I vaugely remember someone posting a link to varous cv and or ujoint yokes and the maximum angle that they can tolerate before they bind. Does anyone have it? I know about excessive angle and wear and all that, I just want to know how far I can droop without binding with various driveline ujoint combinations.

I would maybe check out Tom Woods site at 4xshaft.com (i think) - usually good info posted.

or check the horse mouth maybe at:

http://www.spicerdriveshaft.com/

???

Can't help with the chart. , But since I've had a few cocktails (again) I'll ramble on for a spell....
I always end up grinding away at everything that gets in the way, and I turn the shaft in question by hand to get a feel for any bind. A slight bind at full lock/droop might not be a problem in the real world if it does not come up often , or under full power, but, I try to relieve any binding I can find, no matter what the charts show...As with anything published, there will be a safety factor involved that won't concern a person doing their own work, but if you are doing work for others, it is nice to have published data to point to, so you can say you are with in specs...For my own use, I'll always exceed the mfg's. maximum recomended limits on just about anything if I think it will get me a little further than the other guy....

I dont' know how old this thread is, but I'm reviving it. has anyone found anything?

J. J.

1310 non c/v limited mainly by end yokes 25 degree's on a good day- that's non c/v - the 1310 c/v properly modified 34 degree's t-case end- 1350 non c/v again limited by end yokes 20 degree's - and 1330 again 20 degree both non c/v - the 1350 c/v 32 degree max - and good ol yoda 41 degree's non c/v if you can get someone to modify and make flanges to fit your application - JESS

yep.. good old yoda joints! thats what makes the world go round!

here is what I have...not much info and I dont remember where I got it...prolly from here:D

I was told that you could get more angle without bind from a 1410 compared to a 1350.
Could someone verify this?

Edit:
:emb4: OOps, didn't see Supergper's reply

Originally posted by doctor_G
I was told that you could get more angle without bind from a 1410 compared to a 1350.
Could someone verify this?

look at the chart I just posted...it says you can get 17* more with the 1410...

1410 IS GOOD AGAIN IN MOST CASES DUE TO DIFFERENT CASTING TO 28 DEGREE'S NON C/V - WE HAVE A 42 DEGREE C/V ALSO -ITS KINDA SPECIAL THOUGH- AH SHEET SORRY FOR THE CAPS LOCK HERE- NOT REALLY YELLIN- jESS :D

Super,

Those "minimum" angles don;t make any sense to me?

Anyone knoe wassup with that?

BTW - I'm working right now, in collaberation with Jess, on a MASSIVE driveshaft tech and product review article - it will kick ass, i promise.

Originally posted by BillaVista
Super,

Those "minimum" angles don;t make any sense to me?

Anyone knoe wassup with that?

BTW - I'm working right now, in collaberation with Jess, on a MASSIVE driveshaft tech and product review article - it will kick ass, i promise.

They dont make sense to me either:D just thought I would throw what I had out there...:p

I think I remember seeing somewhere that the minimum angle is to keep the bearings moving an acceptable amount. Keeps the grease smeared around, and avoid needles wallowing out a slot in the cap (or flattening the needle) by just rocking back and forth.

Thanks, guys. Exactly what I was looking for.

J. J.

BadDog,

You are right, that with a cardan style Universal Joint you do often need an angle to get the caps rotating, but it's more like 1*. Fifteen degrees seems way excessive to me, and is well beyond the recommended operating angle of many joints in stock configurations 9I think Spicer OEM recommend something like (6-8* max)

Hmmm, those numbers do seem a bit too much, but I would expect it to be more than 1*. Assuming something like 30 needles, that means each needle consumes 12*. So you would need 6* of angle to move 1 full "slot" in a full rotation, assuming no slip. 10* would get you a little over and seems reasonable from that perspective.

In any case, I'm banking on that 20* listed for the 1410 since that is what my new 1410 shafts will see at static height. I'm just hoping the front does not bind when the passenger side drops...

[Edit]
Just thought of something else... Moving 1 "slot" would get the needle out of it's "trough", but would only rotate the needle just over 90* so it would need to go further to keep the needle round. Then again, the needles are so hard, maybe it doesn't matter... Just setting here trying to wake up and thinking out loud...

[Edit 2]
Just noticed the "N/A" on the 1350. WTF?