OK...
I gotta 1978 c20 with a 468 in her... new motor... only about 5000 on her... new tranny... th400... love it...
BUT... the starter has gone tits up... so I got a new one and now when I start it it makes a horrid grinding noise... sometimes it starts sometimes it doesnt... the last time I tried it it just spun and I could hear it barely hitting the flywheel...

So i ripped it off... threw the :flipoff2: thing and got a nother one...
I had someone else put this one on... it doesnt do it nearly as bad but it still makes an initial noise on impact then it turn sthe beast and fires up...

2: Where to get a heat shield... damn headers and close to the starter...?

Tks in adcv...

I know there's a simple answer to this...

Simple answer.....You need to shim the starter. Normally starters come with shims and directions for doing this. Check back with your parts store, they should have detailed instructions.....:skull:

Hey Reddog, Ranger is right but now you'll want to check the teeth on the ring gear and make sure you didn't chew them all up. If you want function and don't care about cosmetics, you can make a shield from a coffee can.

Tell me about the coffee can heat shield would ya?

Find a large coffee can and cut it down the seam. Then slide it around the starter for fit. Trim where needed. Atight fit is preferred. I used mechanics wire to fasten it but I'm wondering if there is a stainless hose clamp maade big enough. That would work great. :beer:

IMHO, parts store starters suck. I get more consistent starts with a framing hammer and the factory starter. I know it may hurt, but you will save yourself a lot of headaches if you just sack up and buy a new AC Delco or a high end gear reduction starter.

ok... I put in a new starter...
It started it about 5 times over the last day...
I went to start it a few minutes ago... and grind.... finally started...

Any ideas?

Your ring gear probably has a couple of bad spots on it, worn or broken teeth.
As someone stated above with the coffee can trick, I wouldn't recommend it. Chevy starter solenoids get cooked by the exhaust, causing them to prematurely fail, work intemitently, or you cause hard cranking when the engine is hot.
I have used shields that are supposed protect the solenoid from heat damage. The metal shields don't work, they actually trap heat intensifing the problem.
They best fix for the hot starter deal is to mount an auxiallary start solenoid away from heat sources. Also use a heat blanket that covers the starter and starter solenoid. :skull:

is there a way I can measure for the proper spacer for the starter...

Can I measure somehow between the starter gear and flywheel...?

-Red

Yes there is a way to measure. You have to do it with the starter installed, and the insp cover/plastic guard off. I can't remember the diameter of the wire/drill bit you use, but you attempt to slide the wire inbetween the ring gear teeth and the starter gear. You will have to push the starter gear forward so that it meshes with the ring gear teeth.
Usually the shims come in a package of assorted thicknesses, make sure you get the right shims for the starter application you have. Chevy had different start bolt patterns depending if you have a 12 3/4"153 tooth or 14"168 tooth flywheel/flexplate.
The directions for shimming should be on the package of asst shims. Hopefully!
Maybe someone else here can remember the diameter of the wire/drill bit you must use to check the clearance.:skull:

I have not tried this yet but it sounds reasonable.

From the Sept 01 Four wheeler
Remove the battery + lead from the solinoid, tape it up und move it out of the way.
Either using a remote starter switch or some one in the cab hit the switch and the drive gear will engage but the starter will not run.
Using a straightened paper clip and insert it between the top of the drive gear and the bottom of of the flywheel gear.
try to get the measurement within 30 seconds so that you dn't burn up the solenoid.