Lots of research goin down here. Im havin a hell of a time figuring out what to do for my front driveline.
I posted last week on how to tilt the pinion on my chev D60. Ive got that fingered out now I need to see some driveline shots for your rig with a short drivetrain setup eg: 302/435/300 or XXX/435/20 etc
I need to see the relation of the pinion to the output shaft.

Thx

Go here (http://homepage.mac.com/coreydaspit/PhotoAlbum5.html)

I put a few shots in there of my front driveline with a dana 60 front and Atlas II. This is with a 5.0, C6, and an Atlas. It is definitely steep, but with a DS from Jesse, it works very well.

Thanks Jess!

Rock-rod, nice jeep. Do you know what angle your front dline is at ?
Heres a couple pix for you guys to look at.
I thought about clocking my 300 but dont know how low I can go w/o screwing up the oiling.
So far to combat the driveline angle I have moved the axle 2" forward,
dropped the t-case 1/2". And turned the pinion up to almost 30 degrees.
The case is at 25deg (stock for the AA I think) the dline only drops to 25deg which you can see in the pic is about 2" shy of clearing

http://home.earthlink.net/~james2002s/images/clock.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~james2002s/images/dline.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~james2002s/images/output.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~james2002s/images/pinion.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~james2002s/images/pinion2.jpg


Help me ! :confused: :confused: :confused:

Come on fellas this isnt a mines longer than yours. Whip out the knowlege base here.
I know someone out there has a 302/435/20 or 302/465or35/20
What are you doing to combat your driveline angles other than putting in a 60* shaft.

Well is your dana 20 a 10 spline output? or 26 spline and what are the #'s - the diff angle where you want it- and t-case angle and tube slope ? We have some fairly inexpensive 41 degree capable non c/v stuff that may work- if your angle are 60 degree' s then start over its hopeless -Jess

Looks to me like that rig is just too damn tall.

Ed

I think I confused ya. First its only a 3 inch lift on my yota. I think it looks tall cause the Its got a dana 60 hanging on unloaded springs(makes the arch look huge)
Jess its a 23sp 300. left a vm for ya tonight.

Ideally I would like the pinion pointed up at the t-case output.
The pinion angle currently needs to be at 37* to line up with the output shaft though (not sure how safe that is for the pinion bearing).
so the tube needs to be at 37 degrees to be lined up w/ the output yoke
The tcase yoke is pointed up 2* So that would be 39* right ?

But now how many more degrees should I account for. For the driveline under droop conditions. Or is that a factor that is determined by the springs.

well i have a yj with a sbc/465/rockwellt-221 and a dodge front 60 and have no front shaft problem. and the d-train is pushed so far forward that theres about 1/4'' between the front of the motor and the electric fan. thres about 12''of lift in the suspension and the motor/tranny is tight to the body. on the 60 i have a 1410 yoke w u bolts and at the top i have a cv that was factory on the t-221, just a normal 1310, no grinding or anything. either u have way too much lift, or im just lucky. since u have a dana 300, why not upgrade to a 32 spline front output and run a set of 1410. should work out for u

Take a peek, at least I dont think its too much. Its lower than most of my friends yotas. Although looking at it I could give up an 1-1.5" of front lift and deal with it.
I want to do the JB conversions output shaft upgrades but dont have the $$$ yet.

http://home.earthlink.net/~james2002s/images/DSCF0759.jpg

Don't you think this would of made more sense to post in the Toyota section? My suggestion is ditch the dana 20 and go dual toyota cases to get more driveshaft length.

Loppy has a killer setup. 350, T18, D300 with 60/70. He front shaft and rear shaft are the SAME length :D I think he had to do a high angle yolk on the front 60 from Stockton Drive Line Service.

Rock-rod, nice jeep. Do you know what angle your front dline is at ?


It's at 27 degrees static with the weight on the suspension. I have the front axle reigned in a lot with limiting straps so that it can't drop to far and bind the CV. This is temporary until I can find some time to move the front axle forward about 5 inches. Just need to decide on staying with leaves in the front or going coils/4 link.

Your truck is way to tall! Have you tried putting the weight on the suspension and measuring from there? That will sure as hell change a lot of things.

Adding a doubler would really help in your case, it would move the t-case back about 5-7 inches and make a huge difference in the DS angle.

Don't you think this would of made more sense to post in the Toyota section? My suggestion is ditch the dana 20 and go dual toyota cases to get more driveshaft length.

Nope, The reason I posted here is cause I figured lots of jeepers got 302 or 305 swaps with short 4spds and short t-cases that would make for a dificult driveline with a shorter wheelbase. Its got a toy body/frame but pretend its a jeep and its got chevy axles and a 302/np435 and a D300.

Why in the world would I want to build a rig this big and screw it up by using some marginally strong toyota t-cases ? Now im not saying they are weak, just not what Im lookin for.

Well, I just got off the phone with jess. It seems that the reason my angles are messed up is that my drivetrain is tucked into the frame so high. (which simulates alot of lift.
The truck really isnt that high. I have measured with weight on the rig. (see the above pic) But I wanted to measure w/no load also to simulate a mild bind condition.

Anyway ill lower the engine/tranny/tcase and see what I come up with.
Ill keep ya posted

Nope, The reason I posted here is cause I figured lots of jeepers got 302 or 305 swaps with short 4spds and short t-cases that would make for a dificult driveline with a shorter wheelbase. Its got a toy body/frame but pretend its a jeep and its got chevy axles and a 302/np435 and a D300.

Why in the world would I want to build a rig this big and screw it up by using some marginally strong toyota t-cases ? Now im not saying they are weak, just not what Im lookin for.

well on that note why run a margenally strong dana 20? Unless your saving for an atlas. Also check out another thread in the jeep section for dana 20 clocking ring, you could clock the front output down a couple inches and leave the rest of the driveline alone.

My shaft is at 18*, and only 26" long. It binds on droop, just like Jess told me it would, lol. BUT, thats not the real big deal, when climbing plus axle wrap is when I kill the u-joint u-bolts.

You guys its not a 20 its a 300 and im gonna do the jb 4:1's and front and rear 32spl.
Im gonna try and lower the motor combo around 2" and mabe clock the 300 down a bit if nessecary but I think that alone may cut it ?

I'd review the cost of the 300 + 4:1's and 32 splines vs an atlas. If you find someone that will give you a good price on the Atlas, I bet it won't be that far away. If you need a contact, let me know. I can arrange a good price for you.

Secondly, I have a 350/SM420/Atlas in a CJ5 with 60's front and rear. I sloped the engine/tranny/tcase down in the rear to make my rear shaft how i wanted it. I ran a 1410 CV and 1410 on the 60 to get the angles to work in the front. Its $ but handles the angles and is strong as hell.

pigpen62, you got any pix of that ?
I did look at the cost variable. Its gonna run around 1100 to convert the D300.
I dont think I could touch that for the atlas ?
So what makes the 1410's flex better ?