: roll cage design
Jason M 02-04-2002, 09:35 AM Okay, I am at a point in the overall cage design where I have to make a decision. Is it a good idea to add an additional second main center hoop (the one that goes from one fender well to the other directly behind the front drivers and passengers seats) or not. Will the length of the front cage supports (windshield to center cage hoop) be an issue?? REmember this cage is far from finished. There are a lot of gussetts and supports that are going to be implemented...
Jason M 02-04-2002, 09:38 AM nother view
:D
GloNDark 02-04-2002, 09:39 AM mmmm Pacifico.......:beer:
Looks killer. What are you using to bend it?
Jason M 02-04-2002, 09:43 AM Last one...
Jason M 02-04-2002, 09:44 AM Originally posted by GloNDark
mmmm Pacifico.......:beer:
Looks killer. What are you using to bend it?
JD Squared Model 3
Manual :D
Takes a while but works beautifully...
Mark '73 FJ40 02-04-2002, 10:17 AM that looks super clean :smokin:
The Jerk 02-04-2002, 10:28 AM i like how you followd the body lines in teh back, much like i did, looking good! jiMMy
Jason M 02-04-2002, 10:52 AM So any ideas if I should run another center hoop???
RustyNailJustin 02-04-2002, 11:18 AM Cool looking cage! The best structure for the bar you are refering to would make a slash across the back meening from the bottom pass side to top of driver side the only problem is head room for the driver if its going to be a bell ringer I would go across like you are talking plus if the bar is low you can use it for one of your seat bars if you incorprate the seats into the cage. Little late for this but looks like you are using electra weld tubing? I use it most of the time cause its so much cheeper but it helps to keep the seam on the inside of your bend it makes it less likley to split.
wngrog 02-04-2002, 11:23 AM Looks AWESOME Jason!!!
I really like how you did the rear!! Killer.
I like it without the second hoop. Looks great!
Nolen
fj40guy 02-04-2002, 12:17 PM Uh, looks great.... I hope you never have to use it!
Any reason why you didn't use DOM tubing?
Does anyone have a WILLIAMS LOW BUCK TOOLS notcher?
http://209.238.153.119/notcher.html I like the fast method
of notching, but ouch on the price!:D
Tom :usa:
Jason M 02-04-2002, 12:35 PM I didn't use Dom because it is not that much stronger and is more expensive. Most racing associations do not require the use of dom. Besides, by the time I am done with it there will not be a strength issue :D
US,
It is HREW and most (I screwed up once) of the welds are in the interior of the bend. :D
There are going to be braces behind the seats to strengthen the cage sideways and it will be mounted to the frame in Six places :D
Blue Boar 02-04-2002, 12:45 PM Looks great! How many hours do you think you have into it?
Also what kind of flares do ya got on there?
fj40guy 02-04-2002, 12:48 PM Cool. :cool:
With the HREW, what size did you use? 2" 0.120" Wall? Your arms must love that stuff! :D
I'm getting too old for manual benders. :p Went with JD2 model 4. Made the mistake of thinking "I know where to find cheaper cylinders, hose, etc" Doh! :( Ended up going back to JD2 a few times to get the rest of the stuff. There is something fun about running a hydraulic pump to bend the 2" pipe. :p
Tom :usa:
Jason M 02-04-2002, 01:07 PM Donno, probably about 8 hours or so. I tend to think while I am building and modify it while I am at it. The flares are simple TJ rear flares.
Yeah 2" .120 wall. Should hold up just fine
The Manual bender is not as bad as I thought it would be. Just not all that fast. Just get a cheater bar and work on that upper body strength. Or work on the :beer: muscle and put your weight into it!!!
:D
YellowCruiser 02-04-2002, 05:18 PM I am planning to do something similar...will you be able to use a soft top with yours???
rabid 02-05-2002, 05:05 AM Looks sweet. i also like the design in the back that inboards the rear supports a little. up here the trails are so tight that we are always banging and catching those kickbacks on trees. That design would definately help with that.
I think that another main center hoop may not be a bad idea- that is a long way to the windshield!!
Post more pics when you get it all gussetted!
Jason M 02-05-2002, 07:21 AM The softtop should fit just fine. Although I am not positive that a hard top will fit any more. If it does it will be tight in the rear..
Trees are not that big of a worry here in the dusty Mojave desert. But I see what you mean. I was looking at it last night and it really is not quite as long as the picture implies. So I think will just add a bunch of supports to it and call it good. More headroom :-)
It is designed with the idea that I might remove the back half of my cruiser one day for coilovers and rear steering.
I will be working like a madman on it this weekend so I will keep the updates coming!!!
:D
Very nice! Where did you get your manual bender and how much?
tom
ranger 02-05-2002, 12:09 PM Sweet lookin cage! Looks as though a hardtop would fit, might be close. :skull:
fj40guy 02-05-2002, 01:41 PM Originally posted by trw
Very nice! Where did you get your manual bender and how much?
tom
From the tubing bender store. :flipoff2:
JD Squared (http://www.jd2.com/) is the builder. I had about a four week lead time on my model 4 (hydraulic) bender. Yes, I love this thing in a small shop. It is on rollers, so I can tuck it out of the way most of the time. Oh, at 6'2" & 280# I can use a manual bender just fine... but in 100F texas heat not my idea of fun in the summer. :D
Getting tired of hole saws... that tubing notcher is looking better all the time.
Tom :usa:
RHINO 02-05-2002, 04:55 PM lookin good jason:)
roundrock, i have the notcher you speak of, its nice and fast, but its really a guessing game when it comes to angles. i got it many years ago when it cost $120.
fj40guy 02-05-2002, 06:19 PM Originally posted by RHINO
lookin good jason:)
roundrock, i have the notcher you speak of, its nice and fast, but its really a guessing game when it comes to angles. i got it many years ago when it cost $120.
Yep -- mighty nice looking cage.
Thanks Rhino. I was thinking of making a spring loaded gauge. :idea: As you slide the tube in place, a pointer moves back to give the resulting angle. Mechanical linkage to set the tubing size. I tend to "cut twice", so I like leaving the tubes a little long. Notcher seems like it would speed up my "turtle like" pace. Hmm, pay off the VISA or order a notcher? Now to sell that 3FE to get a nice 250A wire feeder... Hmmm.
Tom :usa:
Jason M 02-06-2002, 09:06 AM Thanks aLthough I do have to say that my Fiancee was there helping me with the tubing bender. And helping me with asome thoughts. Mabye this weekend I can snap some shots of her in action
:D
I am using the JD squared notcher. It seem to work really well on everything unless a bend has to be notched. Then I am left with the chop saw and a grinder :(
Tin Bender 02-06-2002, 09:29 PM :vader2: Damn Jason that looks kill'r...
Keep up the good work!!! I glad the write up help'd:)
(in reply to the weld to the inside)
I've done some more indepth reserch into the "weld to the inside"... I myself have seen seems split, but it was along time ago...5+ years.. I ask'd my steel guy about it, and was told that the weld'n process used has been GREATLY improved over the last several years and in alot of cases the weld is as strong if not stronger than the rest of the tube:eek:
I for one am still old school and take EVERYTHING with a grain of salt (or two).... I'll still hold to my "seam to the inside" just to be safe:D:D:D
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