I am going to paint my Cruiser soon and I am not sure what type of paint to use. I am going to use PPG paint but not sure what type. I want something that is going to hold up well, and be somewhat user freindly. I am new fairly new to auto painting,
I have used acrylic enamel, but would like to use something better. I would like some expert opinions on which to use?
PPG- Concept single stage/or two stage?
PPG- DBC base coat clear?

Go with the BC/CC, its easier to blend later than the single stage, and try the OMNI line of PPG, they are the cheaper PPG line, and a good quality, both are conpatable with each other. The OMNI line is about 1/2 of the higher PPG line. For a show rig go with the higher grade stuff, but for a wheeler go with the OMNI, it won't hurt so bad when it gets scratched. Hope this helps

u can buy the best stuff out there, if you are not a auto spray man u will fuck it up.:flipoff2::flipoff2: Can't tell u how many fucked up cars I saw when I worked at a body shop:flipoff2: I can paint, but my room mate at the time was the painter there and it takes alot to know what he did, blending temps, ect.take it to earl shives, those guys paint dozens of cars everyday, they have the EXP. to pull it off, just prep it yourself, even buy your own paint iuf you want, but unless u have done it, don't...best advice u will ever get:D :D

I have to agree with seabass. I just finished painting my 2A and still have a few visible runs from moving too slow (I know better next time) but it is mostly a trail rig but will provide some DD transportation so a few runs dont matter.
As for what terra-izer says about using two stage I disagree..I used kirker one stage paint mixed with 2 parts paint to 1 part thinner and 4oz of another stuff dont remember what it was called but it was to keep it looking wet after it dries. The paint looks real good except for the runs mentioned above which you dont notice unless you are looking for them.

Shake the can for one minute after the ball begins to rattle.
Use in well ventilated area........

I'm sorry, just had to do it. Good luck w/ the paint job.

Originally posted by hy_desert_4wheeler

As for what terra-izer says about using two stage I disagree..I used kirker one stage paint mixed with 2 parts paint to 1 part thinner and 4oz of another stuff dont remember what it was called but it was to keep it looking wet after it dries. The paint looks real good except for the runs mentioned above which you dont notice unless you are looking for them.

The stuff you are talking about is hardener. It adds gloss and makes the paint a little easier to spray. Some paints say to add it, some don't.

Also, don't expect to drive your ride for about a week after you spray it. The longer you give the paint to cure, the better. Also, check to see how long you need to wait before waxing it. Most times its a month, but that also veries by brand of paint. Personally, I don't like PPG products - never could get a real sharp finish like I could with other brands...maybe it's just me.

If you take it in somewhere, do all the prep work yourself. This will save you a ton of money as this is the most labor-intensive part.

just painted mine with sherwin williams 7000 series bc/cc, that stuff rocks, I got the white and clear free so I used it, but if it were me paying for it, I'd have gone with a single stage for someting like this that is going to get scratched anyway.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=277577

You can use bc/cc, but stay away from metallics. Unless you work in a body shop as a painter(it does not sound like you do), then you will have a hard time spotting and blending if you ever need to touch it up. I used PPG single stage CLV, with DP90 sealer. Make sure to use a light sealer coat just enough to cover the surface before you lay down the paint. CLV is tough paint, and color sand/buffs pretty easy, as long as you dont wait for it to get too hard. If you dont bake it in a booth, then you will have a few weeks to buff it. I will spray out a bit cheesy, but you can reduce it just a bit. You will have to get the color, hardner, reducer, and an enhancer. Dont forget the enhancer, it wont harden. You only need about an ounce/gallon, but it will stay soft without it. My gallon cost me $130 for the color, about $65 for the hardner, $16 for the reducer, and I think less than $10 for the enhancer. The sealer cost about $60 for both the hardner and the sealer. You can reduce the sealer with the 860 reducer, same stuff for the CLV. Get a good mask if you use this stuff, the CLV is some stanky stuff!

terra-izer is correct about the third component being hardener. It is kirker "wet look hardener".
As for cost the paint cost me $15.00 qt the primer was $9.00 qt the hardener $25.00 qt and the reducer was $18.00.

I used ppg on my 1st job...2part and I never sprayed before..took my time in prep and it came out like a showpiece...that was 5 yrs back...I amazed my self on that job...a fj40 and sold it a month later for 6k!!...just read up on spraying and go do it...not that hard overall....:D

I appreciate the input. For the amount of stuff I need to paint
I would have to be rich to afford what a body shop would charge me to paint everything. I have allready painted the frame, axles,
motor, tranny and many just about every other part so far.
I have not used a rattle-can on any of it. I just have every peice
of sheet metal that needs to be painted. All the peices have been
sandblasted and primed with PPG, DP40. There is alot to practice on before I paint the outside of the tub, hopefully by then I will
be able to do a decent job.

Only have painted Windshield frame and fender once, with spray paint. It looks ok, mostly because there's not that much surface that I painted that is showing. But I have a new :eek: Not-so-Dented:eek: hood on the way, and I want to paint it, since I have an air compressor, and all I'll really need is the paint gun thing. Is there somewhere where I can get the paint in the factory-color? And how do I know what I should use (clear coat, etc.) I'm not very experienced at painting unless its in a can, but hey, if I screw up, I'll just sand it and do it over. Does Maaco or whatever sell just paint without them actually painting it for me? I want it to look fairly decent:rasta: Actually, it probably won't cost that much to get it painted, so how do I go about priming it and everything (getting it ready for paint) so all a shop like Maaco would have to do is spray on the actual paint and stuff? Thanks guys.:beer:

I am going to have to disagre with you Keith about staying away from the metallics they make some now that you dont have to worry about keeping it mixed and stuff like that you jsut mix it with reducer, hardner and your ready to go. Two winters ago my dad and brother painted his 79 f 250 and it was the first thing that he had painted in over 20 years and it came out clean, and we painted are 86 Chevy Burben this summer. Both with the metallic paint and they both came out looking good. All I have to say is use plenty of light, practice on something tell you get the hang of it and use plent of light you can never have to much light thats why I said it twice. Shoot it dosent take that long to get the hang of it eather this summer after I watched my dad paint the burben I picked it up and painted my front bumper. It was the first time I had ever painted with automotave paint and I found it rather easy to get the hang of it. If you do do it your self have a ventalated space with plenty of light. Thats all I have to say about that. Ohya here are some pics of how the F 250 came out and my bumper. Sorry there not that good.

http://www.tarleton.edu/students/jwillms/chasesoldford.jpg

http://www.tarleton.edu/~daskins/autos/ranger/album/Ranger-11.jpg

Justin<><

Originally posted by ROCK HUGGER
. There is alot to practice on before I paint the outside of the tub, hopefully by then I will
be able to do a decent job.

You going to start on the Mini van:flipoff2:

That fawker needs it to, the only problem is 1 can of Krylon
cost's more the the van is worth :flipoff2: