: stiff springs


Peter Zombori
10-07-2004, 01:04 PM
help me out here- I have a 1/2 ton straight axle Chevy w/ a 4" suspension lift (Superlift "softride"). This thing rides so rough, it shakes itself apart. Even on road I'll bounce when I hit a piece of bird crap! what can I do?

blacksheep10
10-07-2004, 02:14 PM
throw those away and put 52" rears up front

Peter Zombori
10-07-2004, 02:48 PM
what do I need to do then? relocate shackes or hangers? I did a 3/4 ton axle swap the same time as the lift. do bigger axles help or hurt the ride?

Peter Zombori
10-07-2004, 03:28 PM
I've tried flexing them, but they don't have much travel

4x4Poet
10-07-2004, 03:48 PM
What shocks are you using? Super stiff or weak shocks can let some springs give a harsh ride.

Look into custom springs with smooth riding features like many thin leave and teflon pads at the tapered leaf-ends. Alcan, National Spring, Deaver all make such custom springs.

rcurrier44
10-07-2004, 04:46 PM
Call this to stiff? Not much travil? I think he is using a stock pack.

http://www.planet4x4.net/pics/ff1.jpg

Shwillin-D
10-07-2004, 04:56 PM
throw those away and put 52" rears up front
How much of a lift does putting rear springs on the front of your rig give? :confused: Does it flex a lot better? I have a 6" tuff country lift, and I seem to have a lot of flex, but it does ride like shit.

Triaged
10-07-2004, 05:08 PM
I bet those springs are stiffer then Tough Country's heavy duty springs...let alown their EZ-rides. 52's are softer yet. Do a search if that is what you want to do. many people have done it before.

blacksheep10
10-07-2004, 10:47 PM
6" is about what to expect out of 52's. just a ball park figure because you can add or subtract leaves, build you perches and shackles at different heights, etc. From what I have seen they ride better and flex way more. that is what the flexed ass blazer above has

77chev
10-08-2004, 01:06 AM
I run 4" rancho springs part number RS86201, and they are great. They are stiff enough to run the truck without the sway-bar, but soft enough to not hurt the ride hardly at all. They flex great, and just ride really nice.

4x4Poet
10-08-2004, 01:32 AM
I should have suggested before a cheaper start/alternative:

OffRoadDesign.com has these cool greaseable front shackles (http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/hdshackles.htm) that are worth adding no matter what spring you may go to. They're a half inch longer to help the shackle rotate farther back before hitting the bottom of the frame. Check your frame above the shackle-end springeye for frame strikes. Also, you may find ORD's shackles help your springs flex more smoothly for an improved ride. Good to try before taking more expensive steps.

Peter Zombori
10-08-2004, 10:27 AM
The springs all around are new- the front is 4" superlift, the rears are stock blazer (also new) w/ a 4" block. I already took 1 leaf out of the rears. The shocks are pro comp es 3000 all the way around. The front swaybar is still hooked up because I still can't break the bolts ( I've oiled them for 4 months now)

I'd really hate to swap out springs again

Shwillin-D
10-08-2004, 10:32 AM
You may want to take a look at your body mounts as well. I know that my 78 chevy rode way better with the new mounts. I know that energy suspentions makes some great body mounts for your truck.

Peter Zombori
10-08-2004, 05:32 PM
Body mounts look pretty solid. I know the superlift springs I have are rated @ 560 lbs/in. , which is stiffer than alot of the others ( I found out too late). does anybody else out there run these?

Would different shocks help me, or should I start w/ the greasable shackles?

Triaged
10-08-2004, 07:25 PM
That swaybar is the problem. When you lift it it puts it at an angle. The more verticle it gets the more it will transmit bumps from the suspension to the body. If you can't remove it just get some new u-bolt plates that don't have that stupid swaybar attached. If you want to keep the swaybar on the street get some ORD disconnects. They also fix the swaybar geometry for lifted trucks.

4x4Poet
10-08-2004, 10:32 PM
That swaybar is the problem. When you lift it it puts it at an angle. The more verticle it gets the more it will transmit bumps from the suspension to the body. If you can't remove it just get some new u-bolt plates that don't have that stupid swaybar attached. If you want to keep the swaybar on the street get some ORD disconnects. They also fix the swaybar geometry for lifted trucks.
Good call, Triaged! I should have thought of the ORD swaybar disconnects when I suggested the ORD shackles. :emb2: :laughing:
Lombori, start with the following measures:

1. Look at ORD products for aligning the swaybar with the lift.

2. Get the ORD swaybar disconnects so you can eliminate swaybar bind off-road and for suspension analysis purposes.

3. Get the ORD greasable shakles so you can give those longer-than-stock springs room to move and thereby determine their true stiffness without any shackle binding you may have now.

We've told you how to spend your money, now get to work and leave us alone till your done. :grinpimp:

Peter Zombori
10-09-2004, 03:07 AM
4x4 poet & triaged- thanks, I'll disconnect that sway bar and give those shackles a shot. I'm just afraid of torching off the swaybar bolts (its a daily driver). Here goes another can of wd-40

Jishory
10-09-2004, 04:34 AM
i got some ord swaybar disconnects and poly swaybar bushings for sale if you are interested

Peter Zombori
10-09-2004, 07:49 PM
Jishory- yeah, I'm interested. How can I get ahold of you?

PartTimeAdult
10-11-2004, 04:44 AM
I highly suspect his pro-comps are a big component of his problem

My experience is the pro-comps dampen much more on the compress than the return, just the opposite of most others, making everything you hit extra harsh.

Get some rancho RS9000's and set them up right.
You can even set them according to temperature, for instance winter vs summer temps you may want to give them a click.