I've found out a little about them, but need some real world experience. Will that single rotor hold my 4000lb. rig on a steep incline so I can fix the damn thing when I bust it on some obstacle and can't (or don't want to) get off it? Also, where can I find just the cable actuated caliper? I can make everythig else myself.

Easy

Contact Jesse @ high angle driveline. He'll answer all your q's.

Originally posted by EasyXJ
Will that single rotor hold my 4000lb. rig on a steep incline so I can fix the damn thing when I bust it on some obstacle and can't (or don't want to) get off it? Also, where can I find just the cable actuated caliper? I can make everythig else myself.

Easy

Remeber the brake gets the benefit of the multiplication your diff gears offer.

But what if you snap a driveline? then you only have 2 wheel holding

Originally posted by HeyBeerMan


But what if you snap a driveline? then you only have 2 wheel holding

A stock e-brake only holds 2 wheels to begin with, so you are no worse off.

ding ding ding....newbie's correct!!!:D

Originally posted by Cutter
ding ding ding....newbie's correct!!!:D

Now ya see, there are some smart NEWBIES out there. :flipoff2:

I have a $25 hyd ball valve plumbed into my ft. and r. lines...step on the pedal, flip the handles, and it's locked up solid..

Originally posted by Rob 85K5


A stock e-brake only holds 2 wheels to begin with, so you are no worse off.

If your going to upgrade...Why not go with a micro loc or something along that line? It will have the capability to hold all for.


Hey newbie!! :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Originally posted by EasyXJ
I've found out a little about them, but need some real world experience. Will that single rotor hold my 4000lb. rig on a steep incline so I can fix the damn thing when I bust it on some obstacle and can't (or don't want to) get off it? Also, where can I find just the cable actuated caliper? I can make everythig else myself.

Easy

I am sure Jesse at High Angle will be glad to sell you a cable actuated caliper and I rotor if you need one..... And yes it will hold your rig, I have trouble moving my rig when I forget to disengage it, it holds tight.

As for as a line lock goes, sure it will work but I would hate to see it bleed down and let loose :eek:


www.highangledriveline.com (http://www.highangledriveline.com )

Hope this Helps

http://www.allprooffroad.com/brake.html
here's a page from All Pro Off Road with parts and direction to do this.
http://www.allprooffroad.com/pics/4566.jpg

I like the ball valve idea, but what happens if you blow a brake line, will the other axle still hold? I suppose it would. Can you post some pics or send me some of how you have the valves situated and your actuating mechanisms.

Easy

good deal on the caliper!
i was quoted $2-300 when i asked someone a few months ago

Originally posted by Rob 85K5


A stock e-brake only holds 2 wheels to begin with, so you are no worse off.

I disagree....

With only a tcase e brake and you loose that drive line then your ebrake is gone, all you have is your regular brakes.
With the ebrake as part of the wheel brakes it doesn't matter if you loose the shaft or regular brakes. I personally wouldn't want to depend on a tcase brake for an ebrake.

EDIT: If your not locked in the rear it wouldn't work either.

It won't help much to send a pic of my set-up, because I'm useing sprintcar pedal/mcyls and they are inside the cab...
Northern tool or any hydraulic supply catalogue should have a small ball valve listed...you will need to route a brakeline from the mstr.cyl to the valve, and then back to the brakeline that was attached to the mstr. cyl. you could put them under the dash, under the seat, under the hood...where ever you want them...
Only problem with ball valves is...if you forget to release the valve and start driving, you can't apply the brakes with the pedal, the ball will not let fluid move either way when it is closed. This won't be a problem if you are paying attention, or if you set the brakes hard when you close the valve. But if you set the brake lightly and start driving, it can get interesting when it comes time to stop.
I did front and rear for winching reasons. The valves are cheap and foolproof. And could screw-up a joyrider or stupid theif.

Originally posted by Dented


I disagree....

With only a tcase e brake and you loose that drive line then your ebrake is gone, all you have is your regular brakes.
With the ebrake as part of the wheel brakes it doesn't matter if you loose the shaft or regular brakes. I personally wouldn't want to depend on a tcase brake for an ebrake.

EDIT: If your not locked in the rear it wouldn't work either.


If your in 4 hi or 4 lo, it "should" work just fine whether you are locked or not. The busted end is not holding of course, and the other driveshaft has to move for a wheel to spin. Unless you have a NP203 or other case with a differential.

You are only using the tcase temporarily an ebrake to limp off the trail, then home and fix it. Not much chance you will use it for an extended period.
Find a chock or stick a pry bar through your CV joint in either shaft, leave it close to the frame, and you won't go far.(know which way the shaft spins)

Line locs are nice and good to have, but if you lose the pedal on the street or going on down hill grade, there no good.

Originally posted by Dented


I personally wouldn't want to depend on a tcase brake for an ebrake.

a few manufactures have used this as OEM and is DOT legal


EDIT: If your not locked in the rear it wouldn't work either.

this is the dumbest statement ive read in a while. tell me why you came to that conclusion?

Your right gearman even with an open diff on wheel would lock, wasn't thinking.

I personally feel safer with the wheel brakes as the ebrake.

Originally posted by Dented

I personally feel safer with the wheel brakes as the ebrake. i agree any mechanical is better then a hydraulic.

i would also like to thank Jess at HIGH ANGLE DRIVELINE for the SAWEEET job of building my t-case brake for my atlas. top notch work! :D it is definitly pimp

thanks shwan- apprecaite the case for use ! if i have any gear work you will be the one i call- i hear alot of people yakin about your work! Jess:D

oh yeh not to say the one ton /cv is unbreakable but its kinda large and on an e-brake usage lock in your fronts if your worried- Jess

This is starting to turn into a really hard decision. The valves would be cake. Minimal fab work, ultra cheap ( I like it that way). But, the whole reason to me to have an ebrake is in case your hydrualics fail. A caliper is going to cost me some $$$ then I've got a ton of time into R&D(I don't let other folks make stuff for me that I can make, it goes against my very being). An ebrake on the axle isn't going to be an option cuz I'm going rear steer and I don't trust any of the calipers out there that have ebrakes built into them.

Easy

Originally posted by Dented


I disagree....

With only a tcase e brake and you loose that drive line then your ebrake is gone, all you have is your regular brakes.
With the ebrake as part of the wheel brakes it doesn't matter if you loose the shaft or regular brakes. I personally wouldn't want to depend on a tcase brake for an ebrake.

EDIT: If your not locked in the rear it wouldn't work either.


whos not locked in the rear???:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Dented
Your right gearman even with an open diff on wheel would lock, wasn't thinking.
Um... you still over the in umbville, huh? Someone has never looked inside an open diff... :rasta:

With an open diff, if the driveshaft is held in place (like this caliper idea would do) one wheel would have to rotate the way the vehicle wants to roll, and the other would have to rotate BACKWARDS for the vehicle to move.

Try it - put your rig in gear and jack up the rear axle. Spin one tire, and the other spins the opposite direction. Of course, for those of us who are locked, it's still a non issue.

And if you blow the rear driveshaft, you'd still have to somehow sever the connection between the front and rear shafts (read: brake the t-case) for the front tires to let the rig go anywhere, assuming your in 4WD with the hubs locked.

This way, you'd have to blow both driveshafts or a driveshaft and T-Case for the vehicle to move, and it would probably be somewhere so sick that it would only move under winch-power anyway - or else it's upside down or on it's side, and your using the new rollcage brake.

Sean, how do you plan to build a mounting bracket for the NP231? I think that is what you have, right? I also wanted to make something, but the 231 doesn't have enough or strong enough bolts to attach it to as far as I can tell. Also, how does the caliper that Allpro and Jessie use mount? Does it bolt solidly to a fabbed mount using the two bottom bolts as seen from the side? I can see how the lever pushes the one pad into the rotor, but how does the outer pad get pulled into the rotor? I once built an e-brake on each wheel using calipers that TSM and Willwood use in their kits, but I could never get it to work very well. They eventually told me that theirs don't work well either but are there only for legality purposes! I thought about installing both calipers (which are built by Hearst Airheart for Go Karts by the way) on a transfer case mounted brake as then I would have the advantage on the diff gearing, but I can't see how to build a mount. I like the All Pro caliper better. What is it from and where can one get it if not through All Pro or Jessie? BTW, here in WI (with an auto), I have been running without a e-brake for years. The stock ones just rust solid anyway! BTW, I am using small GM front calipers on 88-91 GM front rotors mounted on my SJ rear axle in my XJ. :) Jeff

I've got a 242, but I'll have my 300 in when I do the brake setup. It won't matter what case it is if I go with the ball valve setup though.

Easy

Here ya go...use a standard small car caliper and bracket and a small master cyl with a ratchet type parking brake lever to push the piston and hold it there..piece of cake. Now you have a parking brake and a halfass e-brake for $25 at the junkyard

And here's the new sticker the jeff made tonight- Jesshttp://lyonsdesign.bizhosting.com

Originally posted by onetoncv
And here's the new sticker the jeff made tonight- Jesshttp://lyonsdesign.bizhosting.com there was no sticker in my BOX is that a warranty item :flipoff2:

shawn you can bet when there hot off the press in the next few days yours will show up- do you want a white one or black? Jess:D

Originally posted by GearMan
there was no sticker in my BOX is that a warranty item :flipoff2:

I just finished the design today! Jess hasn't even gotten his first order of them yet. :)

white would be pimp hehehehe :D

okay were taking orders - who's next? thanks jeff for gettin that done - like always your makin my buis move along - Jess

Originally posted by onetoncv
okay were taking orders - who's next? thanks jeff for gettin that done - like always your makin my buis move along - Jess

No problem, Jess, happy to help :D.

Jess is there any way that you can come up with a design for the 231 that would be cool. I thank it would sell well for you to. What would the cost be on an item like that be? Thanks.:smokin:

OK Easy, I didn't realize you had a 242 and are you planning to run a flipped 300 eventually? That will take some specialized brackets I imagine to get an output e-brake. I too would like to see something for the 231. There are a bunch of them out there! Jeff

Just an idea,

What about all modern 4 wheel disc cars? What i mean is, the e-brake usually becomes a problem when one converts to rear discs. The only calipers that fit the rotors and stuff we want to use are the old Gm lever actuated type (Caddy, El Dorado etc.) that didn;t work well 30 years ago, and are usually terrible now since most rebuilt calipers of this type don;t rebuild the bit that wears out for the e-brake.

But...what kind of setup do te many modern cars with rear discs have for an e-brake? Are they all hybrid mini drums like the Explorer / ZJ, etc? If not, what about adding a seperate bracket / caliper at a wheel just for the e-brake using a small modern car caliper (assuming it fits over the rotor)? I've seen many race cars with dual calipers at each wheel.

No help for you easy - but you can fab something up with go kart or Enduro motorbike parts, I'm sure.

Course, the ultimat low buck setup would be a springloaded rod and bracket that would just engage a driveshaft yoke and mecanicaly prevent rotation....only downside you'd have to allow a little creep one way or another to get it lined up.

What about adapting a rover e brake?

You can't make one slip.

Your tires will lose traction before one slips.

It is drum right on the rear output of the tcase.

Ron

I don't want to lose the couple inches that a drum would take. I've been thinking about a master cylinder off a quad, wasn't sure if it would work. Hook that up to the stock ebrake handle, maybe mount the cylinder right there at the bottom of the compartment in the console, then it would be real easy to check and see if it's full or not. I won't get to do this until late in the summer, but I'm trying to see my options now so that I can grab that super awesome deal that only happens when you don't have anything planned or the money for that matter.

Easy

"Thank God there's a Texan in charge."


Whoop!

This may or may not work because I have never looked at the brakes on a bus but, buses and some military trucks use air brakes to hold the brakes open so the vehicle can move. How about this on a driveline disk?

Originally posted by evilfij
What about adapting a rover e brake?

You can't make one slip.

Your tires will lose traction before one slips.

It is drum right on the rear output of the tcase.

Ron

I think they're fawkin prejudice! You beat me to it. Every time this topic gets reposted, I bring that up. I guess a drum with the brake swept area of small retaining wall isn't bling-bling enough.

j