did any one see Roadlesss gears web site lattly they have Newfields for the zuk. roadless gears newfields (http://www.roadlessgear.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?&store_code=rgl&screen=PROD&product_code=CV100) 580 not sure what i think about this but i'm kinda curios how strong they are I'd liek to see a set beaten lol and see the results
if its positive I might get a set if i break my stock ones after I lock up

( only considering cause i'm only a 1.3 and have spent money on the RRO OTT new perches and gears)

They look great to me! I'll certainly consider them when I break my stockers.

Seems like a waste unless they are also making the shaft stronger. I ran the press on birf rings when I had my Zuk axles, the weak point became the axle shaft.

Its is rear shaft size in the front, 4130.. It would be quite stronger than stock, good for running 32-33's, probably with reliability.. Can't tell until someone runs them tho..

Scott

I bought toyota axles and got them installed for less then the price of those birfs

I bought toyota axles and got them installed for less then the price of those birfs

But then you add on the price of new wheels because the lug pattern is different and driveline mods and oh the price of a locker not to mention two for yotas. I would have to disagree. :flipoff2:

bump ... because art is too good to search lol

Man, I have no idea how I missed that :shaking: I went ahead and deleted it :D

But then you add on the price of new wheels because the lug pattern is different and driveline mods and oh the price of a locker not to mention two for yotas. I would have to disagree. :flipoff2:

Not if you buy the 6 lug wheels in the first place, along with the gears and lockers for the Yota axles. The driveline mod costs next to nothing using stock Yota driveshafts. I wasted all that money the first time around too.

Art, and i just had to say it!!
way off topic but forget wheeling right now I'm on the ride of my life .. bering sea late october.
I can bearly hold on let alone type, we're hiting almost 20 foot seas! hoo rah! ( yep i'm out to sea and have internet think slower then dial up lol)

Que the turd polish picture..............

Que the turd polish picture..............

Aw... Come-on! Give the stock Zuk crap another try.....I did and it's holding up to 35" Boggers and a 2.0 liter in my Zuk......not sure how, but it's doing it!

http://members.cox.net/aftermarket4x4/blackbeater.jpg

Now someone hurry up and test these things out!

http://www.roadlessgear.com/html/newfields/copleteaxle.jpg

Sean (It's still ALL Zuk!!!!!) DeVinney

sean i was waiting to hear from you ! you should call figmo and tell him to send you a pair to try out at next tough truck lol

anybody know what they charge per piece if ya break something? (Birf,inner)? Also is it still 22 spline into birf or 26 now??

scott

I just read thru the link (missed it the first time). These require rear side gears which make them 26 spline, that is a nice upgrade over the stock 22 spline front axles. With that being the case I think there is a market for these. If I had a beater on 35's I would consider this, it's a lot cheaper than doing an axle swap.

I have stock axles,1.3motor,lockrites front and rear,34" ltb's,4.16t-case gears
and beat the shit out of it,have'nt had a problem with anything

I aint never broke a front axle. (All Zuk)
But I am still on 31's.
I will buy some from Figmo cos he is the man. Then I will run 33" or 34" tyres.
But I must first save some spondooliks.
Paul.

I would consider this, it's a lot cheaper than doing an axle swap.

Thank you... Like I said. :rolleyes:

I can guarentee that I'll have almost half that much money in my axle swap with a welded rear and locked front

you can build 26 splines shafts pretty easily from a set of rears, anyone knows the price of just the birfields?

There was one time when I wanted to keep my zuk all zuk stuff.. But if you look samurai axles are made by the same company, just a smaller semi differen't look and style in ways.

Lets see.. my over all swap cost.

$0.00 Toy axles, zero after I sold my aftermarket stock parts.

$100 U-bolt flip kit

$0.00 Drive shafts. Drilled new holes in the toy flanges. Did not use a c/v in the rear, got zero vibes as fast as I can get it.

$20.00 Brake lines/hoses. Front toys bolted up, the rears I bought new hard lines and split them up to work with the samurai dual lines.

$0.00 Steering. I used a toy drivers arm flipped over and welded it on the passenger side like the toy guys have done for years. Used the toyota ti-rod end at the toy end, and samurai adjustable end at the box.
---> $200.00 Now I have Heavy DOM for the ti-rod on the axle with heims but you can get away with the anemic stock one for a while.

$0.00 Gearing and lockers. Welded both diffs, and I lucked out to have 4.38's in the pigs so with 6:1's I'm at 95:1.

$100 Wheels were some alloys I got from a guy. You can find used wheels all day long or spend about $200 for a set of steelies.

$220 is the grand total of bling spent.

I still need to rebuild the knuckles so they don't leak, and rear axles seals. But I have pretty much nothing in it. If your poor you will figure out how to make it work. :evil:

I have since added hydro assist using the kick setup which BTW is working beautifully now.

L8rz

Chris Minerich

I wheel with shadowzuk and his shit works! He is constantly pissing off all these bling bling vender crawlers. I know guys that have spent more money on beefing stock axles than shadow has spent on his toy axles. Shadow has showen me how to build without gay ass vender shit. It rules! Shure you still need some things that you just cant build due to lack of equipment, but its still cheaper than beefed stock axles. I had super beefed stock axles, thay did the job til I started molesting 5+ trails. The key is keep it simple stupid, the less moving parts the less there is to fail on the trail. ARB's and gay ass shit like that is what you really dont need. I have never seen a ARB work as well as a welded diff or spool. Shadow and I are welded front and rear, it works great! Before I met Shadow I was running stupid shit like lockers, then I got tired of him showing me up all the time. :( The point I am getting to is you guys say that a toy axle swap is expensive, but if you would get away from all the vender crap then you would be serprised of what you can do. :smokin: Unless you like being one of those crawlers that I see crying on the trails about how you just cant understand why your truck cant make an obstical because you dumped $10,000 grand in it and it has ARB's. Im sorry to crush all of your bolt-on dreams. :flipoff2:

Jonny Blaze :evil:
P.S. C-YA on the 5+ trails, dont worry I will stop to lend you a hand with your broken axles!

How's your turning radius with both diffs welded?

How's your turning radius with both diffs welded?

I gotta agree, I used to think welded/spooled diffs were the way to go but the turning radius sucks. Maybe if all you do is crawl it's acceptable, but try competing in a hi-speed road course in 4 high, lockers and ARB's have their place.

Welded diffs work pretty good. I wouldn't mind having a selectable locker one of these days. Right now I'm trying to concetrate on getting my half doors mounted, finish my roll cage and bikini top etc. Finishing up all the little fine points before I can complete it into a tim hardy style rig. I know he runs zuk axles but look at all of the custom stuff he has done. I can not stand a welded diff when you can't steer it, but with the hydro assist that is finally working sweet.

For all of you who don't know Johns pretty pissed off at the world. His zuk got stolen by a company in colorado springs. He used to go to school with the guy and he said he would help john build his rig if he bought the materials. Well when it was all said and done John started wheeling with me and we were pretty hard core compared to the guy that built it. The guy that built it is a fairy so to speak. When John would scratch the sliders that he helped build he would just about break down and cry. It's a long story, but imagine a buddy helping you build your rig and then trying to come up with a contract forging your signature, and then not being able to repossess it with the police when he comes and picks it up with a flat bed at 2am in the morning. I still have copys of the contract for those that are interested. After it's all said and done John got screwed through the court system and was only able to get 1500 out of the deal.

Now John has a very sweet 94 samurai super clean EFI that we are going to mollest and I'm showing him how to build it with little to no money. He's my bro and is like a brother. It's funny how we both talk, act, think the same.. He's a cool dude.

Anyways were collecting parts for it and unlike his last one it will be full body and a tim hardy style rig. I love tim hardy and how he has had the same rig unchanged for years. I have another zuk 'The black one' that will be a tube buggy because I got a wild hair up my ass and started cutting it up.. The green rig is my main priority and is getting to a good stopping point.

L8rz Fellaz

:evil: Chris Minerich :evil:

You guys are right, a welded diff cuts down your turning radius on things such as a high-speed course. Thats what I think VW Bugs are for. I have competed with a front welded diff, but it was a rock crawling comp.Since thats what I do is rock crawling then the welded diff is the way to go. I agree that if you are not a hard-core crawler than a welded diff is not the way to go. When I watch Top Ten Truck Challenge (wich I think is pretty gay to begin with) I skip all lame crap and go on to the Mini Rubicon and Tank Trap. The obstical course is for Jeeps and baja bugs. I bet if we were on an obstical course and you were in 4-wheel high with your selectable locker and I was in 2-wheel drive with my welded rear end, I could cut a tighter corner than you. When Shadow and I were in Moab on some sandy fast dirt roads I was in 2-wheel drive and in the tight corners I would gas it and spin the rear end, it turned on a dime. It turned better than my open diff sammy in the corners. A lot of people that wheel rely to much on what their truck has, then they get mad when we spank them on the trail. Use the most advanced piece of equipment, your brain. Think for your self instead of some vender feeding you the so called ultimate product. Back to the crawling, I have never noticed a steering radius loss in the rocks. Every body uses their trucks in different ways, so people build them differently. But then again I thought I was on a rock crawler site, oops my bad. :flipoff2: In that comp I was in, there was a 4' drop I had to go down and at the bottom was a really tight turn. I was one in a hand-full of people that cleared that section with out taking out a cone. I was running the super-mod course with 33" tires and welded diffs. :smokin:
Hail Satan :evil:

Cool dude!! :shaking: , I thought this thread was about the new profields?? I am glad you did so good in your comp with 33's in the super mod course.. I just think if yer only running 33's yotas are not neccecary..period.. Any other info about these new profields..? Anybody gonna be testing um'?


Later, Scott

Having ARB's has given me the ability to test the merits of fully locked axles (like
welded/spooled) versus an open diff, at the flip of a switch. My turning radius is
definitely tighter with open diffs, and thats on rock slab or loose dirt. With both
your rear tires locked together the rear axle is going to try to drive the rig straight
forward instead of allowing it to pivot and follow the front tires. Welding a diff is a
good method to gain traction at a small cost but it does add constant stress to the
drivetrain.Selectable lockers like the ARB are expensive and add complication but they
do allow you to cover all the bases.

Yes, this thread has morphed from Samurai Newfields to Toy axle to ARB's vs Lincoln
Lockers. I hope the Newfields turn out to be a strong product.It would be a good
option for someone wanting to build their Samurai light and narrow.For guys that like
to wheel on quadrunner trails the Toy axles can be a bit too wide.

Cool dude!! :shaking: , I thought this thread was about the new profields?? I am glad you did so good in your comp with 33's in the super mod course.. I just think if yer only running 33's yotas are not neccecary..period.. Any other info about these new profields..? Anybody gonna be testing um'?


Later, Scott
dude I thought this was about newfield. dude :shaking: :shaking: the profields suck really bad with toyota axels hope there better on samurias axles


:barf:

Cool dude!! :shaking: , I thought this thread was about the new profields?? I am glad you did so good in your comp with 33's in the super mod course.. I just think if yer only running 33's yotas are not neccecary..period.. Any other info about these new profields..? Anybody gonna be testing um'?


Later, Scott
dude, im not running 33" tires any more thats why im with yotas.

hey .. until sombody buys and breaks a set of newfields we will never know their limit ..
so who is it gonna be i know I'm gonna have a set next summer

My fawking fault newfields is what i meant.. They seem like some work was put into them.. my question is tho, are they 26 spl into the birf or still 22?

scott

so, anyone bought these and tested them seriously?

My fawking fault newfields is what i meant.. They seem like some work was put into them.. my question is tho, are they 26 spl into the birf or still 22?

scott

Yes, they are 26 spline. I am currently working with Roadless on a group buy. They are willing to work with me on it. If anyone is genuinely interested send me a PM.

I'm running a 1.3 with a 4.89 t-case, 5.38 ring & pinions, lockrights front & rear. press on birfield rings, and 33 10.50 MTs. Even though I carry a full set of spare axles I've never broken one or anything else for that matter. And I've done the Rubicon, Johnson Valley, Parker & Havasu and lots more.

I'm running a 1.3 with a 4.89 t-case, 5.38 ring & pinions, lockrights front & rear. press on birfield rings, and 33 10.50 MTs. Even though I carry a full set of spare axles I've never broken one or anything else for that matter. And I've done the Rubicon, Johnson Valley, Parker & Havasu and lots more.

Drop in a 1.6 16V or a 2.0 liter then add a heavy right foot & you'll see some carnage! Honestly, it's all about staying out of the hard stuff where you stick the left front wheel in a deep crevace between two rocks with most of the vehicles weight on it and KAPOW! you just grenaded a birf, broke an axle or destroyed the birf's inner cage...one of the three typically breaks and hopefully these Newfields are the new HOT TICKET and eliminate the weakest parts of a Zuk front end!

Again, Does anyone actually have a set yet?...................SOMEONE TEST THESE THINGS OUT!!!!!

Sean (I Wanna Break Something!) DeVinney

Thats a bunch of money for a Samurai axle, but for someone that a;ready has invested in some ARBs, steering and some nice rims, what's a little more money if you can keep all of your Zuk parts?

As for busting birfs and axles.. I have Toy axles and blew both berfs in short order. Dropped some Profields in and no more breakage. I also have a set of Longfields, but they are used and sloppy, so they are spares. This all cost more then these Suzuki Newfields, but worth it in my case.

The reality is how often are you busting stock parts now, how do you wheel, and how do you expect to wheel in the future, and how much you got to spend? If you are happy with 33" tires, then you might be able to stay with the Suzuki axles. If you want bigger, you are better off with a bigger axle. But keep in mind that even if you get some bigger axles for free, you are probably going to need to buy gears, lockers, rims, (bigger tires?) brakes, seals, drivelines, steering etc. to get them up to snuff. This all adds up fast.

-Wayne

once i saw a samurai break toyota lj70 front axle with just 30" tyres.
if you don't limit the steer radius, you can break almost any birfield cage, toy included, imho.

about these newfields, i built my own 26 splines axle from a set of stock samurai rears, they have just 22 spline inners and and a stock samurai birfield with a birf ring, but they are still alive after 4 months of pretty much abuse with 31" and a front arb.
these newfields with 26 spline inners and bigger birfs should be bulletproof with 31-33 tyres.