I am planning my SOA on my 86 CJ7 and need advice on the steering. I have a Dana 30 in the front. Is the Dana 30 going to work for me? If so, what do I need to make the steering work properly?

The main reason I suggest to my freinds to swap to a D44 when doin an SOA, is due to the steering issues. there are no good aftermarket steering options without flat top knuckles.
Tri County makes some stuff that can be uesd with new knuckles and all, for about $1000
The D30 has no junk yard flat top options, so most attempts to fix the steering is just a band aid, on a dying patient.
Thats what amazed me that the new TJ Rubicon edition, was given D44 axles but D30 outers,????

I dunno what you can do, maybe someone has been doing more recent research on the D30 steering issues, but even the K link system from Full traction, is kind of a "better mouse trap" conglomoration of engineering that runs about $600 or more.

Its cheaper to just swap a D44, unless you already have tons of money in your D30. In any case, I would still highly recomend a D44 swap with an SOA.

Where is my hospitality??
Welcome Newbie:flipoff2:

Sorry H8......... the 86 CJ would use the early style Dana 30
these have the same Knuckle 'c' as a Dana44
Mr CJ7 could use D44 knuckles on his D30 to get high steer right away (and convert to a Dana 44 axle at his leisure)
The only thing he would need to do is swap the brake backing plates and calipers to a Chev (delco) style.

Originally posted by CRO
Sorry H8......... the 86 CJ would use the early style Dana 30
these have the same Knuckle 'c' as a Dana44
Mr CJ7 could use D44 knuckles on his D30 to get high steer right away (and convert to a Dana 44 axle at his leisure)
The only thing he would need to do is swap the brake backing plates and calipers to a Chev (delco) style.


Well, there ya have it.
Then I say, high steer, behind the diff tie rod, with hydraulic ram assist. :D
Did I mention it would also be a good time to do D44 swap.

I didnt even consider that the CJ D30's had the ability to use D44 flat tops. In that case give Steve N a call he has a good deal going on at least the passenger side flat top. Then get a flat top driver side from a Chevy, buy a set of high knuckle steering arms, and......, hell one of you bright Newbies with good CJ knowledge can take it from here. Heres your time to shine:flipoff2:

Yeah, I thought the knuckles were interchangeable. They can be put on the 30 now & swapped to a 44 when you get it.
You can just use a dop pitman arm, but hi-steer is a better way to go.
I would agree with H8 & say get a D44 now since you will probably want to run at least 35" tires. There's no piont in dumping money into upgrading the 30. If you already have upgraded shaft with 297's & a locker, it's probably wort putting the high-steer on it.

But the cheapest way to get that stuff is to buy the axle... and then you're back to the beginning

So, all I need to do is get the D44 knuckles, brake backing plates and calipers and thats it? Then I will have a Hi-steer setup, sounds too easy.

Could I get this at a junk yard? If so, what do I ask for?

In my opinion if u are going to just do the outer kunckle from a 44 then I would highly recomend that u get the knuckles from an 80 - 86 Dodge half ton this includes the Ramchargers. It is a 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern. Some came with locking hubs and if it didn't then u can get a quick easy conversion form warn or superwinch, U also get 2 factory high steer knuclkes. The pass side only need to be milled flat and tapped and u are all done with high steer. When u later upgrade to a 44 u simply unbolt the knuckle form your 30 and bolt it on.

I'd suggest getting a Chevy D44 with flat top knuckles and using the knuckles, backing plates, calipers, stub shafts, and spindles with some Ford hub and rotors for your D30 now. Then narrow the housing / shafts and pick a carrier and gears for the D44 later when you get the money.

I wish I would have done this with mine, but instead, I did the opposite. I'm running a D44 with D30 outers because I ran out of money to do both. I think a crew cab long bed pickup has a tighter turning radius than my jeep because the steering is either hitting a spring or the front diff.

I have a friend who owns a junk yard. He told me to get a parts list of everything I will need to do this steering setup. I am not a mechanic nor have I done this kind of work before. I am confused on what parts to use. Can anyone help me make a parts list.

I highly suggest upgrading your tie rod and drag link. You'll need a wagoneer pitman arm or stay with the stock size and have your steering arms machined for the smaller TRE (tie rod end). Here's one recipe that will work, there are others.

Junk yard: the years are close

Mid 70's GM D44 flat top knuckles, backing plates, calipers, and spindles.

Late 70's to early 90's Ford F150/Bronco hub and rotors.

Wagoneer pitman arm (if you want to run larger TRE)

I run the www.jeepextremes.com high steer setup with my D44 SOA. It's only 2 months old and I hate cold weather wheeling so I can't tell you how it does off-road until April. On road it is better than stock. I've taken some pics at www.peake.com/ooc/mycj
It's a 85 CJ7.
Chris

As you can see there are a ton of different ways you can do this, the easiest and cheapest would be to buy those tapered sleeves that you can get. You drill D30 arms the same way you would if you were to use heim joints, then drop the sleeve in and weld it. Sorry can't remember who makes the sleeves.
Or use the Dodge axles but I thought they were 5 on 4.5, you can verify that, and instead of getting the passenger side milled just get one from Steve N and use the Dodge spindles and out, that is if they are truly 5 on 5.5. A complete axle should be no more than $100 - $200 hub to hub.

Cheap works for me as long as it is done right. Tell me more about these sleeves, it sounds too good to be true. Do you weld these sleeves in and then your done? I want to do this the cheapest and easiest way possible, but want it done right. I would rather spend a little cash and be safe then do something questionable. Where so you get the sleeves?

Check out http://www.goferitoffroad.com/index.htm
I know they have the bushings that fit a TJ but I don't know if the taper is the same for CJ's. With this setup there would be no need to build or buy new rods or ends. HTH