I'm leaning toward the 7 circuit Painless Wiring fuse block.
For the switched devices, where is the best place to tap into the ignition wire?
Anyone have pictures of the install. Where have you mounted the fuse block?

Also, what local stores sell Painless? Leon Rosser has a good price, but shipping is $10!

I got the 18 circuit Painless in my cruiser. Got it for roughly $300 when all was said and done. However Summit is in Reno and I can drive up and get it. :D Check out their catalog I bet they have the 7 circuit. You may have to call and ask though. :D

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=10591

hmmm, imtresting, i just got the 12 circuit race one from summit(painless) and love it and the looks of it. as for an aditinal fuse block on on my old set up, i used a marine style regular fuse panel, i liek them cuz u run one wire in to power the block and come off the other side with your accories. and its was like 18 bucks from www.westmarine.com anyhow either one is fine i guess! jiMMy

I just got a 8 from NAPA for $12 it should be good for my application maybe stop by there and ck it out befor you drop 3 bills. :rolleyes:

I was out in the TLC's bed room tring to get the final things put together when I reliezed the wiring is SHOT!!!!! I have to basicly rewire the pig!
Is this going to be as hard as I thinks its going to be? Anyone have any advise on haw to do this?
:eek:

Well the 7 circuit is only $45 (+10 for weather resistant). You get 4 switched wires and 3 unswitched. The 12 circuit is for rewiring the entire system.

So how do I wire it up to the battery? Where should I ground it to?

$45 for the fuse block & wire isn't bad at all. Usually I buy wire in 250' spools from Waytek (http://www.waytekwire.com) as I hate the junk sold is most autopart stores.

For the seven fuse block with "HOT" (always on) and "SWITCHED" fuses:

HOT: Stop in the autoparts places and look for the "fusible links". It is nothing more than a small piece of 14 guage wire with non-flammable insulation around. $3, cheap insurance. I usually connect this right off the battery and run to the main power on the fuse block & relay for "switched" power".

Switched power: The terminals in the ignition switch really don't like running high current loads. Use the "accessory on" lead to energize a relay when it is on. Typically this is a LR (Blue with Red) wire off the ignition switch... goes to the fuse box, used for the radio.

Of your seven fuses: What do you plan on using each for? What type of current load? One thing that bugs me about FJ40's is the lack of a horn relay. The contact in the steering wheel is good when new, but after 20+ years has a hard time with the current load. Add a relay... BEEP. Oh, just to get past annual inspection. :D

Tom :usa:

I bought the Painless Wiring 7-circuit (Cirkit Boss) setup last year, but hit a major stumbling block: I cannot find an easily accessible, reasonably protected, *convenient* location for it, it's driving me NUTS! :rasta:

My plan was to re-wire all my accessories and finally get down to tackling the roof-rack wiring harness, but the project stalled, I've gotten to the point where I cannot mount the auxiliary fusebox without fabrication ($$$).

Henry, You have a riv-nut tool right? How about just under the dash, on the bottom of the glovebox? Run the main feed wire to the battery directly through the firewall through a gommet. You could stand on the ground and look and see it with how tall your truck is. If you really want to get trick, mount it in an otter box so that it's totally waterproof - what would also keep it totally try if you went under water. You can get one for like $12 bucks at microcenter - just drill holes and seal them with silicone. Make the door so that it flips down and you can see up in the box...

-Stumbaugh