Has anyone used something other than the factory mount to postion their shackle. The reason I ask is that I am not using Ford Springs, so the length of the spring was differant, so I had to knock out the rivets, and re-weld on the mount. Well know I want to shorten my wheelbase a little, and have to move the hanger again.....but I don't think I will be able to reuse the one I have......any suggestions?
Thanks,

Brian--

back in the early days of my pondering of how I wanted to mount my solid axle I thought about taking the stock mounts off completely and using CJ or YJ style mounts and instead of mounting to the outside of the frame like the ranger and B2, mount them directly on the bottom of the frame.
I figured I would be able to use a flater spring due to the fact that moving them to that location would give me at a min. 3 inches of lift, however, since I do not know the true strength of the frame I figured also that where I mounted them, I would have to box in the frame to add to the strength.
I also concluded that with the set up I would be able to do the front and back the same way, use the HD shackel hangers and shackels and still come out cheaper then leaf rear and coil front.

just a thought.
later
bazz

The only problem with mounting under the frame ( because trust me....I have thought about it alot) is the front mount on the drivers side would require the removal of my gas tank to remove the spring bolts.....:(

Brian--

YO, 1Ugly, dunno if this helps at all, but maybe sharing information will help us both...

Im currenty working a projetc wish includes:

1980' Short Bed Frame
1989-1992 EXT cab Body & Chopped / Bobbed bed.
Dana 60 Rear SOA
Dana 44 Front SOA

For the front i will mount the leaf springs under the frame. And i believe i will be mounting the rear springs under the frame too...

I will be using CJ7 1987 Rear Pack Leafs for my D44 Front, arced to 3.5" with a 2.5" addaleaf Buggy style. Shackle up front, due to the geometry of the ranger frame, this will make for better leaf spring angles and spring perch angles. Boxed frame at critical stress points.

For the rear, i will use stock Ranger leafs, packed with an adtional long leaf, re-arched to 4" with a 2.5" addaleaf and the stock 2.5" block. Rear RS9012's mounted "A" style. & Boxed frame at critical stress points.

(Note: I now have a 1985 Ranger with soa Dana 30 up front, never any failures, or breakage, and, i pound that thing!... Anyway, is reverse shackle flat spring. It works great, but the geometry of the front soa shackle reverse is just tooo funky. -lookn & Building for something new)

I would like to go under the frame, but for the time being, I can't move the tank, and putting it in the back is impossible, since the frame is getting cut off just past the shackle..... sooooo, I guess I'm stuck.

Brian--

I guess I should have stated this before, but...

my plan was (is) to remove the tank all together and put an external cell (probably 22gal) in my rear cargo area. now mind you I've got a B2 not a ranger but the frames are basicly identical, other than length of course, now not knowing where the tank sits on a ranger (mid ship right?) I'm not sure how you would go about solving the problem. My next step from here is to decide if I want to go EB width or full with. with full width I can put an exocage without worring about the extra weight contributing to my already top heavy rig. and if I go EB width I have to decide what to do about those 2 rock magnet widows in the rear of the thing.

but to get off my problems, I think a fuel cell would be your best bet. if you are bobbing the frame you could loose the bed altogther and tube up a mount for the cell and some storage space for recovery gear and spare parts.
just a thought
later
bazz

I'm not bobing the bed, I am gonna build a tube/bed/cage contraption...The only problem with a fuel cell is smog...
I really don't want to get too far away from legal if I don't have to.

It just looks bad when a smog tech had a rig that can't be smogged legally:D :D .

Brian--

Just take your tank from under the truck and mount it in the bed, keep the factory filler tube and your still smog legal.

Ryan

Don't know if this would apply to a Ranger, but I just picked up a set of Bent & Twisted spring brackets and F150 springs for my EB. The brackets are "U" shaped and slide over the frame. The springs are mounted outside of the frame rail. They may just work for your application. It's a pretty cool set-up.

Just FYI:) Good luck!

Hey Rubi, is there a pic of these on there site? Cause I can't find it. If not, can you post one, or tell me where you are in Brentwood, so I can come steal yours:D :D

Brian--

Sorry Brian- I couldn't find and pics either. You're welcome to come out and take a look sometime.

If you're interested, send me a PM and I'll send you my number.

P.S. If you see Ryan Taylor- Tell him I said Hi!

Mark, I will definetly take you up on that offer...
Why don't you head out to Hollister on the 16th, so I can see them in action??

I see Ryan almost everyday, thats his truck that I am parked on in the pics at the top of the forum.. I'll shoot you a PM and give you my # so we can meet up.

Brian--

Brain- Sent ya a PM:)

Here is a pic of the B & T spring hangers.

http://www.SierraRockCrawlers.com/images2/0648.jpg

Thanks for the pic, I assume the shackle end looks the same?

Brian--

Uh, no. The pic is a solid mount. The shackle is a regular shackle hanging down from the frame. You can make them yourself depending on the amount of lift you need.