :smokin:

I wasn't sure on the railings, as a gooseneck shoulnd't need them as a structural piece. Sounds like your good to go.....wish I had a gooseneck, but alas my daily driver and tow rig is a Suburban, so that might be kinda hard :shaking:

10-4,
Justin

Sounds like a good deal to me :smokin:

I wasn't sure on the railings, as a gooseneck shoulnd't need them as a structural piece. Sounds like your good to go.....wish I had a gooseneck, but alas my daily driver and tow rig is a Suburban, so that might be kinda hard :shaking:

10-4,
Justin
Sawzall :flipoff2: