Swapping a 400 chevy with a sm465 into my cruiser. Where and is there a hydro slave cylinder for the sm465? I cannot see using the linkage that a stock chevy has. Can I use the stock cruiser clutch master cylinder? Any pics, websites. This is going into a 69 fj-40 if that matters. Thanks.

Side note

1969-1978
5.7L 350 ENG.
INCHES: 12
Imput Shaft 1-1/8-10
TO Bearing #N1716
$39.95

Dual Friction
#DF024909
$415.95
(Disc Included)

This is the info I found on the centerforce site for clutch info. Is this correct for a sm465? They didn't specify the type of tranny, just the engine and year.

Centerforce didn't specify the transmission because the type of manual tranny is irrelevant as far as the clutch slave cylinder is concerned. What is important is the type of bellhousing, TO bearing and release arm you have. The type and location of the slave cylinder will depend on those factors, not on the fact that you have an SM420. Back in the days when SM420s were used in OEM applications, we didn't have hydraulic clutches, and the original bellhousings were built to work with manual clutches.

Don't waster your $$$ on a centerforce - buy a LUK or someother manf. 12" chevy/GMC truck clutch for $130 from Summit.

Look at the thread called SM465, and you can see what the bracket looks like - make it yourself - it should be welding project #1 for a wheeler.

Ok, possibly I have the 465, I am super new to the chevy 4 speeds so bear with me. I just acquired this tranny sunday. I will have to try and ID it tonite. I know it came out of like a 77 3/4 ton chevy and the transfer case is one that actually has 2 hi, not 2 hi with the front shaft still spinning, full time 4x4 I think??? I know it is all steal and no alum, NP 203?

Main question is the slave cylinder, I can fab the bracket that is needed, but I am looking for the type of slave cylinder to use. Would the toyota one work?

As far as the centerforce info, I was using was just what I found, They kick ass, but I am not dead set on buying one at this point. The bellhouseing seems to be steal, and the fork is the stock fork.

Main plan is to transplant the 400 - 4 spead - chevy transfer into the cruiser. Probably will keep the cruiser axles for now.

It has to be a 465 if it is from a 77. The tcase is likely the all cast 203, and if you have that combo, the adapter between the tranny and tcase is sought after.

Yes you can use a toy slave. I would be surprised if teh bellhousing was steel - most likely cast alumium. The cast steel units are much older IIRC.

Centerforce clutches are OK for high RPMs, but you really don't gain much on a sbc.... and at 3 to 4 x the price - forget it!

Spend your money on a good rad, fan and shroud - you will need it to keep the 400 cool.

I built my own bracket out of a piece of 3/8 thick plate.
Drilled two holes to mount to the engine block, then about 2" below that I drilled and taped two holes to mount the the toy slave cylinder. Worked awsome till I installed the th400. I still have the plate if you want it. call (707)794-8423.

Jeff

TLCObsession!
Im moving to Seattle.
Do you know of any good trails to wheel at. If so we should get together and do some wheelin.

i used all my old cruiser stuff, i have a pic at home. my buddy made the braket and it bolts to the driver side of teh block! jiMMy

Jeff, I sent you a mail, thanks.

Jimmy

If you could post a pic, that would be great. I did some searching, but could not find a decent pic. Thanks.

Lee

Clutch Boot 3765360
Cast Iron Clutch Shift Fork 5687296


Anyone know the prices of these parts off hand? Doesn't have to be exact, just an estimate. They are stock GM part #'s for the SM465.

you will have to add a 1 to the clutch fork(15687296), and i just got mine today from work(work at a chev dealership) and it cost me 34$ for the fork and 13 for the boot....
Now my question is, do i need to get an early throw out bearing, the lip of the bearing does not fit over the fork(sm465, alum. bell housing).. and i just orderd the an fj40 clutch master and slave, bot items togethter cost $114..

first thing is I have run a 400 4 bolt main
with the sm420.
You will have problems keeping the 400
cool . If you have the option I would
highly recomend a 350.


FOR best results on clutch set up
I recomend useing a corvet slave
and replaceing the master cylinder
with a older toyota hilux brake cylinder
also buy the adjustable ball mount
for clutch arm from sumit.

ps the brake master is a bolt on and the corvet
slave uses the same metric hose as the toy

for preashure plate I recomend the
older style with the 4 arms instead of
the newer style whith all ofthe fingers.

the reson is because if you play in the mud
the older style will clean better
and it has more travel.

Originally posted by weigellj
Jeff, I sent you a mail, thanks.

Jimmy

If you could post a pic, that would be great. I did some searching, but could not find a decent pic. Thanks.

Lee doh i almost forgot ya, here ya go

Jimmy

Excellent pic, Thanks.

Only choice of engine for me right now is the 400 chevy.

Landcrusher

What did you do to keep yours cool?

I figure 160 turdmostat, dual elec fans and Hi vol water pump. Also some sort of custom rad. I take it the stock cruiser rad won't do it. It appears to be the same size/dimension as my AA rad in my extra cab (4.3 chevy in that one).

I guess I need the info on the throw out bearing as well. It should come in the clutch kit, I would assume.

Any preferencess on piolet bearing. The parts guy was telling me about a needle roller, instead of the stock type?

I run with 400hp TPI350. Stock that engine runs 210 degrees.
Idid live in the sacramento valley temps would reach 115 degrees at times. I could'nt even drive 20miles before boiling over. So I went with a L/C 4row radiator, hypertec 160 degree thermo & 160degree fan switch, also run a 15" camaro electric fan from pick n pull for $15 and 2 12" in the front. Just in case the the engine gets to warm, the 15"fan is running all the time. Have'nt had any problems with over heating.

The bracket in the picture above looks simular to the one I made. Except mine's a solid piece of 3/8 thick square plate, with two holes drilled to bolt to block and two holes tapped, to bolt the slave cylinder down. worked for two years untill i put the TPI in.

I sent you a e-mail I need some info to send it to ya. Im going to copy it for some one else and my self. I'll even send you the slave cylinder with it. If I can find it I'll even send the master clutch as well.

I asked the Q in the other thread: Can anyone tell me if you can swap the clutch fork w/o dropping the tranny?

I want to try switching to the cast fork, but not if it means dropping the tranny.

Crash?

Unfortunately, the steel fork won't come out with the tranny installed, and getting the cast one in is a bitch, but doable. BTDT.

Brian -

so basically I would have unbolt the bellhousing & drop the whole deal? Crap not what I want to do.... any way to mutilate the steel fork (plasma cutter, die grinder etc) to get it out? I would just about have to pull the engine to get the tranny out - It's almost easier that way....

Guess I'll leave it the way it is and do it sometime in the future...

When I was running the sm420 I had to change out the pilot bearing once. I pulled the tunnel pan off and threw a strap over my roll cage, then under the trans. Unbolted it from the eng. Pulled it away from the eng about 6" and was able to swap out fork and bearing. Realy helps to have two straps. Leave the eng setting on a block so as to keep it at the same hight. Realy easy if you do it right.

Only problem is that I may have to do more because of the fact I probably have to tilt the engine/tranny combo because of the interference between the e-brake & cross member.

If I stay unemployed long enough I may do it.

Thanks,

Jim

I had to remove my transfercase to do it, the way I was talking about. If you have good eng mounts they should hold the eng inplace pretty well.

I used to live in tweed twenty up by lake Whatcom.
Im finnally moving back to WA Seattle area. Is there any good 4x4 groups up there.
I used to wheel at the power lines, canyon creek, galbrith and all over the nooksack when I was younger. If you know of any good rock trails our just good trails period. We should get together when Im up there and do some wheelin.

Sounds like you got the slave figgured out but as far as cooling Griffin makes really good aluminum radiators for a good price mine was 275.00 and I use a Flex a lite BLACK MAGIC 160.00$ and it kicks ass never had a single over heating problem it has a ajustable thermostat and you can hook up an over ride switch for water crossings or if the thermostat goes tits up.

Originally posted by Arnett
I had to remove my transfercase to do it, the way I was talking about. If you have good eng mounts they should hold the eng inplace pretty well.

I used to live in tweed twenty up by lake Whatcom.
Im finnally moving back to WA Seattle area. Is there any good 4x4 groups up there.
I used to wheel at the power lines, canyon creek, galbrith and all over the nooksack when I was younger. If you know of any good rock trails our just good trails period. We should get together when Im up there and do some wheelin.

The Reiter/Sultan Basin, Walker Valley, and part s of the North Fork are the closest legal trails. Galbraith is pretty much bootleg, don't know canyon creek...

shoot me a message when you get up here. Where will you be living?

Jim

Originally posted by TLCObsession


The Reiter/Sultan Basin, Walker Valley, and part s of the North Fork are the closest legal trails. Galbraith is pretty much bootleg, don't know canyon creek...

shoot me a message when you get up here. Where will you be living?

Jim
Walker valley is the only legal place. Sultan basin, reiter trials and the north fork are not considered LEGAL places by either the forest service or the DNR.. Granted, we still have those areas due to the fact that the dnr turns there HEADS so to speak for now...

the best way to keep a 400 cool

is grifen aluminum radiater black majic fan
and redline water wetter.
if still not cool enugh?
A remote oil cooler is the next step.
I also I recomend removeing the two bars that go
across the front that are part of the
head light bezel.

I have done a lot of research and this
is the best set up,,,