I would like to know your opinions on the direction that my buildup should take.

I recently traded my 77 Ford for a 78 CJ7. The CJ has:

Vortec 350, w/ Edelbrock intake and Holley 500cfm 4bbl:D
T150 3speed :barf: :barf:
Dana 20 transfer case
Dana 30 front, AMC 20 rear (open diff and stock gearing)
33x12.50 mud terrains
no lift, stock suspension (yes tires rub badly)
rusty floor pans
decent looking, straight body
(just bought 1.5" lift shackles to try to clear tires a little better)

I like the motor, and it seems to run strong, but I absolutely hate the transmission and I have only been driving it for 2 weeks. I will primarily be wheeling in NC, TN mountains, so a balanced, powerful, strong rig is needed. I also plan to drive the rig up and down the mountain roads to school every day.

As of right now I do not own a welder. I am a poor highschool student, so I cannot spend alot of money at a time. I am really looking for a list of mods that you, more experienced wheelers, would perform to it if you were in the same position.

Here is what I want to do so far in order:
1.5" shackles
custom 2.5" lift packs in rear with offset to allow more flex (custom spring mounts will be needed)
Waggy 2.5" packs with third leaf removed up front
4" drop pitman arm from Wagoneer
lengthen driveshafts
trim fenders
Custom rocker gaurds
full width Dana 44s front and rear
SM465/ Dana 300 combo
4.11 gears and 35" tires

if this is your first 4X4 rig, wheel it like it is...you'll learn a lot more that way.(and learn what YOU need to change, not what others think you need to change)
And we get a lot of post like this and most are made up, post some pic's...

If I were you, I would stay away from the long shackles and gain all your lift from a SOA (spring over axle) with the stock springs, that will give you 5" of lift. The 44's will be a good start but I would work on my transmission and t-case swaps before messing with the axles.

I feel the axles you have will serve you well while you are experimenting with your Jeep.

Rocker guards Good.
Fiberglass the floorboards for now.

Also check the brakelines for signs of cracking or rubbing before you find the fast way down the mountian.

HTH

Its not exactly my first rig, but tha last one, I always used to wheel in 2wd, since the hub would blow every time I hit the trail (thats what 550 ftlbs of torque will do for you). It is kind of funny to think that I am only 16 and already have built and sold one rig and am on my 2nd. This is my first rig that I really plan to do hard trails with. I want to build this one right the first time, so that I do not have to spend the money with expirementation (although that is the only way to really learn). I did to much of that with the last one. I would like to start with trail proven mods and build from there. The only thing that I do not want to do is to throw some lockers in there immediately. I would like to learn how to drive really well first without the added advantage of lockers ( or spools :D)

here's you pic, Brian...

'nother one

and another one

and a last one

just for the record....those pics are of Big4294X4's rig...:flipoff2:

Well, here is my $0.02

Skip the suspension mods for now, get a 2" body lift to clear the tires. I'd look at the tranny upgrade first (I blew up two T150's behind a mild 304) and save money for doing an SOA (with stock springs) You will need a ladder bar and a longer rear driveshaft. If you use the stock springs, you can get away with only a 4" drop pitman arm up front.

Then wheel it a while, when you strip the two piece axles in the AMC 20, swap in a Scout D44 rear - that set up will carry you through 35" tires.

Then wheel it somemore and you will see where to head next.

Good Luck!

The adapter, from Advanced Adapters to mate a SM465 to a Dana300 is $525. That sounds like quite a bit of money that could be saved if you went with the NP205. A lot of people dig the 205. Having the 205 however, means your drive line needs to be Chevy at the t-case end and Jeep at the axle end. Thats fine cause you are lengthening your d-lines anyhow. But should you ever want to go ahead and install Chev axles later, and have a complete Chev drive train, you would have to re-do the d-lines. This very reason is why my Jeep sits the way it is now. 304ci-T-150 (3-speed)-Dana20 and Dana30 front / AMC20 rear with one peice kit from Yukon Gear and Axle. I am not going to change out any of those units until I can change them all. In the mean time I hope I do not break anything really significant. I am waiting for a good deal on an old Chevy 4x4 (farm romper and POS) that contains a 350ci-SM465-NP205 and 3/4 ton axles. All of which will be swapped into the Jeep at the same time. I could do the axles right now, but I don't want to do my d-lines twice. I am also installing the axles full width (outboarded in front) so that I maintain stock axle shafts that can be replaced without re cutting and splining. I've rambled too much and shall end my post.
Shaggy

I'm in the same situation as you Big4x4 just a high school student trying to wheel. If you want to save money on building the rig do everything your self it saves lots of money and the only time i have had my rig in the shop was to have some smog work done because I don't know jack about it. Also look at things that will make it wheel better and not make it look better. as for your floor boards i had the same problem there a 2 things you can do get a heavy duty gauge of sheet metal and bend it to fit on the floor or cut out the old section and wled in a piece of steel the same thickness. but you don't have a welder (Borrow One).
AS for the tranny swap you might want to swap in a T-18 because it will bolt right up to the stock bell housing and a adapter to your dana 20 is only $465 at novak
http://www.novak-adapt.com/
But these are hard to find you might just want to go with the Np435 which has a lower gears than the T-18 and it is a lot easier to find. this is the direction i am going because the short length of my rig.

Oh yea one last thing you need a sawszall if you want to be cheap for now.