So my Cruiser was not being very environmentally friendly and the side cover gasket was the culprit. I purchased an oem gasket and put it on using a slight bit of FIPG to help hold it in place. This seemed to work, but it was very hard to keep it in place since it had been twisted while it was on the shelf and did not want to stay flat.

Needless to say it started leaking at the rear end of the cover after a very short time. I removed the cover again and found that the gasket had shifted and then was crushed in one area. I apparently had also overtightened the bolts.

Before I try this all over again I have a couple questions:
1) What is the torque setting for the side cover bolts?

2) Should I use gasket sealer and if so, which one?

3) Any other tricks & tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Phil

I found some M6 x 1.0 studs over at lowes.
Put about 6 of them in (one at each corner and a few in the center). Then I FIPG'd the gasket, hung it on the studs, and put the side cover on.

WOrked like a dream. No leaks from the side cover since!

-James

So my Cruiser was not being very environmentally friendly and the side cover gasket was the culprit. I purchased an oem gasket and put it on using a slight bit of FIPG to help hold it in place. This seemed to work, but it was very hard to keep it in place since it had been twisted while it was on the shelf and did not want to stay flat.

Needless to say it started leaking at the rear end of the cover after a very short time. I removed the cover again and found that the gasket had shifted and then was crushed in one area. I apparently had also overtightened the bolts.

Before I try this all over again I have a couple questions:
1) What is the torque setting for the side cover bolts?

2) Should I use gasket sealer and if so, which one?

3) Any other tricks & tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Phil

You could try clamping the gasket to the side cover with a strong adheseive between and let dry. Then you would have the gasket stuck to side cover during installation–no movement. Or just weight the side cover on a flat surface after adhering the gasket.

Do you like to inspect under the side cover from time to time? Do you like to take risks? Then, on the block side of the gasket add either anti-sieze (real leak risky) or goop on a removeable gasket sealant that allows one to reposition the gasket as you line up the side cover bolt holes (still leak risky compared to FIPG). But you can later remove the cover to inspect the valvetrain without having to replace the gasket because neither product makes an irremoveable seal. This is what many hot rodders do to their valve covers to allow easy access to the rockers without having to scrap the head side of the gasket sealing surface. Again, big risk of leaks with the thin side cover.

For install and forget, consider The Right Stuff, a rubber based sealant that stays where you put it and holds well. Scrap off time during side cover inspections, though. So what if you never/rarely look under.

"The right stuff" is good stuff...I usually use a non drying gasket sealer to tac the gasket to the sidecover. The six bolts idea is clever for a twisted gasket, I like that. Torque is real minimal on this gasket, I usually just run them in by hand til the gasket starts showing the pressure a little (definately not pooching out tho), then check again after a few heat cycles. This seems to be required of any cork type gasket including oil pans and front covers as well.

Since you admit overtorqing and it was leaking previously, check the area that the bolts go through. It should be flat with the rest of the panel. Overtightening will cause it to bubble out. A quick trip with a ball pien and a block of wood should fix it easy enough. My neighbor just went through this with that panel and the oil pan on his 40.

Scott

I use ultra copper on the cover side, place the gasket on it hhen use spare 6mm bolts and nuts to tighten the gasket down to the cover and leave it overnight. This seals the gasket to the cover. Remove the spare nuts/bolts then use a non stick for sealer for a removable cover or more u;tra copper or FPIG for a leave it one forever cover. Dont overtighten, make sure the cover is flat.

I'm with CaverInaCruiser on the stud thing. I have found this idea to be useful in multiple situations.

Cruzilla also has a very good point about overtightening bubbling out the side cover and needing to peen it back down level.

If you have a 71 and older motor with the PCV valve on the oil filler tube [rather than the side cover] you could also consider a billet aluminum side cover. They will take more torque and are less likely to bow.

There's a little shop in Burbank where I got mine!;)

Thanks for the feedback guys. I am definitely going to add studs, that is a great idea :smokin:

I plan to flatten the new gasket before I put it on this time and straighten/flatten the cover also as needed.

I have never really been a fan of permananet sealers. You just never know when your going to have to remove it (Murphy's law). I have found Toyota fipg to be difficult, but not impossible to remove. I have also used Permatex #2 which is a very sticky, but non-hardening sealer.

I guess I'll go with the Permatex on the block side and added studs. AND not overtighten :D

Any other suggestions or comments?

Phil

I like Permatex #2 as an adhesive/sealant on one side of the gasket and a wipe of oil or grease or gear lube on the other side. This allows the removal and reuse of the entire assembly a couple of times.
About 10 ftlbs of torque is good.
I seal one side and lube the other on all cork or paper style gaskets and they will not leak and can be reused...

Old British etc. motorcycle trick.

Old British etc. motorcycle trick.
Most people do not do that, and that is the whole reason old brit bike get a bad rap for leaking in the usa, electric problems, are another story :shaking:

I prefer to use the non drying sealant on the cover side, and grease on the block side. This means it will come off one or two times easily, and lets you have the "pain in the ass to remove and clean up" part off the truck and in your hands...

This is first time I've heard of using grease on a gasket. Interesting idea.... I use it from time to time in areas where I know bolts/nuts are likely to rust or are already rusty. I learned it from my Gramps who was a Master Mechanic for, like, a hundred years :D

What type of grease?

Phil

Small hijack here.. I do not use grease on studs , bolts etc.Both my cruisers have this on every thread. I use this and man does it ever save time and give piece of mind. Ever tried to drill out a bolt from where your thermostat housing atttaches in the head.I do not use it on gaskets though.

Putting anti-sieze on the block side of the gasket has the advantage of being able to handle heat past 1000 deg. This is why I put it under all my V8 valve cover gaskets to handle the head's heat better than oil or grease. But now that I think of it, the block at the side cover doesn't get all that hot, so the high heat capability of anti-sieze prolly ain't necessary, vice oil or grease. I wonder if oil would soak into the cork gasket better and cause more swelling that would enhance the seal under less torque.

Gotta luv passing on info to the new guys....

As some of you have said....

This works :cool2:

Grease, permatex, whatever.... same end result.

Never thought i'd be a wise old man at 40 :D