yeah, yeah yeah, i checked the archives but really want to know. if you have done a SOA, would you do this to a rig that will be driven on the road only (heaven forbid!), or go with the lift springs. stability and roadworthyness is an issue! saddle up!

I'd go spring over/shackle reversal and a good set of shocks. I've had several daily drivers over the years that were SOA, I like it. My daily driver FJ60 is also SOA, it makes for a nice comfy ride.

Jeff

I've daily driven a sprung-over FJ62 for two years now, and I love it. I keep the RS9012's firm and the front anti-sway bar engaged for street driving, with the tires aired up to 30-35 PSI, and I love the ride/response. The truck is tall, which can be uncomfortable at times (short passengers, loading the roof rack, having to toss the dog in the back), but overall, I don't see it as that much of a compromise. A pleasant side effect of SOA on the street is that the added height gives you added visibility!

On the trail, there is *no comparison*....

soa soa soa! my so...s/r 40 is 100% better on road than it was be4. why even fawk around w/ lift springs:question:

how much of a difference does a shackle reversal make for handling? is it really good enough to warrant its doing? Matt

SOA all the way, It would'nt do you any good if you dont R/S.
I've tried both, The R/S seems to cushion the ride 100% better.
If you do soa why not take the time to R/S.
You're already there, it only takes a few hours.
Also you will gain more articulation on the trail, alot more.

Alright i am going to start a debate right now because i am in starting stages of a soa. s/r or not if so is there any tech articles on homemade kits, ill be damned if im going to spend 200-300 on a kit that is so wimpy looking id probably break it trying to freakin install it!!!

Originally posted by smack
Alright i am going to start a debate right now because i am in starting stages of a soa. s/r or not if so is there any tech articles on homemade kits, ill be damned if im going to spend 200-300 on a kit that is so wimpy looking id probably break it trying to freakin install it!!!

First for the origional question...I suggest a SOA on the road! The ride is amazing if designed right.

As for the quote above...if you do an SOA, do the FLUSH MOUNT shackle reversal...no, you don't use the kits..that defeats the point!

If you no't cut and turn your knuckles and want a SR, that is what you have to do, but you should be cutting those Knuckles!

Do it right or don't do it at all!

I am not saying this for the "handling" but for the approach angle! I went from a little more than a 50* approach to an 80* approach!

Danny Warden at wardens 4x4.
Has a how to do a soa,s/r article call them im sure they will be happy to send a copy. wardens auto repair.

Deffinitly rotate those knuckles $250 its well worth it. I tried with out rotating, wow did that ever suck.
When I did my R/S, I went through the frame about 11/2 to 2" from bottom of frame. It gives you a better center of gravity and alot less sway. Iwas also told that you can do the spring over with out rotating knuckles, you just have to stay in the 1-4 degree pinion angle, which is a 50/50 chance of getting it correct.

I dont have to worry any more now I have D44 custom built, what a differnce in steering geometry.

So the basic consensus is that sprung over is better than under. I have been planning on putting OME suspension on my 40, but sprung over that is going to be pretty high up there. How is that going to affect my on-road driving. This is my daily driver so I want it to handle well both on and off-road. Does anyone out there have OME sprung over? How does it handle? Would you recommend it?

O.K. I'll be the lone wolf on this one to suggest a sua not soa for your lift. First you stated your going to use this as a dd and never stated what kinda wheelin' your planning. Soa is very tall compaired to an ome lift and if your not going to wheel it then the extra work of an soa may not be worth it. Admit it soa guys there is a lot of little details that you have to do to get an soa right and if its not done right its way:eek: .

If your an adverage wrench guy and buy your springs used (cheap) then a mild lift from sua is easier/cheaper and has less details( i.e no drivelines to modify, brake lines to change or track bars to make) then a soa and as long as its a 2.5 kit the ride would be comparible to stock. I run a shackle reversal kit and sky Jacker sua and it works good for me even on the Con when I lived in Lodi so a sua is not complete $-it. Yes a soa will flex better then my sua, but when you only get 3-4 trips a year in then for me the money and work of a soa was not worth it. If I wheeled as much as alot of the people on this board do then I would be soa also.

Look at your wheelin' needs and go from there because a 90 inch wheel base is not going to have the Caddy ride soa or sua. Let us know what you decide. :beer:

I have that set up currently and really have no issue's, I can corner at decent speeds and get ok flex.....I've got OME 2.5 over stock...sometimes it feels tippy but you have that with flexy springs but something you get use to fairly quickly if you drive it everyday and don't swap vehicles like I do that exagerates everything....

These guy's are right!
Soa is pain in the ass!
I dumbed alot af money in my soa, and I did it myself.
If I could go back intime i would of rather have taken it in to have it done at Extreme gear for $2000.00.
Dam does it sit high to, even with stock springs.
I did mine more for trail riding comfort. If you rarly see the trail you'de be better off, staying with lifted springs sua and shackle reversal for a more comfy ride on the road. I did the con with sua and soa theres pros & cons with both. Sua felt more stable, while the Soa felt more tipy, Its all about what you like. Drive a buddys rig thats Soa then decide.

Hey Jerry, I'm running SUA front with 21/2" lift springs and SOA rear with stock saggy front springs. I like SUA/SOA because I get the stability of SUA where the weight is at and the flex of SOA in the rear where I need to keep the rubber on the ground.....You'd have to come up with 2-21/2" in the front to balance this though..I've got that 21/2 shack reversal in the front......5-6"lift in front, 6-7" lift in rear......and you don't have to deal with main and drag link issues. BTW I've got some hubs if ya want em.

ya, what do you guys think about the sua/soa combo? any other people tried it? any pics?

thanx

well this is a really stupid ?' but what do you guys mean by cutting and turning your knuckles? So another words what you are saying is DO NOT simply do a spring over but do a shackle reversel and cut and turn you knuckles hmmm sound like alot of crap to deal with. Its just kinda weird because i have talked to many people that of done a simple soa and had no problems and love life and there rig, are they missing out on something??

Well Smack off the top of my head I'd say 4wd above 15 mph :D depending on your ability to run aluminium shims cutting and turning is a must above 8 degrees from the pinion to the transfer case input flange.

I say do the SOA, but do it right otherwise you will not be happy.
The reason the knuckles need to be rotated is when you set the caster angle properly the pinion is pointing down and the driveline
ujoint flanges will likely bind. Not to mention that you will drag
the driveline and pinion on more crap (it hangs to low).
I have run the OME springs on my SOA Cruiser for about 5 years.
I like the way it drives, it was my dd for 2 1/2 years. I am currently
driving my buddys cruiser that is also soa, sr, ome springs
35" boggers, it drives great.

ok so i get what it means now i appreciate the info, i will get my knuckles cut and turned any idea how far they need to be turned, because i am sure where I live no shop has done this before? so i will either have to do it myself or have it done......