Redoing shop walls?

[caseylee]

I acquired a shop from my father a couple of years ago and have been using it for a while now. It's a 30 x 40 wood framed shop with a 16 foot ceiling. The only problem right now is that the thing is covered in fiberglass panels and they are starting to become brittle and falling apart. I am wanting a material to cover the shop in again but do not know what to use. Right now the shop has no insulation and I am wanting to find something that will give it alteast a little. I am thinking of covering the outside in tin or some other sort of metal panels and then covering the inside with foam insulation panels. And probably on the bottom 8 foot of the walls covering that in peg board to have storage hooks and to cut down on welding flash. Is this a very economical way to do this or is there something way better out there? The way the shop is now the fiberglass is the only layer on it which cuts down on where you can hang things.

[jeeplord]

I just did a fire station, steel 4 feet up then Type C 5/8 drywall above that.

C takes abuse incredibly well. If you want to spice it up, install some 5/8 slatboard above your benches to provide a classy way to hand things up.

[threadkiller]

If you install tin on the outside, make sure your walls are perfectly plumb and square. Tin is not forgiving of shoddy carpentry. It's also expensive right now.

If you insulate, you will need to put Tyvek (or any other housewrap) on the outside of your sheathing underneath your tin. The reason is that you will have a dewpoint on the surface of your sheathing, and that will cause rot. The Tyvek allows the condensation at the dewpoint to form on it and NOT the wood sheathing.

[caseylee]

Only problem is right now is that the shop has no wood sheathing. It basically just a frame with fiberglass slapped on it. The guy building it ran out of money because he spent so much on the frame that he just put the cheapest thing he could find on. Would really have to panel in the whole thing before putting on the tin (or whatever I decide on) or can I just attach it straight to the framing???

[frankenfab]

Just do the inside with 5/8" drywall. It's cheap and very fire proof. Take a torch to a scrap piece and try it. You can put a layer of 20 gauge over it near your welding or grinding area to make it more durable. I'd just use a manufactured wood siding on the outside.

[threadkiller]

You can "get away" with putting angled braces in the corners in place of the sheathing, but the condensation will eventually ruin the insulation. Bracing this way requires notching every stud so the brace, usually a 2x4 or 2x6, will sit flush with the surface of the rest of the studs. Does this make sense? It's hard to type what I'm trying to explain.

If you put drywall on the interior walls, you better have that building braced well or the drywall nails/screws will pop out over time.

[GubNi]

Contact a local company that builds those cheap steel buildings and have them give you a quote on insulation and tin. They can probably insulate and install it cheaper than you can buy it.

[Flatfenderman]

I used 5/8 sheet rock covered by corrigated tin 40" up all the way around except for my welding area where it go's to the ceiling..

[Flatfenderman]

.... :d