I'm planing on building a 3 link and have just read through all the links for dummies threads and the GOS one it pretty much went over my head.
I came up with this idea
http://www.k6plus.com/blue/links.jpg
http://www.k6plus.com/blue/sidelinks.jpg

does that look like it would flex? the link ontop of the diff Im going to use a heim joint and bushings on the rest. also what wall tubing should I use?

One thing I see is that you show your lower links only 22" long. That is too short. A good rule of thumb is your links should be at least 36" long, mine are 40". As for tubing 1 1/2" 1/4" wall should be minimum, mine are 1 1/2" 5/16" wall and they have held up very well.

One thing I see is that you show your lower links only 22" long. That is too short. A good rule of thumb is your links should be at least 36" long, mine are 40". As for tubing 1 1/2" 1/4" wall should be minimum, mine are 1 1/2" 5/16" wall and they have held up very well.

I agree with this for the most part, I just wouldn't have said they should be at least 36". The links in the Schaffer kit are 35" long, my current front links are about 32", and my rear links are about 30", and I have more than enough flex. 22" is definately on the short side though.

alright thanks for the info

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/cbradfor/zuk%20buildup%2003/32303%20001.jpg
that design should work pretty well.....i agree with the lower link length comments.....i think mine are 33"......my flex is limited by the coil springs being retained at both ends but i vary rarely lift a tire on the trail so it really doesn't concern me.....helps keep the suspension predictable......my lower links are 1.5" square tubing 3/16" wall......they have taken a beating......currently one has a very slight bow but these have been in service for 2 years now.....good luck

Your setup and what Corey posted above are very similar to what is offered bt RRO and Shaffers. I have weeled with Corey a few times and he is ight, his setup works VERY well. Here are a few pics of what is currently under he Popsicle

http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/her_zuki/DSC00281.JPG

http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/nc_zuk/Rear_under_suspension.JPG

http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/nc_zuk/P4100047.JPG

http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/nc_zuk/all_Rear.JPG

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v106/nc_zuk/DSC00280.jpg

Your vertical seperation at the axle could be around 6" and set you axle at 10" also extend your arm length and if possable make top and bottom links closer to the same length to keep the pinion from walking up or down during articulation.

Your vertical seperation at the axle could be around 6" and set you axle at 10" also extend your arm length and if possable make top and bottom links closer to the same length to keep the pinion from walking up or down during articulation.

I'd be leary with 6" seperation at the axle, depending on the suspension and gearing he's gonna use. I originally had 6" and with my coils, 35's, and 6.1 case/4.38 R/P I had really bad axle wrap (under load the pinion would point up and I broke a shock). I moved it to 7" and haven't had a problem since.

I'd be leary with 6" seperation at the axle, depending on the suspension and gearing he's gonna use. I originally had 6" and with my coils, 35's, and 6.1 case/4.38 R/P I had really bad axle wrap (under load the pinion would point up and I broke a shock). I moved it to 7" and haven't had a problem since.
Keith, How were you getting axle wrap with a link setup? I think the movement had to of been in the rubber bushings. Right? :confused:

I'd be leary with 6" seperation at the axle, depending on the suspension and gearing he's gonna use. I originally had 6" and with my coils, 35's, and 6.1 case/4.38 R/P I had really bad axle wrap (under load the pinion would point up and I broke a shock). I moved it to 7" and haven't had a problem since.

I meant 6" at the frame and 10" at the axle

nc zuk are you running a bushing on the top of the diff?

nc zuk are you running a bushing on the top of the diff?

I think he has the new upgraded 1" hiem?

zukiboy i see by your photo you are not running shocks,hows the ride?
also ive heard that link suspensions hate mud,any feedback on this?

nc zuk are you running a bushing on the top of the diff?
It is an adjustable Jonny joint.

http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/nc_zuk/P4100047.JPG

http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/nc_zuk/P4090037.JPG

http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/nc_zuk/P4090042.JPG

Dr. Zuk n Stein,
Start getting :flipoff2: the rig torn down while you are researching your plans. Start the buildup now and afford yourself plenty of time to revise over the winter months, all too often the warm weather arrives in spring and while I'm out wheelin the other fools are still wrenchin.
My rig starts going under the knife next weekend. Just picked up a full width Corporate 10Bolt for the front and am looking for a 12 bolt for the rear.
The Plan is to run YJ Leafs in the front and Bronco control arms in the rear extending the frame out back by 6 inches and running 37"s.
Get cracking on your suspension Buckaroo!

are you talking about your buggy GD or your sammi? also bryan says you have some tj springs any chance you want to get rid of them?

these any better? I think Im going to run heims instead of bushings on everything but the upper wish bone.

http://www.k6plus.com/blue/3link/newlinks2.jpg
http://www.k6plus.com/blue/3link/newsidelinks.jpg

any one?

Looks pretty good to me. If you can really keep your links that parallel to the ground (ie, not a lot of lift) then you should have a nice runner. You will have a good amount of rear steer during large amounts of flex, but that is fine. Don't worry about it.

I think you will be pretty happy with this setup. Tack it together and give it some tests before final welding.

On the center link, bring the "V" all of the way to the bushing or heim that you are going to use. You want a "V", not a "Y" as pictured above onthe other rig. If the link pictured above is going to fail, it will fail at the "Y" connection.

-Wayne

On the center link, bring the "V" all of the way to the bushing or heim that you are going to use. You want a "V", not a "Y" as pictured above onthe other rig. If the link pictured above is going to fail, it will fail at the "Y" connection.

-Wayne

You are a very wise man :D Ask me how I know :(

right on thats what I wanted to hear, I have already started preping an axle housing I will take pics when its done

You are a very wise man :D Ask me how I know :(


D'ooh!

I see a lot of people making the same mistake on ladder bars too. You have to carry the "V" all the way up otherwise you make a huge stress point.

-Wayne

If you had axle wrap with a link suspension then you fawked up somewhere. The verticle seperation at the chassi or even at the axle does not dictate how much axle wrap you have. If you used large bushings then the wrap is coming from the compression within the bushing. Not that a wishbone 3 link won't work, cause on the old car I had it worked quite flawlessly, 7 inches seperation at the axle and 3 1/2 at the chassi, but you could achieve better characteristics with a traditional 3 link with panhard set up (such as higher roll center). I recommend looking into all the suspension designs before you start building. On my current car I run panhard 3 links front and rear and I can rest the car on the sidewalls of the tires with me sitting in the car and it won't flip over. It's definitely something worth studying!

pics or i didn't happen :flipoff2:

On my current car I run panhard 3 links front and rear and I can rest the car on the sidewalls of the tires with me sitting in the car and it won't flip over. It's definitely something worth studying!

pics or i didn't happen :flipoff2:


I trust Eric. he has no need to lie or beat his chest on the interweb. If anything I wish he would speak up more and share more details. His old rig was a real wake up call for me, and got me to planning a new build up. Now that he is about done with the new rig, I'm affraid to even go look at it as I know it will be another great performer.

-Wayne

NO PICS FOR YOU!
It's for my viewing pleasure, not yours!
Give me a call Wayne and you can come out next week and take a peek.

Yeah, now that the rains have passed maybe I'll be able to make it out there. I'm interested in see how you have linked up. I like what Rusty has done in the rear and it sounds like you might be doing something similar?

I'm looking forward to another good weekend of work on mine. Have it pretty well stripped down, might be starting the new chassis as early as the following weekend. We are planning on doing like Rusty and building with the axles at full stuff. Might even angle the driveline to make more room for an exhaust driveline conflict. This will be a very new approach to building for me.

-Wayne